Jump to content

M M

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    483

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by M M

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, LsBeema said:

    Thanks man....you can be in line to take her for a spin and give me some feedback. One of the first will be GodFather- Ray-hellbm...looking forward to his Yay/nays ...so no pressure so far as perferction from my side is concerned..??

    F*** yes I'll take you up on that.

    Could you take a further out photo of that exhaust? From those it looks fine to me.

  6. Posted · Edited by M M · Report reply

    This car was put together by a guy I used to know.

    It's more like an e30 body with e36 running gear and e46 engine. The engine is an AGU 20v 1.8 turbo out of an early mk4 Golf. Cable throttle. The running gear is mk3 GTI, 5 stud 5x100. It's a full subframe swap with bigger brakes. Rear beam was swapped. Mk3 steering rack. This was a good few years ago now though, don't know what's been done to it since.

    It's a pretty common swap these days for the older Golfs and Jettas. I did one in my old Mk2 as well.

    For what they are they are heaps of fun and go really well.

    Just depends what you are looking for. I prefer my 328i manual E36. Don't regret moving on from my mk2.

    • Like 1

  8. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, aja540i said:

    Ah, ok. When were your runners and tracks in the window mechanism last lubricated? If the motor draws too much current it triggers the safety function and having dried up scummy old grease in the mechanism can be enough to push it over the edge. Take the door card off and put some new grease in the runners where the window carrier slides, and a little bit on the drive gear, then run it up and down a few times, it should help.

    Probably never so I'll do that. Thanks.

  9. Posted · Edited by M M · Report reply

    On 1/16/2020 at 10:01 PM, aja540i said:

    If it thinks the door is open because of a worn switch it drops the glass down a bit so that when you close the door it lifts the glass again and it seals into the rubber properly. Try it with the door open, then push the door switch in all the way with a screwdriver, if the glass lifts back up your switch needs changing.

    I see what you're saying, but that all works fine. What happens with mine is when the window is say all the way down, and you press to put the window up, it will stop halfway and drop a little. Similar to what happens if your arm is out the window and you try to put it up. How I read Nick's explanation it sounded like he has the same problem.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/15/2020 at 6:05 PM, aja540i said:

    Check the door switch, my coupe did this, something to do with it not knowing the door was shut and dropping the glass to clear the door rubber when you shut it. The plastic on the door switch wears where it hits the striker, replacement (good 2nd hand) switch sorted it.

    My issue is when the door is closed and you press the button to close the window, it goes up a bit then "catches", stops  and drops down a little. How would the door switch affect that?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, zero said:

    Hedgehog is a common failure

    From my understanding this has more to do with the fan speed. Have you had it affect the temperatures as well?

    19 hours ago, Eagle said:

    My friends E36 is like this but once the AC is on it appears to cease or maybe blend cold air into it. I never really looked into it because he hardly drives so never tested much. Im guessing you tried running full manual vent mode with everything cold? 

    Assuming the heater valves are good and the control unit is functioning properly then I wonder if its some sort of connection issue from control unit to the HVAC stepper motors, possibly causing them not to shut when selecting cold given the center vents is controlled separate    

    Edit: Does the E36 have an actual IHKA module as such? I know E34\E32 did which was in the dash

    I don't believe they do have IHKA.

    What do you mean full manual vent mode? I'm assuming pressing the left buttons with the up and down arrows, which I have.

    Is the heater valve supposed to completely shut off hot water flow when the temperature is set to coldest? If not then there may be some flaps that are not working.

  15. Posted · Edited by M M · Report reply

    I've done quite a bit of research on this and some diagnosing but I can't find a solution.

    The heater in my e36 will only blow hot air to the foot and windscreen vents no matter what the settings are. As long as I select foot or windscreen, it is hot. It blows cold from the middle vents, as well as hot when the adjuster on the middle vent is turned.

    I have rebuilt a heater valve unit with new seals, needles etc and installed it, made no difference. They are definitely working as I can feel and hear the solenoids clicking. I tested the voltages at the plug and they range from 7v to around 12v depending on the temperature setting on the control unit in the car.

    Today I got another control unit to see if that was the problem, also no difference.

    It has the dual climate electronic control module that looks like the one in the image attached.

    I recently pulled out all the AC parts from the engine side but it was doing the same thing before that so I don't think it's related at all to AC.

    Does anyone had any ideas what could be causing this?

    e36 heater control.jpeg

×
×
  • Create New...