jimbo01

Some older modems could handle ADSL2, some of the really old ones won't. Some ADSL2 modems work better than others.

To get full use of the ADSL2 you need an ADSL2 modem, and a plan that doesn't restrict your upload speed. I can't recall the exact figure but when using TCPIP downloads the protocol requires about 1 bit upload for every 8 or so bits downloaded.

Log in to your DSL modem to check you line sync speed ypstream and downstream. ADSL2 will be about 24mbps download sync speed. Download tests from a local server with a high capacity connection will be blisteringly fast. Downloading from another user who is connected via ADSL will be slower due to the ADSL technology having a much bigger download capacity than upload. Synchronous DSL has equal up and down speeds.

Jimbo

its going up to 15% like everything but its also going up more!

Cant find anything to say when or how much its going up but why?

Sorry but they are driving me insane with all the price changing sh*t.

Everything bought retail has an additional 2.5% as GTS is going from 12.5% to 15%. Petrol has an additional tax and is still dirt cheap here - try driving in Europe.

Your personal income tax goes down though so more money to pay the addiitonal GST.

My poor sister is going through a similar situation at the moment.

She parked in Howick in her 318ti and received a fine for $200 for no rego. The car did have a rego but the ticket must have fallen out of the loose pocket. She wrote in and explained that the car does have a rego and a wof but the ticket had fallen out which they could confirm via their system. They responded by saying Tuff sh*t $200 for not displaying your rego ticket. And even supplied a fricken photo the wanker parking nazi had taken of the rego holder with no ticket.

So even though she had a rego and a wof she still has to pay $200 for it falling out. What a joke.

And they wonder why people hate them!

check the micro switch on the boot latch inside the boot lid, make sure it is working properly (measure it!)

Another common problem is a broken wire in the rubber boot between boot and car body (where the wires flex all the time)

Take the lining off the boot lid to check both problems. Easy to find and fix.

Thanks Jochen

The wiring between the boot lid and trunk is my number 1 suspect. My plate light failed when I run the reversing camera video feed through there, and when i couldn't find an ACC feed in the boot lid I had to run the reversing camera power wire through there and DAMN it took hours.

What is stange is that all the wires have been joined at some stage just inside the gromlet (boot lid replacement?). This was where my platelight wire was broken.

You may know - is there an ACC pickup point in the rear right of the E38, and if not, is there a ACC feed on the left side, and if so, which plug would it be in. Hotwire says i should look for a violet/white wire.

Jim

http://www.supercars.net/pitlane/pics/183087/2043334d.jpg

I've been installing bits and pecies in the back of my E38 740i. It has the automatic opening and closing boot lid.

Currently it has a problem which is it's giving me a warning that the trunk is open, but it's not. The trunk also won't auto open as it won't it already thinks it's open, so tried to pump up the hydraulic lifter, but nothing happens. I have to open the trunk using the key, then it will raise up.

Any ideas?

Starting bid $10,000, Buy now 15k...

One too many 0's??

I'ts still there at $10,000 reserve - thats like insane money for a 91 318 with that many K's

Sub Woofer Install.

Physically complete apart from some customise trim to tidy up around the subs

Installed the rear sub enclosure, re-fitted the rear seats. , and installed the 2 Pioneer amps.

Amplifier Install

Physically complete and all of the electrical connections to the amps have been done at the amp. I havn't connected into the car wiring yet as my back is sore from getting in and out of the boots to drill the mounting holes for the amps,and screw the amps into place.

The sub amp just needs to have it's wiring connected to the power and earth.

The door speaker amp needs it's wiring to be connected into the cars speaker wiring, and it's power, earth and an accessory connectied. Another hour or so, some soldering, and some heat shrink should see it finished.

Reversing Camera

Haven't found a violet/white wire near the right tail light yet which I need to power the reversing camera. Also the blue plug connection pin 14 which I'm supposed to use to conbects the camera video shield isn't spare so thats holding me up .

Navigation Retro Fit

This is waiting until I finish connecting the amp into the speaker wiring. The antenna is in place.

Blind Retro-fit

This is physically fitted BUT I can't use the blind as it will catch on the subspeaker spacer. I may get another enclosure, and black trim at some point and modify it so I can fit the sub so it will fit within the standard speaker trim. IF I do this i can get the rear blind working. Right now this isn't top of my priorty list.

On topic of PS3's can those who have one tell me what it can/cant do? Anything that really bugs you about them? Anything that you love about them? Ive been looking for an "all in one" type multi media device for some time. From what ive seen they can do everything but record from tv and what Simon wishes it could do for him or should I say do to him lol

Sell me

I got the original PS3 and it has performed flawlessly. Love the Blue-ray player. TV on demand from TVNZ. Music videos. Games of course. Sync media to your PC. WiFi. Quiet.

Just pre ordered the Collectors Edition from Mighty Ape and though it would be a good time to see who else here will be getting the game.

