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Found 7 results

  1. I have a full e28 M30 manual conversion which will be available in about 4-6 weeks. Included are the following parts: E34 M30B35 Getrag 260/6 gearbox - does not have holes for the e28 sensors, the but the spaces in the casing are there, the holes just need to be drilled. Includes crossmember for mounting and mounts. E28 manual pedal box with master cylinder, bottle, clutch line. Single mass flywheel with almost new clutch. Matching driveshaft for E28 fitment. This is a full manual conversion kit for E28s, if I missed any parts in the list they will be included, or specified otherwise. This setup was in my car and running without issue. One lady owner, never thrashed. $2200 or make me an offer. I may sell parts individually depending on interest and what is offered. This will all be available in about 4-6 weeks time. More detailed photos will come around then if a sale is not confirmed. Pickup from Onehunga. Can post if buyer arranged shipping.
  2. anything considered for the right price & yep see the few that are on the Tard Obv ideal would like a 540i one Near Dannevirke or Palmerston North but not too fussy at this stag
  3. Looking for front and rear bumpers for E28. Minimal rust but chrome doesn't have to be perfect. I do realise these will be 30 years old so not asking for perfect condition, but they need to be usable. Preferably in Auckland.
  4. E28 black center console for AC cars. Heater knob fell off the heater panel and I lost it, but otherwise in good condition. Willing to sell top half and bottom half seperate for $50 each otherwise whole thing for $80. No carpet piece on bottom half. Offers considered. Pickup from Panmure which I'd prefer, but shipping can be arranged.
  5. I am having a starting issue with the M30B35 in my E28. I'll start from the beginning so that all the details are here. When the motor was in the E34, the fuel pump was jumped between the ignition 12v pin and the pump power wire to get it to work. I tried a relay (which was unknown condition) to see if it would work but it did not. The car also developed a very bad miss just before I pulled the motor out until the day I drove it to the place I was working at to pull the motor out. What would happen is the car would start ok but missed and backfired under throttle, the more you pressed the worse it was. It was driveable cold but got worse as it warmed up and became pretty much undriveable when warmed up. The day I was driving to pull the motor, it stalled on me a block from the place. I tried to start it but it wouldn't fire and the battery went completely flat. So we towed it. Once there, I jump started it to see if it would start and it started a bit rough, then came to life and ran perfectly. Drove it up and down the road a bit and it ran without a single issue. So I took it inside and pulled the motor. Once the engine was in my E28, when we first started it, it ran rough like it did in the E34 when it was missing. I fiddle around a bit, left it for a day with the battery disconnected and then the next day it started up fine. Ever since then the car was running fine, except for a slight miss at low revs, until I pulled my gearbox off to change the clutch. When I put it back on, it did the same thing. It ran rough and missed, so I let is sit for a couple hours with the battery disconnected. What do you know, started up and ran perfectly fine. Last weekend I decided to swap the loom and DME to see if it would solve the fuel relay issue and other issues like the ICV not working at all. It gets 12v to all 3 pins with ignition on. The fuel pump relay gets 12v to all pins when key is in except ground which is grounded, yet the relay (tried 2, one was definitely good) does not work. Anyway, so I swapped the loom and DME, turned ignition on. ICV buzzed as it should. Then I tried to start the car. Nothing. It cranks but will not fire. I triple checked everything and even tried my old ECU, still nothing. ICV no longer buzzes but gets 12v at all pins. Grounds test at 12v, however the coil only gets 9v. I ran a relay for it to test but that only gave it 10v, even though the power wire was a completely new one. Also tried different coil, still nothing. Took my crank sensor out and tested it on my friend's M30 and it worked perfectly fine on his car. All issues the same as with old loom. So I swapped my old loom back on and still have the same issues and won't start. It am 99% sure the DMEs are fine, will test on another car to be 100%. Is there anything else that could cause the car to not fire? One other issue I've had since the car had an auto on the 2.7 is that it won't turn over on the key occasionally, especially when the engine is hot. But this could be bypassed by starting it through the diagnostic port, which worked every time on both the old motor and this motor. I tested today and the starter trigger wire only gets 6v when the motor won't turn, but gets 11.9v when it does. I know this issue is unrelated however I don't know if maybe because of this something is not getting a signal and therefore not starting. But it seems odd that all of a sudden there is a problem. Sorry for the long description but I felt that the details could be necessary. TL;DR: Engine always had some odd wiring issues but ran, swapped harnesses and DME and car wouldn't start. Swapped back to old harness and still won't start. I semi-admit defeat and would appreciate help.
  6. I'm parting out a 535ise 1989. The car is manual however all mechanical parts including brakes I am keeping for my e28 conversion. H&R lowering springs with Bilstein shocks. Springs for sale, might sell shocks depending on the offer. 3.45 open medium case diff. Wheels are TSW 17x8 with 235/45 Bridgestone Potenzas all round with lots of tread. One center cap is missing. Pretty much zero curbing, only very light grazes on two of them, and hardly that. One of the two is in the photo. $600. SOLD Please ask for price for all other parts (If this is in accordance with forum rules). All engine/drivetrain parts I don't need will be for sale once my e28 is running. Windscreen is cracked and seat fabric is starting to break apart, especially on the rear. Still comfy as though, haha. Parts pickup from Penrose, Auckland. Parts will be available from this weekend.
  7. I recently picked up an 88 535i manual. It's pretty rough (actually it's a POS), but for the price I paid the mechanical parts are good (running engine, 5 speed and an LSD). It has been painted matt black, put on some 18" wheels, tinted and probably lowered (I assume stock m sport suspension isn't this low). Has no wof and the reg is on hold. Mechanical: Working LSD, not welded. I jacked up the back and span one wheel and the other side span the same way. gearbox seems ok, haven't tested 4th or 5th as I don't want to take it on the open road with no wof and reg (and other reasons) Minor exhaust leak (was major). Exhaust missing some hangers and needs to be resealed. Red springs? Most of the suspension bushings look like they need replacing. I can wobble one of the arm things about a lot. 4 18" wheels (the tyres on the rear and been burnt out (?) to the sidewalls), 1 16" basket weave Engine: Runs Leaks oil from the front somewhere, I think it might be the sump gasket as the sump looks fine. Haven't been able to get under it yet for a proper look. Possible blown headgasket, lots of smoke out the exhaust and some coolant has gone from the tank (and it's not on the ground ). Or a cracked head... Needs a valve adjustment Was misfiring until I changed the plugs (3 were blackened), might still be running a bit rich Not sure on the timing chain as the the rockers (something is anyway) are too loud. 160000 miles Massive tear in intake boot after the filter Radiator cable tied on General condition: Window, sunroof and door seals need attention or replacement Big chip in the windscreen Leaks... Water in the boot and under back seat. Drivers floor super squishy and has completely ruined carpet Leather seats in pretty good condition. The rest of the interior is pretty terrible. Working OBC No stereo equipment at all mtech gearknob and steering wheel Sagging headliner Drivers door can't be locked from outside, but it locks all the other doors Electric sunroof works for the most part There is some rust under the back seat and in the boot, I think there is also some underneath So, should I fix it or part it (and take bits for the e28 )? I'll post some pictures and a video later Carjam: https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=fmg819 Intermediate pictures: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=937995789