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M M

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Posts posted by M M


  1. The early E28's have a different subframe and trailing arms than the later (same as E34 arms).

    The sweep angle is different 15° on the old (same as an E30) and 12° on the later, they also have the 'dog-bone' links that dynamically control toe to reduce the toe-in as the suspension squats.

    So best go find yourself a later model subframe.

    This is what I have in my E30.

    That makes sense, as my one does not have mounts for dog bones at all. Sort of wish I knew this before doing the bushes but it will be a job for the future. Thanks for the information.

    Could you put the entire e34 subframe in?

    This is what I was thinking to do, but apparently without a lot of work it won't, and looking at the e34 compared to the e28, I was inclined to argree.


  2. Hmm strange. Everything I have read says the arms should fit.

    You're more than welcome to grab my subframe and compare it to yours. I also have two sets of late arms here if you want to plaY also

    Yeah, same here which is why I was quite surprised. Might take you up on that to compare later.

    The rear of my 85 is quite different to my 86. Maybe they only work on later cars?

    That did come to my mind also. Probably the case.


  3. Not much in the way of actual progress despite most of Sunday spent on the car and 5 hours last night.

    So on Sunday, 2 hours were spent on removing the old rear subframe bushes which we finally managed after a lot of sawing, hammering and verbal threats. Thank you to Jibs and my friend Johnny for the help. The new ones just slid in thanks to my forward thinking and my friend's commercial fish freezer which I left them in overnight.

    So with that done and rear subframe back in, I went to fit the e34 trailing arms which apparently 'would' work. Well. After having to do a bit of clearance making on the rear subframe seam lip to get the bigger arms to fit, I finally bolted up the arms and all looked well. Until I walked out from under the car and had a look at the side.

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    Behold before you, maximum stance. There was a good 10mm difference in toe just from the edges of the hub. That is where I left it for the day. And, in the process of all this, one of my e28 handbrake cables somehow got mangled so now I have to wait for the new ones to arrive.

    Went back yesterday and removed the e34 hubs to swaps the e28 ones back on and pulled the brakes off the e34 ones to now put on the e28 hub. And in the process of removing the slightly seized on discs, I sent the hammer right into my knee and am now very sore. But I carried on.

    Once that was done, I proceeded to remove the steering box, with the help of my still sick friend (the guy just won't give up), to replace with the lower mileage e34 box with again 'would' work. Well.

    Got the steering box off after a good hour of hammering only to realise that the idler arm spline is different. Ok, not such a big deal. I put the steering box in the car to mock up the lines as one has to bent for it to work. Well it's a pretty slim chance of stretching the line to get it to fit, and being the high pressure line, I didn't want to take any risk. So swapped the newer e34 uni joint onto the e28 box and put it back in. Another few hours wasted. And the steering box is probably screwed now.

    At least I managed to cut a big hole in the front, which was some consolation.

    26102905110_e7ccfacc39_b.jpg

    But that is also bitter sweet as the e34 radiator I wanted to try and use fit perfectly width wise. Then I looked at the car from the front. 50mm too tall. Luckily the radiator that came out of the parts car does fit so it is a backup.

    Moral of the story: E34 trailing arms do NOT work (on early subframe). E34 steering box is not a bolt in upgrade/solution.

    • Like 1

  4. The motor and gearbox are now out of my e28 1984 525e and are for sale.

    Motor includes everything attached in the photos including loom and ECU. Essentially complete. Loom has been cut at c101 plug but otherwise intact.

    Gearbox is the 525e Getrag 260/5 and includes flywheel with correct TDC mark, sensors, clutch and pressure plate (some meat left but I would recommend getting a new one), full shifter assembly (some parts no pictures) and clutch slave cylinder and rubber line.

    To do a manual conversion, you would additionally need the clutch hardline, pedal box/clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, reservoir (I have one of these I can throw in) and driveshaft.

    Prices:

    $300 for complete motor, loom and ECU.

    $600 for gearbox and parts listed above.

    Pickup from Penrose.

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  5. Made great progress today.

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    Started at around 10am, by 1pm the engine, gearbox, driveshaft, diff and exhaust were out. By the end of the day I also removed the rear subframe, control arms and complete hubs. Almost got the steering box off but I gave up and went home before I got it fully off.

    Tomorrow the plan is to change out the rear subframe bushes and put it back in along with the e34 trailing arms, hubs and brakes plus do whatever else I can. At this rate I'm starting to think there is a possibility it will be going by next weekend.

    Big thanks to my friend Gancen who, depsite being sick, was up and onsite at 8am to give me a hand to pull the motor. What a champ.

    By the way, the eta motor, gearbox and diff are for sale for those interested.

    • Like 3

  6. Car looks neat. MK2 Golf and E28, good car garage in the 80's, still is today.

    Thanks. Mk2 is for sale now though.

    Nice lazy ratio. Ended up with a 3.73 med case in the e30, will be interesting to compare.

    It will be. I initally wanted a higher ratio but considering this was LSD and the price I got it for I couldn't say no. Should work well if I boost the motor which is very likely.


  7. Cant wait to see it with all your goodies put on. Very nice piece of machinery.

    Thank you.

    Made my engine mount adapters today. Used 12mm steel, might be overkill a little but when I'm dragging off Evos and Skylines the last thing I want to be worrying about is the engine falling out under the car, haha. Would love to leave them this finish but they will rust so I am coating them.

    26038996465_f1567658e1_b.jpg

    Also began repairing my spoiler. Got a partial refund from the seller which we agreed on. He was super good to deal with so I'm happy.

    The damage:

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    In repair:

    25436464783_4e696e3d66_b.jpg

    More updates to come. Hoping to paint my valve cover and intake manifold tomorrow.

    • Like 2

  8. Looks awesome Mateja, watching with interest. :)

    Thanks Ben.

    Bruh

    Cuz

    How did you find all those goodies, leather sports seats, flares, premium speakers? (In saying that I found a whole car of goodies)

    Haha, a friend of mine asked me that exact question the other day. I have no idea, I've just been lucky to be at the right place at the right time and find them or get offered them. Same thing happened with my Mk2 Golf.

    Parcel tray painted black and installed:

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    My Mtech spoiler arrived today but the seller didn't package it properly so one end of it got damaged. It's fiberglass so it can be fixed but I'm not happy so I've contacted him.


  9. Hey MM any idea if your springs will work with stock shocks on my e28?

    I believe they will but from what I understand would be rather long and would probably not drop it much if at all. Plus they'll be rated for more weight meaning even less drop on the e28.


  10. Did the car have AP springs in it when you brought it to the meet? I remember it had a nice stance to it then.

    No, that had my old suspension. It sits pretty much the same now, maybe marginally higher by a few millimeters.

    How are you dealing with mounting the engine? The bolt holes aren't on the block for the e28 arms/mounts.

    I'm going to make adapter plates and use E28 M30 brackets which I have.

    Proof that this is happening:

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    Some other cool stuff that's going on:

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    • Like 3
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