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rowanhol

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Posts posted by rowanhol


  1. i was thinking about running without an intercooler but since i'm not retarding the ignition and just using a rrfpr i want the air to be as cool as possible, to be on the safe side rather than performance, may sound like i'm taking a step backwards but don't want my engine detonating..

    already ordered an intercooler,550x140x45, should fit behind the bumper super stealth. couldn't really be bothered with the plumbing involved with a water to air intercooler.

    now i need to find a 200mm crank pulley 4pk i think,will check when i get home, hmm


  2. hey guys i have a 535 manual and a 525m50 auto parts car, just wondering if it's worth ripping the diff out of the 525 as a spare for the 535?

    am i correct in thinking the m50 is higher revving so will have a better accellerating diff (shorter ratio is it?) but its auto so will that make it have a taller diff than a manual 525? if so will it be about the same ratio as the 535 manual?

    am i confusing you guys?

    someone shed some light please


  3. I'm not 100% sure what the sc14 came on, 2 or 2.5l i think and i think they run 8psi on that engine(i'm about 50% sure of that lol)

    what i do know is that they push 1.4L of air per revolution with a max rpm of 10,000..

    so bassicly i'm going to have it reach max revs at 6000 engine rpm, my rev limiter is 6300 but i very rarely rev to limiter so should be sweet.so my boost is definately limited due to the small size of the supercharger.But like i say, anymore than that and i'd have to rebuild half the engine.

    i got my flatmate to calculate how much psi i would get,and on paper was 6psi and 311hp at the flywheel.. then we estimate a 1.5-2psi drop going through the intercooler and piping.

    i'ts going to be alot of trial and error for this build but hopefully be worth it.

    there should be an online calculator for working out the psi for your engine, i might ask my flatmate nicely if he can do it for your m50 though.

    i'll keep you posted with how the project is going


  4. Would be interested in knowing! I get a creak from my left rear suspension, thinking shock top mounts guys?

    i had the same issue with my car..

    try mouse traps set with peanut butter-worked a treat for me

    vermin basturds

    yeah im bord sorry guys


  5. found some nice machined alloy replicas of the plastic bosh compressor bypass valve on ebay, should be exactly what i'm after, stays open under engine vacum and closes as soon as positive pressure is present in the inlet manifold..ace

    not 100% sure on what you mean but my setup will run roughly 4-6psi max, estimated with max revs the supercharger can handle. myte be able to leave the supercharger constantly engaged with this bypass valve as it will only close and build boost when you stomp your right foot.basicly freewheeling at idle and cruising.

    i just didnt want to use bucket loads of gas when cruising at constant speed on the open road


  6. a supercharger still needs some form of release valve,trust me ive looked into it a hell of alot, i'm not after a pshhhh sound, i'd rather die of aids then have my car sneeze down the road, plus i'tl be set up plumback style as my afm would have alredy measured the air,so shouldn't be able to hear it releasing pressure..hopefully

    the purpose of a bov for this setup is similar to a turbo, a supercharger spinning at 10,000 rpm is pushing alot of air, all of a sudden the throttle body closes(when changing gears etc) there is a massive spike in pressure as the supercharger/ engine keep reving highly for a second or so. all that excess air has nowhere to go except back into the supercharger trying to stall it causing it to slip on the belt or damage the unit.. or blow off hoses

    I also understand a bov is generally only adjustable to release between 10-25psi which my setup will never get too, hence why im asking if i'ts easy enough to trim and stretch the spring making it release at lower boost and under idle vacum.

    my unit has an electro magnetic clutch so have two options

    1. have a microswitch connected to the throttle so it engages in at a certain point through the accelerator travel, although i dont think you can let it kick in at too higher revs.

    2. have a switch in-dash and turn it on when i want some extra power and leave it off for open road cruising etc- with this setup i need a bov or cbv to release at idle when the supercharger is engaged.


  7. managed to find an interesting article on bmwe34.net about oil canisters, Racing King used to make an adapter plate that bolts up to the block and runs a couple of hoses to a remote oil canister. have emaild them to see if the kit is still available.not sure if kit uses 535 canister or if you need an aftermarket unit though..could be pricy.could look hell cool also haha

    alternatively any one have a remote canister from a 750? or something similar?


