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Everything posted by Karter16

  1. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    Hey guys, I've recently started a build journal on a US site (m3forum.net). I thought I might as well replicate it here as well. Some of the content is written for a US audience (miles vs km, LHD vs RHD, etc) so feel free to ignore those bits. I'll update here as I update on m3forum. So having owned my M3 for a year last week, and given I'm embarking on some significant work over the next month, I though it was about time I started a build thread. I got the car in December 2015. I first seriously looked at buying an M3 in 2008, I decided (wisely) to pay off my student loan, etc. first. I then ended up getting married in 2012, and spending some time & money on travel with my wife. In 2015 I was finally ready to start thinking about an M3 again. For a number of weeks in August and September I had my eye half-seriously on a 2005 Silver Grey SMG model for sale in my home city (living in New Zealand there's not a huge number of E46 M3's on sale (between 5 and 8 at any one time). I still wasn't really sure if I was ready to buy one or not. Then one day it was sold, and I realised then how much I actually wanted it... I thought that was it and prepared myself to wait until the next one that met my requirements came along. Then, a few weeks later the same car was back on the market. It had actually just been traded between dealers. In the mean time the second dealer had done some work on it (to make it more attractive for sale presumably). New wing mirror glass on both sides to replace the damaged ones on it. All trim parts on the centre console replaced - looked like new. New OE brake rotors fitted on the front. That weekend I went to have a look at it. It was in much better shape that I was expecting. The exterior wasn't perfect, which I was expecting from what others who had looked at it had said. But the interior was in really great condition. More importantly the mechanics of the car seemed to be solid. The car had had the subframe strengthened by BMW NZ, had been serviced at a reputable BMW dealer, and had had things like the RTAB's done a few years previously, which was an indication that the previous owner/s had been taking at least some care of the car. To make a short story even shorter, I ended up making an offer on the car, and I took it home 3 days before Christmas. It ticked pretty much all the boxes for me. I was looking for: A later manufacturing year (2005/2006). SMG (yep I know, but I'm an engineer, SMG is cool, its a differentiator, and I really wanted it). Silvergrey or LSB Sunroof 19in Style 67s I bought it knowing that quite possibly it would need the VANOS done (which indeed it did), but that didn't really bother me. My intent in buying this car was to work on it, maintain it, and make it better than the day I bought it. I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and its an opportunity to learn and develop my mechanics skills as I go. I'm lucky in that regard in that I have my dad to help me. When he was about my age he owned and restored a Daimler SP250, so I'm not exactly on my own on this. A couple of months after I bought the car I ordered the parts to do the Beisan VANOS rebuild, did the full rebuild, new exhaust disc (existing hub tabs are 100% good), timing chain tensioner, cam bolts, etc. It was a great first project, we spread the work over two days, took our time, and the end result was perfect. All the rattle was gone, and the engine sounded smooth. Over the New Zealand winter I didn't get any major work done. did new belts, pulleys and tensioners, and replaced the crank case ventilation separator, but not much else. Which leads into the present day The summer project is a full suspension & bushings rebuild, cleaning up the underside of the car, cleaning, painting, etc. The aim is that the underside of the car will be as close to "like new" as is realistically possible. For me that means: Replace parts that wear Clean everything else up Seal and paint where appropriate to protect In New Zealand we don't salt our roads in winter (mostly cause it doesn't get cold enough) so the car is in pretty reasonable condition (more dirt and grime than rush), but if you're under there you might as well do it right hey! A couple of weeks ago I ordered Koni yellows to replace the stock shocks, as well as about 60 different part numbers for pretty much anything on the underside of the car that looked like it would wear out. Today Dad and I spent the afternoon getting the car up to working height on jacks (oh for a lift). Over the next few weeks we'll be dismantling, replacing/restoring and rebuilding. I'll be updating here as we go along. Hopefully in a few weeks time the car will be back on the ground and good to go for another 150,000 km :-) For now I'll end with a pic of the car up on jacks.
  2. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    I haven't actually tested that yet, but next time I drive the car I'll do an assessment and report back.
  3. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    Update #22 So now that we're in our own house and we have a garage it meant that I was able to remove the tints from the car. I've been keen to get rid of them for some time for a couple reasons: I'm trying to get the car as stock as possible, and the tints give it a different look. I almost knocked someone over reversing down my parents driveway in the dark - couldn't see ANYTHING out the back window so was relying on wing mirrors (with the front windows down). But I've held off doing it while the car has been outside as the tints provide excellent sun protection. Now that the car is safely garaged I was able to remove the tints. I read up a bit on the process first and used a clothes steamer to heat the tint. The idea being that the sticky stays with the sheet of tint rather than remaining on the window. I have to say it worked amazingly well. I removed the tints on the driver and passenger windows, the rear quarter panels and the rear window all in the space of an hour and a half. I think the fact they were quality tints was helpful when it came to removal as well as the sticky stayed where it should - basically no residue left on the windows at all. When I got to the rear window I thought my cunning plan had come unstuck, as a thick layer of sticky was left behind. Turns out the sticky wasn't left on the glass, it was left on the clear sheet of the SECOND layer of tint that was on the rear window... No wonder I couldn't see anything at night. Some muppet had tinted over an already tinted window 🤣. More steam, and lifting up the remaining sheet and it all came off beautifully. No damage to the heater/aerial strips and no residue left behind 👍 I'm really happy with the end result. The car looks awesome - I much prefer the look of it without tints. I'll get some photos up as soon as it's a decent day and I can get some good pictures.
  4. Karter16

    e46 v8 wagon

    Looking good - really enjoying following your progress! keep it up!
  5. Karter16

