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Karter16

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Everything posted by Karter16

  1. Karter16

    Thanks BMW AG!

    So this arrived today from BMW AG. Goes nicely with my collection!
  2. Karter16

    Assorted M3 / M5 Parts

    Is that M logo in the bubble wrap for an E46 M3? I can't quite see through the bubble wrap. If so is it genuine?
  3. Nice man! welcome! - will keep an eye out for you when I'm out and about :-)
  4. Karter16

    e46 M3 brake rotors

    I'm pretty sure that the front rotor size is different between the USA (non-ZCP) and Euro spec M3's. Might be worth checking at least :-)
  5. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    yeah they've got that behind the rear headrests, but not for the front.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNHViIgmQo0
  6. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    How you see them in the photo is how they are normally. The vert has no B pillar to mount the front seatbelts on, so the driver and passenger seat are reinforced and the seatbelt is mounted there next to the headrest.
  7. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    That's the Roll Over Protection System/seatbelt mounts that verts come with.
  8. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Mine were almost toast at 140k (only put a couple of thousand k on it after buying and before doing the bearings). Mine is an '05 so wasn't part of the recall/preventative action/whatever BMW call it. That's only my experience and I don't know for sure how the owners before me treated the car - lots of other people seem to get more mileage out of them, but going forward I'll be playing it safe and replacing maybe every 80k-100k (If I ever put that many k's on the car!!) Hope my entirely subjective and non-statistically significant opinion is helpful!
  9. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    I think Neal was suggesting that Brent does an oil sample. I don't think there'd be much point in you doing one now - you know the rod is spun and that you've got work to do. Oil sample would more be an indicator of likely bearing wear for someone who was trying to tell how worn their bearings were without looking at them. (also FWIW a single oil analysis isn't so helpful, it's more a series of them that can show a trend (e.g. more lead/more copper over time)). Good luck with getting your car sorted, sounds like you probably have a bit of work ahead to ascertain the condition of the rod, crankshaft, etc.
  10. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Today I looked at it and thought to myself that it desperately needs a wash. Our 6 month old has been in and out of hospital a lot since birth so understandably attention for the BMW has been minimal. When I find time it'll be getting a good clean and an oil and filter change as coming up about 1800km since the rod-bearings replacement (the car not the baby).
  11. Karter16

    If rego has lapsed... costs to re-reg?

    So as I understand it, if the rego has lapsed for more than 12 months NZTA cancel the registration and chase the owner for payment of the registration fees. So you'd be looking at the cost of reregistering (http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/licensing-rego/vehicle-fees/registration-fees/). I would think you'd also want to establish whether the previous owner had paid up to NZTA for the registration for the first 12 months it was lapsed. If not then you're probably up for that as well.
  12. Karter16

    Where is "MPOWR"?

    I'm afraid I can't help, but good luck. I'm trying to track down the history on mine as well :-)
  13. Karter16

    New member New Plymouth

    Nice one - I live in Greenhithe, so that view is very familiar to me!
  14. Karter16

    New member New Plymouth

    Very nice! The background in that second picture looks familiar ;-) - Did you get the car in Auckland?
  15. Karter16

    Official Tools for Hire Thread

    Hi all, If anyone is interested I can provide paper templates for those who want to manufacture their own E46 M3 RACP reinforcement plates. The plates and process are as per this thread: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/57571-karter-16s-e46-m3-journal/ The templates come with the expectation that final adjustments will be needed for fitting. The individual pieces of the plates need to be welded together. Some pieces can be folded. The plates were designed with the intent of epoxy affixing to the RACP using 3M 7333 Epoxy. The plates come with zero warranty/guarantee, however I have reasonably high standards and I fitted these to my car. I am aware that RACP plates only solve part of the problem (and indeed might cause new ones), something which everyone should be aware of before they do anything to their RACP. I fitted these plates as a part solution. I am using the BMW structural epoxy to reinforce the front mount points as well (rear points already done under BMW corrective action in my case). I am not tracking my car, and I'm not rough on it. If you are looking for a super solution you should look at a Mason bar and/or other such more comprehensive solutions. These plates require DIY skills, welding skills, etc. but are offered as they will help others save time if they are wanting to go down the DIY route. No charge - happy to copy the paper templates and post within NZ for free. Cheers, Matt
  16. Karter16

    e46 v8 wagon

    How's everything going? Any updates?
  17. Karter16

    Newbie

    Or New Vegas?
  18. Haha I was waiting for someone to say this :-) Yeah I said what I said knowing that it doesn't hold true for all his points. It was more directed at the comments around the likes of the S54's rod bearings, etc. I was just making the point that a performance engine means more maintenance. As you say there's also examples of poor engineering and cost cutting. (and also marketing al la "lifetime fluids" etc.). So while I agree that BMW have had their share of issues, I'm not sure that I'd go as far as saying "BMW Engines Are Gigantic Pieces Of Sh*t". I guess it does come back to the spectrum. In my case I have the performance of the S54, and the high maintenance costs to go with it, which I'm happy to pay for the performance I get. If I'd bought an N42 equipped car expecting something at the Toyota end of the spectrum, and I ended up paying maintenance costs in line with an S54 then I'd be pretty hacked off. TL;DR - totally get where you're coming from.
  19. So on 1 end of the spectrum you have a Toyota Hilux, which as Top Gear "proved" a while back you can pretty much blow up and it'll still run. And on the other end of the spectrum you have a Formula 1 car which needs an engine rebuild every race (or more frequently sometimes). There's also a performance difference between the Hilux and the F1 car..... Basically you choose where you sit on that spectrum. Once you've chosen where you sit, you need to make sure that you perform the maintenance necessary for your chosen location on said spectrum. If you don't you're going to have a bad time.
  20. Karter16