  8. If its a belt driven SC unit ... this negates the use of a BOV.

    The oil cooler would sit just in front of the radiator.

    a supercharger is still spinning at very high rpm when throttle body is closed though,the engine doesn't drop from redline to idle immediately it needs some form of vent to stop boost spiking in the intake tubes, also a supercharger tends to build boost at idle more than a turbo and puts a fair amount of load on the system. im pretty sure i can use a piston style bov and cut the spring down and stretch it..making it vent at idle and close at low boost when the TB is opening.

    did you mean oil filter or cooler? i need to relocate the filter,damn


  9. so ive decided to do it, just bough a sc14 supercharger to slap on my 535.. i know it's only small and it won't run high boost but that suits me fine(don't want to undertake extensive engine mods).

    I have many questions and need good sound advice, try not to criticise. i'll try to keep it to a couple of questions at a time

    I'm expecting 4-6psi, going to run a small front mount intercooler, afm before superchager, either a recirculating BOV or a CBV, rising rate fuel pressure reg.

    1: BOV or compressor bypass valve? basicly bov opens when still under boost when throttle body closes(gear shifts etc) but stays closed in every other situation

    CBV is open during idle(small amount of boost from supercharger and vacum from inlet manifold hold it open) and closes as you stomp the right pedal..in theory can be set to fully close at say 3/4 throttle giving max boost. so still quite driveable around town and on open road until you give it heaps.

    I assume both systems work the same way but cbv has a very soft spring so that it stays open at idle whereas bov has hard spring holding it closed. so could i trim and stretch the spring in a bov to work the same way? or are they quite different?

    I myte run an in dash switch for the clutch on the supercharger so i can turn it off on the open road so maybe i just want a system that will vent at idle and during closing of the throttle body but fully close and build boost at around 1500rpm..

    also whats the deal with diaghram and piston bov's? ssqv?? whats up with all the different types,what one do i want?

    remember i'm going to plumb it back to intake between afm and supercharger

    2:how could i remotely mount the oil filter since it's perfectly in the way of where i want to mount the supercharger

    anyone done this before?


  10. 1991 auto 525, engine overheated, a few bits have been robbed from it already but is mostly complete.

    supposedly the box has had alot of work done to it although i cannot get receipts from previous owner, it does look like the box has been out of the car recently though.

    rego is dead so would only really suit parts

    dark grey cloth interior

    grey exterior,body very straight.

    has done 190k

    open to offers on whole car (do not have time or tools to split)

    I'm in chch

    027 696 2778

    cheers


  11. It's a bit past the getting it on the road stage.. rego dead and too many little bits missing. keen to ditch the whole car though so make an offer

    missing parts:

    right fr guard,

    misc engine bits(nothing below the head)

    central locking solenoid from rear door

    a few of the lights

    front filler panel

    bonnet and boot struts

    glove box broken

    right front strut is bent and calliper half apart

    someone just make an offer!


  12. have a 91 e34 525 that i need to get rid of, o/haled auto box,m50 engine has overheated, a few parts missing/damaged but most of it still there. drak grey interior, diamond schwartz in colour. pretty sure its a jap import,has 190k on the clock. rego dead

    offers around$500

    027 696 2778

    chch


  13. cam shafts have pretty much ground themselves into the head..have removed them but it aint pretty,id imagine it has some severe warpage/cracking if its become hot enough to do that. keen to ditch the whole car now rather than getting out in the cold and removing parts, so if your keen make an offer over $500


  14. hey guys, have most of what i need from my parts car so keen to get rid of the whole thing.

    its a twincam model, cooked engine

    auto supposedly had 3k spent on it although i cant get receipts from previous owner

    darkgrey almost black cloth interior, grey exterior

    98% is still there

    done 190k, i'm pretty sure its a jap import

    flik me a txt or call 027 696 2778

    wanting over $700 so highest offer takes it. must be worth that for the trans alone


  15. hmm sounds like im going to have to live with what i've got for now..

    have done a bit of research on the chip thing and apparently makes a fair bit of difference to the m30, don't think bmw spent alot of time tuning this engine so a chip leans it out a bit and advances timing, and yeah some up the rev limiter by 400rpm. from what i've heard it just gives it alot more throttle response.might give it ago and keep you guys posted, cant be all bad if it leans out a little atleast i'll save coin on fuel haha it's an investment..

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