kerrynzl

I've just got back from overseas, so it is now time to get my ass into gear and finish my toy.

I am installing a 3.0 litre non-vanos M50 into my coupe

[ thats right, it is made up out of the best bits from various Beemers ]

So I will have a spare M50B20 lying around complete with DME and Loom etc [ these engines are now worthless ]

I am wanting to buy a Tidy E36 320 or an E34 520 that has a 'goosed' engine, so I can put together a spare car for my girlfriend.

I don't want anything that has been "improved" with cut springs or bullsh*t taillights or Boyracer modified .

Just a standard tidy car

email me at " sashdish@xtra.co.nz "

Look up extrude porting - leaves an as cast looking surface... Basically an abrasive sludge is pumped throught the port increasing the overall size of the port while looking basically "stock" - was big a few years back with the v8 boys... a  few got caught

Hahaha! I better not let too much info out.

There is an outfit in the States called "Brzezinski Racing Products" that specializes in cheatin'

They do "Acid Porting" etc.

They will even weld GM casting #'s onto "world product" heads

check out http://castheads.com/

It reminds me of a Camaro I had years ago where I had to use the stock engine block and stock casting numbers [ but the rules allowed any block modifications or repairs ]

So I used about 10 sq inches of the original 305 block and 'repaired' it with a 400 block.

There's an old saying : " I know you're cheating , because I am cheating and you are beating me "

It's all about how thin your interpretation of the rules is !

there's an old saying: " I know you are cheating, because I am cheating and you are beating me "

but radiator is hopeless and dead ... leaks and rust everywhere.. plastic wasted and all.. i dont really mind if i dont get anything for them i just want them out of the garage..

ill go see if they take it at west auck dump near lincoln motorway exit.. its way closer than any metal scrappers from my house nearest one i think is at rosebank rd?.

Support your local scrappy [ even if you get nothing ] these guys provide a great service to our country so we need to keep them in business.

My motive is always the same as yours [ I get tired of tripping over the sh*t in my garage ] so I usually give my junk away.

Because of the local scrappys , we no longer see old cars pushed into gullies etc [ except from car thieves ]

Who cares if they make a few dollars from cleaning up our country

As a DIYer use caution or better still don't f**k with it at all [ remember it is difficult to un-port a head]

90% of the gains are from doing a good valve seat job [ and thinning the valve faces ]

Every porter I know will accidentally 'nick' a valve seat while porting .so they get the machinist to do a seat job, then "presto" more airflow [ they don't realise the gains were from someone elses work ]

I've spent a bit of time on a flowbench and have learnt "what looks better ain't neccessarily so"

On my old Chevy ZL1 heads we welded up the floors of the exhaust ports to make "D" ports ,that some "expert" had previously hogged out and we gained 35% on the flow bench

Remember an engine breathes in "gulps" or "pulses" so velocity is more important than CFM

[ you can mask poor CFM flow by upping the static compression ratio and using more valve timing ]

If you are interest in "cheating" [remember it is innovation until you get caught] for the E30 series. there are many ways to gain airflow. [ formula ford boys are experts here ]

If you're gonna do it the cheap assed way, put a sump accumulator on it.

It'll save your engine under high G's

Here's a link with a bit of info

http://www.thinkauto.com/accumulators.htm

I'm just trying to figure out if you should run both...

Run both, speaking from experience I got an extra 100RPM at the back straight of Pukekohe with one [ mind you the ol' chevy crank can carry a lot of oil ]

Windage trays are needed to stop oil aeration [ frothing ] drag racers use a "deep sump" for the same purpose

Baffles are needed to stop oil starvation under extreme G's , the best sumps use "trap doors" as baffles

Crank Scrapers keep oil off the crank [ usually on the RH side of the engine ] they reduce internal resistance

I don't use a scraper or baffles now, the alternative is $10K in a dry sump system

If the rules only allowed a stock oiling system, try and run an oil accumulator [ Moroso Accusump ] in the oil cooler lines [ they are external, and can save an engine ]

Take it to a scrappy, if the stuff is good they will buy it off you.

they will always take parts for free anyway.

Usually 12 months later you'll end up with the same sh*t back [ made into something else & sold via the warehouse ]

When the scrappy takes it, they always recycle it [ some dumps just bury parts ]

I'm a wanker

Yeah! you E30 guys have given all BMW owners a bad rap since the "sharemarket" days of 1987.

Now the E36 is getting a bad ass image.

Luckily the E36 is cheap Gus, all you need to do is "pimp out" the bodywork with your favorite Ball Peen hammer

Any interest in a wooden 6 speed one (M3 Evo)?

Only if you can throw in the 6 speed box.

seriously though ! I just want to put the standard 5 speed "leather" knob back on

Thanks for the reply anyway

Kerry

WTB . I am looking for a standard E36 Manual Shift Lever Knob

While I was overseas for 6 months the guy looking after my car "improved" it by replacing the standard shifter knob with some bullshit fake carbon-fibre piece of sh*t.

pm me quickly if you can help . [ before I go insane and get the urge to convert it to Auto ]

Cheers Kerry

I only use 1/4 tabs.... so I dont piss on me slippers

if you stuck a whole one in your slippers, it could make you 'Limp'

I got the same F**kwit too [ and I haven't been active here for a while ]

Mind you! all the 'softcocks' out there could get a good deal! haha!

Haha the place is full of them, just deport to a remote island.

My thoughts exactly, the problem is the island I was thinking of, is the one that has the "boy racer" problem

Oh well ! maybe we can deport them to that penal colony on the other side of the Tasman Sea

I can't see why the Gov't has a problem with radar detectors!