    Model pros and cons

    E46 318i (my first car) Pros Economical. Great handling. Cons 0 - 100: yes. Sadly not worth spending money on to maintain. E46 M3 Pros Everything the 318i is and everything the 318i is lacking. Many fast. Much performance. Best car ever. Cons Subframe needs much love. Vanos needs much love. Rod bearings need much love. It would be more economical to buy petrol and set fire to it in a pit. Much performance = much maintenance costs. Will suck all of your money because you love it so much. (this is also a "pro"). Basically the E46 on the face of it has a whole bunch of cons, but that's what makes you love it so much. It's the most E46 an E46 can be. Handling is amazing. Driving experience is amazing. If it was just a standard performance car it would be boring. It's right on the edge of engineering and design and that's what makes it fun.
  21. Karter16

    Euro Plates

    What would make me happy is if kiwiplates let you design your own side panels for their Euro plates. I'd happily pay $369 to get euro plates with my own graphics in the side panels. I just don't like their standard options...
  22. Karter16

    New Member

    Welcome!! Love the E34 - looks great in white. What other BMW’s have you owned?
  23. Karter16

    Newbie from Wellywood

    Welcome Brian - nice car! Do you have any plans for it at this point. Anything you're wanting to do to it?
  24. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    Picked these up recently to add to the collection :-)
  25. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    Hey guys, I've recently started a build journal on a US site (m3forum.net). I thought I might as well replicate it here as well. Some of the content is written for a US audience (miles vs km, LHD vs RHD, etc) so feel free to ignore those bits. I'll update here as I update on m3forum. So having owned my M3 for a year last week, and given I'm embarking on some significant work over the next month, I though it was about time I started a build thread. I got the car in December 2015. I first seriously looked at buying an M3 in 2008, I decided (wisely) to pay off my student loan, etc. first. I then ended up getting married in 2012, and spending some time & money on travel with my wife. In 2015 I was finally ready to start thinking about an M3 again. For a number of weeks in August and September I had my eye half-seriously on a 2005 Silver Grey SMG model for sale in my home city (living in New Zealand there's not a huge number of E46 M3's on sale (between 5 and 8 at any one time). I still wasn't really sure if I was ready to buy one or not. Then one day it was sold, and I realised then how much I actually wanted it... I thought that was it and prepared myself to wait until the next one that met my requirements came along. Then, a few weeks later the same car was back on the market. It had actually just been traded between dealers. In the mean time the second dealer had done some work on it (to make it more attractive for sale presumably). New wing mirror glass on both sides to replace the damaged ones on it. All trim parts on the centre console replaced - looked like new. New OE brake rotors fitted on the front. That weekend I went to have a look at it. It was in much better shape that I was expecting. The exterior wasn't perfect, which I was expecting from what others who had looked at it had said. But the interior was in really great condition. More importantly the mechanics of the car seemed to be solid. The car had had the subframe strengthened by BMW NZ, had been serviced at a reputable BMW dealer, and had had things like the RTAB's done a few years previously, which was an indication that the previous owner/s had been taking at least some care of the car. To make a short story even shorter, I ended up making an offer on the car, and I took it home 3 days before Christmas. It ticked pretty much all the boxes for me. I was looking for: A later manufacturing year (2005/2006). SMG (yep I know, but I'm an engineer, SMG is cool, its a differentiator, and I really wanted it). Silvergrey or LSB Sunroof 19in Style 67s I bought it knowing that quite possibly it would need the VANOS done (which indeed it did), but that didn't really bother me. My intent in buying this car was to work on it, maintain it, and make it better than the day I bought it. I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and its an opportunity to learn and develop my mechanics skills as I go. I'm lucky in that regard in that I have my dad to help me. When he was about my age he owned and restored a Daimler SP250, so I'm not exactly on my own on this. A couple of months after I bought the car I ordered the parts to do the Beisan VANOS rebuild, did the full rebuild, new exhaust disc (existing hub tabs are 100% good), timing chain tensioner, cam bolts, etc. It was a great first project, we spread the work over two days, took our time, and the end result was perfect. All the rattle was gone, and the engine sounded smooth. Over the New Zealand winter I didn't get any major work done. did new belts, pulleys and tensioners, and replaced the crank case ventilation separator, but not much else. Which leads into the present day The summer project is a full suspension & bushings rebuild, cleaning up the underside of the car, cleaning, painting, etc. The aim is that the underside of the car will be as close to "like new" as is realistically possible. For me that means: Replace parts that wear Clean everything else up Seal and paint where appropriate to protect In New Zealand we don't salt our roads in winter (mostly cause it doesn't get cold enough) so the car is in pretty reasonable condition (more dirt and grime than rush), but if you're under there you might as well do it right hey! A couple of weeks ago I ordered Koni yellows to replace the stock shocks, as well as about 60 different part numbers for pretty much anything on the underside of the car that looked like it would wear out. Today Dad and I spent the afternoon getting the car up to working height on jacks (oh for a lift). Over the next few weeks we'll be dismantling, replacing/restoring and rebuilding. I'll be updating here as we go along. Hopefully in a few weeks time the car will be back on the ground and good to go for another 150,000 km :-) For now I'll end with a pic of the car up on jacks.
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