Also would be good to share PSN usernames so we can have some Bimmersport GT5 races.

Collectors Edition

http://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/PS3/Gra...dition/8047983/

Standard Edition

http://www.mightyape.co.nz/product/PS3/Gra...ismo-5/3169183/

GT5 Screenshot to give thread some visual flair.

I've paid a deposit on GT5 at JB Hifi - and it's why I bought a PS3

Yeah, you are so right! I'm about 50 metres from the exchange and have fast ADSL2 speed (17k connection rate).

Some places in NZ are fine - its just our crappy copper lines over a long distance....

Many of the problems with our broadband are not at the access end. Fibre to the home can be likened to a Motorway to your garage, a 110kv power line to your home etc, or a 1 meter water main to the house. Even streaming HD content (720p) only requires a few Mbps - and DSL1 easily achieves that. The so called education and health apps that fibre to the home will enable don't require massive bit rates. HD TV is pretty much the only app that we currently know of that requires a really high bit rate, and even then DSL2 will stream at that speed. Other technologies such as digital UHF and Satillite are probably better suited to streaming HD live video content.

- The speed everyone can work at on a DSLAM at the same time is only about 32kbps - good dial up is faster! It all calculated on the hope that not everyone uses it at the same time, which isn't that realistic at about 5.30pm in an evening with kids in almost every household doing homework while streaming the odd utube video.

- The ComCom has made it worse for poeple at the end of long copper lines by not allowing the transmit power in DSL models to be controlled. They all go full power, including those near the DSLAM which doesn't make it go any faster, but the induced interference in the copper cable affects those users further down the line.

- Limited international capacity

- Limited backhaul

- The sites you are visitng have limited capacity and lots of hits, so you are getting just aproportion of their speed. The more popular the site the more packets having tio be senbt to different users.

- low levels of local peer to peer trafic, most downloads are from off shore. As upstream counts as usage most Kiwis are reluctant to stream at anything close to a good speed so people opt for offshore. If you stream from a local user it's probably going to be slow as they have limtied the upstream spped.

- Not a lot of local caching. ISP's got scared off by large media companies threatening to sue for example.

- Lack of interconnection points between ISP's so packets get routed from Dunedin to Auckland to be sent back to Dunendin. This shouldn't be a factor anymore as there are a good number of handoff points but not every ISP wants to connect to them.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

My beloved Rover is now up for sale. I love it to bits, but, is time to move on and be realistic, plus I miss my BMW's. Car is located just North of Eketahuna. The P6B was a revolutionary car when new and still has a ride quality many new cars can't compare with, an amazing cruiser with the right sound! I always wanted a P6 as a kid, now I have had one....

$1 reserve, why not? Grab a classic!

My brother had one of these when we were teenagers. Nice car - can't remember why he sold it.

Bought the Ados F2 glue spray today so I'll get the trim all sorted before the weekend.

Used epoxy and screws to close off the 2 spare speaker holes with the Kicker metal plates. Aiming to mount in the car this Saturday!

Ados F2 in an aerosol can will work, as will the brush on type. Otherwise get the green can which is a gel version if you don't want any drips. Otherwise, any other contact adhesive will work. Make sure you apply to both sides and let the glue flash off before you stick them together.

Thanks - will try it

Do you need any kinda sepcial tools to open it up?

Might give it a go before forking out for repair or refurbished xbox.

Yep - you need special tools.

Plenty of kits on trademe. I bought the RROD repair kit proII which was the most expensive at $48 delivered but has everything you need, including the special torx drivers, the heat sink compound for the CPU's under the heatsinks, replacement bolts so you don't need to re-fit the xbrackets, the sticky heat pads for the memory chips, 2 additional metal stick on heatsinks for 2 other large chips on the mother board, and a link to the instructions on the web.

The problem is overheating chips, and in particular the memory chips that are underneath the motherboard. Ours had just started to do the freezing thing. the precursor sympton to the red ring of death. Did the fix today and my son has tried it and the freezing is gone. As i bought the XBox 360 slim last weekend we now have 2 working Xboxes. One for each kid. Me - I've got the PS3 in my bedroom.

I have bought a Black e38 rear sub woofer trim which has some of the cloth lifting off and I need to reatatch it. Is there a product that anyone has sucessfully used?

Thanks

I got the trim cut to fit arround the speaker spacers this weekend - and now I need to find a suitable glue to re-glue the cloth. Any recommendations?

Used a plastic ice cream container for material to close off the holes I cut in the subwoofer enclosure. Lots of epoxy glue used and currently drying. Used this to form a basic shape that I can add layers of fibre glass mat and more epoxy to. Will look at installing next Saturday.

