Docile

my e38 is a season veteran

OOO another e38 nut LOL!!.. haven't been back in the forums for a while and look what i missed

the current registered owner will get sent a payment demand for that outstanding rego (of one year, the time from it expiring to it deregistering), so make sure you know which address the car is registered to or you may make even more trouble if they send it to baycorp.

Keep the plates, let the plates people know they are no longer on that car.

If you are selling the car, and the new owner intends to re-register it, if you can try to give them an old certificate of ownership or something as that will help them to prove previous ownership of the car (and that it isnt stolen etc). If you dont give them anything they may come back to you so you can prove you sold it to them.

hmm last address is was registered to was our old house.......

Just walk into the postshop with your plates and see what happens. Rego expires after a year so I'll assume at max there will be 12 months of rego owed. I don't know that for certain though so there may be a work around.

You won't be stung for 5 years rego.

i don't think i can personally walk up to the post shop and do that as i'm not the owner of the car?

so max 1 year rego payment.

need to cancel at postshop

The plates are personalised.

last rego of the car was 2009? i think so its way pass the 12 months.

so what you guys are saying is that i have to pay 5 years worth of rego?? to sell the car?

can't i sell it as is?

other option would be to just have the wreckers take it. what paper works are needed for that?

hey guys, with regards to paper work to sell this off, what do would i need?

the car is my sister's car and she currently resides in australia. we are moving house and i dont want to lug it around to the new house.

MHAHAH!!.. fixed the bugger.

so my friend and I just said F it.

went to super cheap got 2 cans of throttle body cleaner, a can of maf cleaner, 2 cans of degreaser,

then bought intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, paper towels, rags and a very cold Saturday morning till early afternoon + burger fuel combos

dont know which one had the air leak but now its purring like new again

anyone here got the special tools to do the vanos seal? im thinking of ordering the seal and getting it started in the next couple of weeks.

Ok Update:

replaced the TPS sensor with a known working one and also replaced back and forth the idle control valve. still nothing. the ICV is working (humming from the motor could be heard) but will check tomorrow if the valve insie it opens and closes forgot to check it.

still idling constantly on about 1500rpm. car drives great no power lose, only thing i noticed was braking was a bit harder than usual with engine idling high.

car starts fine at first tick no problems. on Drive, car idles at about 1k.

had the car scanned and no errors showed up.

ECU read out says no error

transmission read out no error

i tried removing the ICV when the engine was idling, it dropped down to 1k. plugged it back in, it went back to 1500rpm after about 10 - 15 secs.

looks like i will be hunting down vacuum hoses for leaks. anyone have a diagram or know which ones could be the culprit.

thanks

alright so did some tests on it.

there are 2 of the same sensors. the 1st one is before the throttle body on the 'L' bend into the throttle body. saw the same part number so tested it first.

on the first TPS? (looks like a throttle body valve as well)

opening and closing the valve the ohms went up and down within the specified range of approx 1ohms - 4ohms.

tested the one on the throttle body, the ohms barely moved as i opened and closed the throttle cable.

will update on this when i get to take it out and replace it with my friend's working one.

alright will check the TPS. found some info on how to test it. will update later.

Ok im stumped on this one, my car is now idling too high after 2 months storage in the garage.

first start up idle was at about 1,100rpm. engine got up to normal temp and idle still the same. no rough idle or lose of power after a 15 minute spirted drive.

i took out the idle control valve and cleaned it and clean the contacts as well.

put it back in still the same.

while idling, i unplugged the idle control valve and idle went down.

borrowed my friend's idle control valve from his m60 (working fine), plugged it in and still the same. but now idle is around 1,200rpm. unplugging it while idling it goes down to 1,000rpm.

im stumped on this one. previous job done the the car was when my dad replaced the thermostat housing.

ive checked all the sensor plugs are in and all hose clamps are tight.

Could it be a vacuum leak somewhere? or stale gas?

i only hear noticeable intake noise from the air filter side and at the intake manifold.

hey guys just noticed that the big radiator fan is not turning on even when coolant temp is at normal. shouldn't it be on when the temp is normal?

anyone know where to get a decent priced service for an a/c system regas?

It seems ive got an oil leak under the throttlebody under the intake manifold of a m50? could it be one of the breather hoses?

part number: 11 53 1 436 407

thanks

part number: 11531436407

its the simple long "S" shape.

update:

car is at the workshop now getting an inspection.

If trans fluid is ok he said he will just top it up if needed but trans cooler will need replacing and cooling system flushed.

he suggested to bypass the oem radiator oil cooling and opt for an external one which he said is around $250 - $350 depending on how big the cooler will be. a new oem cooler is at $220.

is it worth it to go the external route? my uncle will be keeping the car for a long time.

im guessing the external one would be like the one on the e36

Im sending it to the gearbox factory in Henderson. that place and the workshops around it are like car heaven old school cars like the AC cobra, mustangs, chargers and sometimes race cars (targa) are there getting work done or just parked up. i always walk around and have a look see at the cars

the car shifts into gear all good when i tested it.

I currently have the radiator drained and the oil cooler unhooked from the radiator. will put it back on monday on the way to the trans workshop.

cross fingers all is still well

dont know yet. haved booked it in to get inspected on Monday. if its all good im buying a new oil cooler.

gahhh..

ok thanks Glenn. the oil cooler is the silver rectangle aluminium thing clipped into the bottom of the radioator under expansion tank right?

another headache

my uncle's e46 318i has a lot of oil in the radiator. the car just had a full trans fluid change about 5 months ago and the oil smells of trans fluid.

engine oil dont have water in it.

could it be a broken radiator or oil cooler?

hmmm im contemplating on this this as well.

my sister bought an e36 earlier last year and torque / power is weak at the low end <3k rpm. then picks up after that. 260k on it. it bogs down more noticeably when engine is cold. but when warm no bogging but weak power delivery below 3k.

also checked for vacuum leaks and it was all good. engine idles good as well.

ive done the oil change. no errors on diagnostic as well.