    Deja Vu - NZ Health System

    I full agree with your advice @M3_Power it’s so important to keep pressing, especially if you feel that you’re not being taken seriously. With my son we were fortunate that he presented with some very clear symptoms that meant the escalation path was clear (weird to be using the word “fortunate” to describe that experience). 12 hours later he was under the Gastro team at Starship, who have been absolutely incredible. The nurses and doctors at Starship are fantastic and have supported us through long months of admissions. Its an absolutely horrible experience when your child is sick with a disease/condition and there’s really very little you can do to make it better, and I can’t imagine what it must be like to be fighting to be taken seriously at the same time... I wish you and your family all the best in the journey ahead. It’s a very hard road that, despite best intentions, people can’t fully appreciate if they haven’t travelled a similar path...
  6. Karter16

    BMW Running cost

    I don’t even want to think about totaling what I’ve spent so far😂
  7. Karter16

    Life is choice bro thread.

    Just bought a second hand E46 M3 muffler for $8. 😍 I don't really need another one, but for $8 I couldn't come up with a reason to not get it!
  8. Karter16

    Karter 16's E46 M3 Journal

    Update #21 Been meaning to post an update for a while, but have kept putting it off.. In August last year my son was born, at two and a half weeks old he was rushed to Starship and after a week of tests was diagnosed with a rare genetic condition. As a result of the condition he has liver disease and we've spent the last year in and out of Starship (more in than out for most of the year). Its been pretty hard on my wife and I, several times in the last year things have looked pretty grim, the last couple of months have been a bit quieter and we're hoping that that continues for a while. Progress on the car has obviously been non-existent as a result. I haven't had much opportunity to drive it (apart from some trips to and from hospital), it's ticked over about 2000km since I did the rod bearings. I dropped by Auckland City BMW a couple of weekends ago and picked up oil and filter ready for a change. I'll post here when I do. Excitingly though we're in the process of buying a house (cause we haven't had enough excitement for the year), which means that the car will hopefully be garaged in the near future (hooray!). Which means that I can start getting onto the cosmetic side of things, which I've been intentionally ignoring while the car was somewhat exposed to the elements. I haven't planned in detail, but a rough list of things to do are (no particular order other than mechanical being higher priority than cosmetic): Structural Foam in front RACP mounts. Mechanical fan replacement. Water pump replacement. Attempt to get to and clean the ICV without breaking the little clip on the SMG reservoir. Remove the additional trailer connector wiring in the boot. Replace the plastic bits on the bonnet and the plastic weatherstrip at the bottom of the windscreen. Replace the side indicator enclosures with new ones that aren't UV damaged. Replace the weather trim on the B Pillar exteriors. Re-align driver's side door. Re-align and plastic weld front bumper. Re-align and plastic weld rear bumper where it's been attacked to make e-bay diffuser fit. Replace said e-bay diffuser with OE. Remove window tinting now that the car will be garaged (looking forward to being able to see when reversing at night). Inspect the underbody restoration work done a year ago and make sure all is well. Hopefully its not so long to the next update!
  9. Karter16

    First-Time Euro Owner (text heavy)

    Unless it's changed recently I think that BMW's response will be that if the cracks are less than 20mm (from memory) they advise welding repair and foam in the rear mounts if not already done (foam after welding, unless you want everything to be on fire 🔥), and if the cracks are more than 20mm I believe the official advice is a replacement RACP.... Will definitely provide an update here (http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/57571-karter-16s-e46-m3-journal/) when I do the foam on the front mounts - and sure, provided it's successful I'd be happy to pass on what I've learned! Remember as well that although it's definitely something to be aware of and keep an eye on it shouldn't take away the enjoyment of the car in the mean time! The real danger is not knowing/assuming it's not a problem!!
  10. Karter16

    LSB E46 M3!!!!!