NZ has just had lowest annual road death toll in 39 years [ we have a sh*t load more cars now too! ]

Maybe the Cops still like playing "Goodies and Baddies" and need more things to harrass people with.

The Sad thing is all the politically correct F**kwits banned Group B Rally [ when the Video is quite clear at showing where the problem is ]

"Ban Low Performance Drivers, ......Not High Performance Cars"

You have to check this out [ rallying 23 years ago ] They had a different sort of crowd control back then!

The nearest thing to this in New Zealand is at the Whangamata "beach hop" when some pissed idiot does a burnout into the crowd

what size oil catch can do i need for a m20b25 turbo?? and how would you go plumbing it in? as i here its not done the standard pipe into the can and block off the throttle body way???

you MUST run a breather or the engine will breathe through the front and rear crank seals [ or any orrifice it can find ]

crankcase pressure is caused by ring blowby [ no rings can get 100% seal ]

Remember all pressure in the crankcase equalizes [ the valve covers have the same pressure as the sump ] the higher the cylinder pressure , the more blowby.

The best way is to run a catch can with a breather in the top [ it must have an oil separator like a gauze in it ]

gravity fed oil returns to the sump dont work with the engine running [ unless you have a bilge pump with pressure greater than crankcase pressure ]

use a tank with a minimum capacity of 1 litre [ more if you're gonna boost it crazy ] dont plumb it back into the intake,just let it breathe through a pod filter

I once test drove a diesel that had so much blowby plumbed into the intake that the motor couldn't be switched off [ it ran on it's own crankcase fumes ]

Just a quiet note.

I think you'll find its "duct" tape, not duck tape.

Being an expert in 100mph tape [ the racer variety ] , you are both correct.

originally called Duct tape because it is used for air conditioner ducting in buildings.

But the yanks have also marketed a brand of duct tape called "Duck Tape"

[ it even has a cartoon picture of a duck on the roll ]

Hey Gus! duct tape is better than a ballpeen hammer . you can use it for electrical repairs

I have also seen duct tape used to fix steering components [ on a stockcar ]

hey everyone, looking to put a new engine in my e30 any suggestion on what to go for and what will fit. does anyone no if its posissble to drop a lexus v8 in them, and how much modification needs to be done.

thanks mark.

Small Block Chevy mate, Can take it out to 7 litres [ 430 cubes ]

the only hiccup is the distributor is at the back of the block, so you might need to gas-axe a hole in the firewall

[ better still gas-axe out the whole firewall and recess the engine back]

These ol'donkeys can really "haul ass"

check this out...

Happy birthday to the bmw wiring diagram and electronics Guru!

Just relax today and enjoy yourself [ try setting points and carbs for a day ]

Ebay can be trusted but some Americans can't.

Most ebayers like dealing with Kiwis, but it helps to have a USA shipping address

The yanks love fleecing you for shipping costs [ and exporting styrofoam chips in a large box ]

USA has some powerful "Wire & Stamp" fraud laws [ it becomes a federal offence as soon as it involves the phone, internet, or postal service ]

I have used these laws before against a lying bitch in San Antonio Texas, [ I got service real fast after that ]

I have never lost an item yet on USA Ebay [ value for money is a different issue ]

right heres my situation

my 95 m3 sleeps in the garage as per normal, but the garage door is busted and wont close

the neighbours cat is taking advantage of this and chooses to sleep on my very loved m3

the problem is it leaves dirty paw prints everywhere and makes vertical scraches as it slides off and generaly annoys the heck out of me

ive tried letting the family dog go after it, covering the car with blankets and warning the owner to keep it inside at night

but it comes back everynight

apart from shooting it what other choices do i have untill i get the door fixed?

thanks

jeremy

OK Jeremy,

Heres some good advice [ And for all those who live next door to the "lil ol lady with 200 cats" ]

If you kill them, you will be held responsible.

So what you need is a friend with an Alaskan Malamute that you can borrow for a week.

These F**kers will kill any ferral animal , cat , rabbit, ginea-pig ,small dog etc within a 1km radiius [ they also eat the evidence ]

They are so good at killing, when you come home they will be waiting and smiling at you as if they had never left the property

Killing is in-bred to them [ It must be a survival instinct from living in Artic Conditions ]

good points above, however on my e30 I definatly noticed a positive difference - especially stability under braking. that was with a hinged bar, a decent brand though

Haha! Of course you would notice the difference under braking in a E30!!!

With those ol' E30 boats with the braking rod for the L/H master cylinder, and your heavy right foot.

It's a wonder you didn't collapse the towers when you stood on it.

As the saying goes "I couldn't fix it with a hammer, so it must be an electrical problem"

Not cheap at around $8500 plumbed.

The wife was very insistent tho!

Its an indirect, pumped system with 3 collecters.

8-1/2 grand? You can't be a true Westy! [ harden up bro!]

Whats wrong with using beer bottles on your roof for solar heating.

Your missus gets free hot water, you save money [ to buy more beer ]

you get pissed, so you don't care about hot water.

http://www.greenpacks.org/2008/06/04/diy-b...heating-system/

Don't wanna burst anyones bubble here.

even a $20.00 strut brace is a winner in the "Wank Factor" dept.

As for performance and handling, most MacPherson strut upper mounts have a bearing mounted into rubber [ for allignment ]

This upper mount will flex long before the chassis does [ unless the spot-welding was a friday afternoon assembly at the factory ]

You need spherical bearing upper mounts and rose jointed lowers before the strut brace does any good.[ and very stiff springs ]

Mind you the "laws of justification" sometimes exceed the "laws of physics", The thing may handle better because it is Anodized and cost $80-00 [ placebo effect ]