So my final comment on this setup is that the sound of the Pioneer LX60 combined with the POLK RT2000i gives a clean almost clinical sound. There is less volume in the mids with more emphasis on the highs, and overall less power in the base. I would describe the sound with the Yamaha DSPA1 as more relaxed and more warm, and for me a more enjoyable experience. What I didn't expect was signifincatly lower volume. I can listen to the LX60 at plus 12db, the loudest it will go. It however has issues and shuts down for about 10 seconds after a minute of two at full blast. I guess those extra 5kg in the Yamaha were in the power supply and massive passive heatsinks. I guess I've gone from what was a Yamaha flagship model to more of a bottom of the top end in Pioneers range so my comparison isn't probably that fair.

Pioneer can put on all the fancy letters they want but it's never going to compete with a yamaha sound wise ,seriously why do yamaha win so many awards and not on the mags that are sponsored and therefore have biased reviews

Sad but true - oh well my Son still has my older Yamaha receiver LOL. When the current range of hi-end yamahas like the RVX3900 drop in price I'll be able to genuinely upgrade.

I have now set up the Pioneer BDP-LX70A Blu-ray player and it is doing a great job and as you would expect works seemlessly with the Pioneer Amp. The blu-ray player was packaged great - lots of foam and bubble wrap.

My Yamaha DSPA1 sold last Saturday for $550 and is now gone

So for convieniance for the family with the HDMI switching the Pioneer gets the thumbs up

Personally I miss the Yammy and have no-one to blame but my self. I was seduced by HDMI switching, THXSelect, and a shinny black plastic front panel, and blue lights.

Thats the big draw back of buying on trademe. You can't listen to the setup you are going to create before you buy, and some amps are better suited to some speakers.

So my final comment on this setup is that the sound of the Pioneer LX60 combined with the POLK RT2000i gives a clean almost clinical sound. There is less volume in the mids with more emphasis on the highs, and overall less power in the base. I would describe the sound with the Yamaha DSPA1 as more relaxed and more warm, and for me a more enjoyable experience. What I didn't expect was signifincatly lower volume. I can listen to the LX60 at plus 12db, the loudest it will go. It however has issues and shuts down for about 10 seconds after a minute of two at full blast. I guess those extra 5kg in the Yamaha were in the power supply and massive passive heatsinks. I guess I've gone from what was a Yamaha flagship model to more of a bottom of the top end in Pioneers range so my comparison isn't probably that fair.

Didn't think a white car could look this good - sweet ride!

Decided 2 spacers on the subs was a totally crap look, and meant the blind wouldn't be able to clear the speaker either.

So yesterday I cut the base of the OEM sub enclosure to make space for the kicker speaker magnets. I will close the holes with fibreglass mat, and epoxy resin. (Tip - when cutting a platic enclosure resting on you legs, be careful when the saw goes through the plastic. I have a nice hole in my knee from the saw). 1st pick shows the spacer in place, and the hile cust on the enclosure. The trim is over the top and 'almost' fits.

Today I used screws and epoxy glue / filler to join the spacers to the sub woofer enclosure. It says it take up to 7 days top cure to full hardness so I guess thats next weekend for the fibre glass work. The 2nd pick shows this - used plenty of epoxy for a good seal. And yes it does look disgusting

I used the SEM today to restore the black on my rear blind trim and basically looks 200% better than before.

Before and after shots posted, and 3rd shot of it in the car.

I think the black trim with the tan leather is better than the matched trim. This look matchs the front dash, and the doors which all are black on top.

I'll post a photo on what the completed back parcel tray looks like on my sub woofer post. I am aiming for a stealth installation using the OEMN sub enclosure, and hopefully using the OEM grills. I figure it's going to be easier to match any customisation using black than tan on the shelf.

Pink Floyd can never be too loud

Ain't that the truth - you got to get that wall of sound up and washing over you!

Personally, i would not give positive feedback for the shoddy postage...But glad to hear its working

Thats the problem with trademe feedback - if you give fair feedback - i.e. neutral or bad in this case you get the same and trademe won't do a thing about it.

For example I have one negitive feedback from some idiot who wouldn't remove a bid when requested (3 days before the auction ended as seller was misrepresenting age of goods AND would not post a photo of the actual item), then when I 'won' and didn't complete he abused me and sent threatening txts, (which i copied to trademe) and even knowing that trademe left his feedback there.

VSX-LX60 amp shut down today when I running at about +6db on Pink Floyds Pulse 'Comfortably Numb'. After 10 seconds it turned back on. This was not yet unfomfortablably loud - it is significantly less powerful in the real world than the Yamaha DSPA1 when driving the POLK RT2000i. Oh well no worry as the rest of the family thought it was way too loud.

Took a quick look at the online version of the manual. Turns out on the LX60 +12db is max setting and couldn't find anything about custom max setting.

I had this full blast and it wasn't what I would consider party volumn. The yamaha would go that loud on mute (muted by 20db), and god help you if you turned the mute off by mistake. Very wierd. Perhaps it is brokenb after all!