    Ha - I looked at buying this car in 2008 at which point it had about 140k on it from memory. Fortunately I decided to wait and pay off my student loan instead. Glad I did, not sure I was mature enough for a powerful car and the need for lots of proactive maintenance!
  11. Karter16

    First-Time Euro Owner (text heavy)

    Yeah the RACP/subframe is definitely worth reinforcing. Also it's worth noting that unless the shop removed/dropped the subframe to inspect the RACP mounts it's still possible that you've got some cracking that isn't visible yet (like mine had). In terms of reinforcement, there are different views, the prevailing view when I did mine 18 months ago was that the only way to really solve the issue was to move the load away from the RACP mounts and spot welds. The advice at that time was to use a "bar" approach to redirect the load, and I'd almost certainly have gone this route if I was tracking my car. As it is I'm not pushing my car to the limits and I decided to go down the route of a combination of epoxied plates and structural foam. My car had had the structural foam injected into the rear points by BMW as part of the corrective action. My rear points have zero cracking in them as of ~150k. The front points had some reasonably minor cracking (one of which someone had attempted to repair previously). We drilled and welded the cracks and then epoxied reinforcement plates on all 4 mounts. I'll also be foaming the front two points (as soon as my 11 month old stays out of starship long enough). Couple of general observations from my research. There seem to be very few cases of cracks appearing after the structural foam has been applied. There is a lot of debate around welding/epoxying plates, I opted for epoxy to ensure an even spread of load across the surface, rather than only around the weld edges. (it's worth noting that you can't weld after you've epoxied unless you want to risk setting fire to everything). The bar approach (e.g. Mason Bar, Vince Bar, CMP Bar) that redirects load appears to be a very good solution, although it's more intrusive in terms of installation. No one has the definitive answer as to what's best, as a lot of the newer methods haven't been around long enough to fully prove. There are definitely cases where welded reinforcement plates have failed/resulted in more cracks. It's worth being realistic about how bullet proof you need to make it. I can't recommend where to go to get this stuff done as I did mine myself. I would think that the indy shops generally recommended here would be able to help, but happy to give you any other detail/info from my experiences if it's useful at any stage.
  12. Karter16

    First-Time Euro Owner (text heavy)

    Very nice - saw this when it was advertised - hope you have a long and happy ownership!
  13. Karter16

    Thanks BMW AG!

    So this arrived today from BMW AG. Goes nicely with my collection!
  14. Karter16

    Assorted M3 / M5 Parts

    Is that M logo in the bubble wrap for an E46 M3? I can't quite see through the bubble wrap. If so is it genuine?
  15. Nice man! welcome! - will keep an eye out for you when I'm out and about :-)
  16. Karter16

    e46 M3 brake rotors

    I'm pretty sure that the front rotor size is different between the USA (non-ZCP) and Euro spec M3's. Might be worth checking at least :-)
  17. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    yeah they've got that behind the rear headrests, but not for the front.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNHViIgmQo0
  18. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    How you see them in the photo is how they are normally. The vert has no B pillar to mount the front seatbelts on, so the driver and passenger seat are reinforced and the seatbelt is mounted there next to the headrest.
  19. Karter16

    BMW E46 M3 convertible parts car

    That's the Roll Over Protection System/seatbelt mounts that verts come with.
  20. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Mine were almost toast at 140k (only put a couple of thousand k on it after buying and before doing the bearings). Mine is an '05 so wasn't part of the recall/preventative action/whatever BMW call it. That's only my experience and I don't know for sure how the owners before me treated the car - lots of other people seem to get more mileage out of them, but going forward I'll be playing it safe and replacing maybe every 80k-100k (If I ever put that many k's on the car!!) Hope my entirely subjective and non-statistically significant opinion is helpful!
  21. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    I think Neal was suggesting that Brent does an oil sample. I don't think there'd be much point in you doing one now - you know the rod is spun and that you've got work to do. Oil sample would more be an indicator of likely bearing wear for someone who was trying to tell how worn their bearings were without looking at them. (also FWIW a single oil analysis isn't so helpful, it's more a series of them that can show a trend (e.g. more lead/more copper over time)). Good luck with getting your car sorted, sounds like you probably have a bit of work ahead to ascertain the condition of the rod, crankshaft, etc.
  22. Karter16

    What'd you do to your BMW today?

    Today I looked at it and thought to myself that it desperately needs a wash. Our 6 month old has been in and out of hospital a lot since birth so understandably attention for the BMW has been minimal. When I find time it'll be getting a good clean and an oil and filter change as coming up about 1800km since the rod-bearings replacement (the car not the baby).
  23. Karter16

    If rego has lapsed... costs to re-reg?

    So as I understand it, if the rego has lapsed for more than 12 months NZTA cancel the registration and chase the owner for payment of the registration fees. So you'd be looking at the cost of reregistering (http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/licensing-rego/vehicle-fees/registration-fees/). I would think you'd also want to establish whether the previous owner had paid up to NZTA for the registration for the first 12 months it was lapsed. If not then you're probably up for that as well.
  24. Karter16

    Where is "MPOWR"?

    I'm afraid I can't help, but good luck. I'm trying to track down the history on mine as well :-)
  25. Karter16

    New member New Plymouth

    Nice one - I live in Greenhithe, so that view is very familiar to me!