Boost Junky

Yea man from my understanding there is a difference between m50 & m50tu trigger wheels then the M52 ones are different again which is for sure because I had the M50tu and m52 trigger wheels side by side yesterday, however we mixed them up somehow and do not know which one is on the motor now lol. But its running which is the main thing, I will determine on the weekend which one we are actually using and let you know. Yea such a good feeling!

SOLVED!!! Thankful the DME is not fried

She's alive!!!! Thanks to another Luke blonde moment, seem to have one of these per project I work on. My M50 Turbo I forgot to put the engine earths on, this time I managed to hook the fuel supply/return hoses around the wrong way.. DUH. No wonder the injectors were dry. We also mixed up the trigger wheels today so put the one on we think is from the M50TU, didn't work put the other one on and she fired up straight away! So really not sure which trigger wheel is on the vehicle now? On another note, battery voltage while the motor is running = 11.54V and 11.55V at the alternator, not sure what the issue is here. I know that the main alternator +ve lead goes to the starter motor +ve and from there to the battery +ve. Brushes shot? We are not sure Brent but shall find out thanks. Cool thanks Troy, did you have to use adapter plates when you sloted the holes in the firewall? We have definitely got the E36 M5x arms and pretty sure they are E28 rubber mounts Andy, thanks we shall give them a PM. Thanks for all the help

We are running OBD1 gear inc trigger wheel, only have the original M52 coil packs + injectors. Since when can you not cert copper bundy tube? I've never had issues certing this stuff however its been a good 4 years since my last cert. My previous employer (Partmaster) sells it as does the brake shop across the road, perhaps its only good for cars that are already complied for NZ roads. We have used a E32 735i brake booster which is meant to be the smallest OD booster that bolts up, i'm sorry to say but it still interferes with the intake manifold as did the mkII golf brake booster on my M50 turbo conversion. I rectified this problem by rasing the intake side mount with washers, I just dont understand how no one else has ran into this issue? Either im using the wrong mounts or going crazy... I have had to cut and weld the the rear exhaust manifold then bend it inwards towards the block to get sufficient clearance of the steering arm, still developing my welding skills so made a slight mess of the manifold (doesnt help when someone gives you carbon steel tig rods instead of stainless rods Very close to starting this beast up (hopefully tonight). Attempted this on the weekend but it would not ignite, general theory is that we have the wrong trigger wheel for the crank angle sensor or a fried ECU, here's hopeing not the later. Another interesting issue we have ran into is the gearbox not holding 2nd or 4th gear, we found that the gbox/shifter sits slightly too far back and it touches on the rear of the hole in the tunnel where the shifter comes up into the cabin. I have a suspicious feeling this is due to the 'front on' where some young clowns were drunk and pulled out in front of Jamie one night. Maybe the chasis has buckled/shortened a few mm? Watch this space!

Oh sweet as thanks David, I so hope thats the issue be nice to start her up tonight! Nah its just the single vanos motor Brent I think from a similar donor that your speaking of, might have been a 98 328i though. Yea we have all the m50 electronics minus the coils and injectors which are still m52.

So the M50 Vanos and M52 Vanos trigger wheels are the same then?? I hope not as I have already ordered an M50 Vanos one haha.. Sweet I wont worry about the knock sensors then and will check the fuel pump once over again. I had a descent look on Sunday and yea it was just the 6x 13mm bolts to remove the trigger wheel, piece of piss. Thanks for all your help guys!

Ah my bad. By the way we also havn't got the two knock sensors wired in either, I presume they dont have to be plugged in for the DME to operate correctly. Do the M50's even have knock sensors?

Well no point wasting the rest of my Saturday off then is there Regarding the M50 trigger wheel, has anyone got one for sale and $$$ please? I presume this means removing the crank pulley

Ah so we need an M50 trigger wheel then?

Troy, yep the fuel pump is running. To make sure, we bypassed the Fuel Pump Relay and supplied a constant 12v to the fuel pump while we cranked it over. I better make sure the fuel pump is running (wired up correctly) while turning the motor over, your saying this will confirm whether the DME is getting any kind of crank signal right? I shall pull a plug and check that also. We do not have another BMW to try the DME out in, is there anyone local (New Plymouth) on this forum that may be willing to help? Thanks Troy

David, the motor hasn't been apart. Just looked at the sensors now and there's no way we can accidentally put the cam shaft sensor in place of the crank shaft sensor and vice verso. I'm beginning to think the ECU is goners.

Yes they are M50 crank and cam sensors thanks Brent and I have swapped them around with no success. Oh right I was not aware of that, nah there is no EWS on this system. Oh right, so your saying that the sensor is either incorrect or in the wrong position? The sensors are definitely M50 sensors. Thanks everyone.

Hi all, been a long time =) Ok so I have been installing a M52B28 into Jamie W's E30 face lift. The other day I made the mistake of shorting a main +ve battery wire on the case of the DME. It sparked and marked the case, how would one go about determining if this caused any electrical damage to the DME? We now have the vehicle at the stage of turning it over - The fuel pump has power and is turning over and is supplying fuel all the way up to the injectors. - The starter motor is cranking - ICV is running We have sprayed ether through the intake which seems to ignite so we are getting spark of some sort. We pulled the fuel rail off and cranked the motor over and the injectors are bone dry and nothing is spraying out of them. Also we are running the M50 DME and M50 Engine loom, the only thing that is still M52 is the coil packs and Injectors, are they compatible with the M50 DME? Can anyone suggest a solution here? Cheers, Luke

David - Thanks for that, I shall keep that in mind. Have just ordered an E36 Slave cylinder which comes with a push rod yay. Just need clutch pedal and manual brake pedal now. Andrew - Cheers, I am still on here once or twice a year haha. Well technically yes I am but unfortunately this time not for myself. However I should not count myself as being unlucky.. this project won't cost me a thing finacially and im sure Jamie will let me drive the monster

Hey all, long time no post.. I'm after a few bits and pieces: - E36 Getrag 250 Clutch Slave Cylinder push rod - E30 Manual Pedal Box or just clutch pedal and bolt to add to existing auto pedal box - Clutch fluid hard line that runs between Clutch M/cyl and S/cyl hose - Rubber Clutch Hose from clutch S/cyl to Clutch hard line I know most of you dont like to part full manual conversions so also hit me up with a price on a full manual conversion kit minus the gearbox. Thanks in advance