zenetti

235/45/17's will be fine, the overall diameter is 25mm ( as 3 pedals said 12mm lower, but x2 as you have top and bottom) less than a 235/50, circumference is about 75mm less. You shouldn't have any isues even if the car has been lowered. You are probably best to go with 235/45 rather than 255/40's as this will give you more clearance esp if you are going to 'sack' the car

should bolt straight on with no issues as there is only 1mm difference. I don't think the width of the wheel is any different between the 2 sizes

what is the offset of the wheels, if they are alpina wheels it is strange that they are rubbing. you seem to have the correct size tyres on, if you are based in Auckland, New Plymouth, Wellington or Palmerston North you are welcome to come into our shop so we can have a look at the problem for you.

I think you should be running 235/45/17's all the way round from memory or could go 225/45 and 255/40 if you wanted to.

sold sold sold, went on holiday to queenstown, and gave the car to a dealer friend of mine, came back and it had gone to some guy in Tauranga for the sum of $9800...... pretty stoked!

it has only happened since Channel 7 took over from 10. The AFL started at 2pm Aussie time and so the V8 race was shortened to allow the prize giving to be broadcast. Pretty crap I say, they could have just finished the race and televised the prize giving at half time. You should have heard the chorus of boo's from the grandstands. Was a lot of very disappointed people. I was a bit disappointed in the way the whole 'end of an era' was handled. the commentators just stopped talking and said thanks for coming, see you in Hamo next year. I thought maybe they could have had a couple of laps of honour or something from the supercars and some interviews with drivers etc. It was a disappointing end to a brilliant weekend.

what size tyres are you running? Is it hitting on the front or rear? Do you know what width the wheels are? Which model BMW do you have? Sorry for all the questions, but the more info you give us, the more likely we are to be able to come up with a solution for you.

if you do want longer studs make sure you get them with a 60 degree straight taper. (un)Fortunately we do not stock or sell studs longer then 30mm as you can run into all sorts of legal issues when running spacers. ie the shop that sold the studs can be held liable if you have a crash and it is found that the studs came loose etc.

strictly speaking spacers do not pass a WOF unless they are of a bolt on variety and do not exceed 25mm in thickness and your car has a low volume cert (opens up a can or worms here )

well done that man (3pedals) great to have a constructive conversation (albeit by web) with someone who doesn't get all uptight the moment their point of view is discussed. As allan said he wishes to put the matter to bed now, cheers

Lidstick - you are correct in your tyre size calculations - we put a 225/40R18 on most E36's we do and a 255/35R18 at the rear if we run a staggered setup eg 8's at the front 9's at the rear. the tyre is not too narrow for the rim 8" is about 200mm. Also the CT01 is a touring tyre - designed for comfort and quietness - hence the softer sidewall.

If you were going to be pedantic about your speedo and gearing being out, think about this. A new tyre generally has 8mm of tread and a worn out tyre has say 1.5mm. In effect you have lost 13mm off the diameter of your tyre. That tread that has disappeared will affect the speedo, and gearing etc. Ever wondered why a police officer will generally give you about 10% leeway when clocking your speed.

3pedals - a lower profile performance tyre by nature is always going to be stiffer in sidewall construction than a higher profile tyre so I disagree with your point #3. show me a 35 or 40 series tyre with a 'softer' sidewall than a 50 or 60 series tyre. I also don't think comparing a tyre on your ute to a perfomance tyre is a true comparison. They are designed for toally different purposes.

I also said as a general rule of thumb MOST people and MOST people probably do drive their car to the dairy or to work or whre ever, and are happy to cruise along with factory recommended tyre pressures. We are not all PERFORMANCE ORIENTED drivers. Your opinions are valuable but at the end of the day they are just opinions much like mine and personal experience sets these opinions.

Hopefully they are all taken at face value and not as being a hard and fast rule.

P.S. depending on what you have (car wise) you might consider going up a wheel diameter size and down in profile to reduce your tyre pressures, I found I was losing too much damp/ wet traction at 38 PSI

I don't understand your logic here? going up a wheel size and reducing your tyre pressure? surely when you go up in diameter and the associated tyre profile ( aspect ratio) decreases you would increase your tyre pressure. Maybe I have just misinterpreted what you are trying to say.

As a general rule of thumb if you go from a 16" wheel with a 50 series tyre which most people run at around 32 - 34 psi up to an 18" wheel with a 35 or 40 series tyre you would increase your tyre pressure to 36 - 38 psi as the sidewall is so much less and you need the extra pressure to help prevent sidewall damage, pinch flats uneven tyre wear, etc.

ps: as a general rule of thumb we recommend running 45 series 17" tyres at 36psi on 5 series because as 3pedals said before they are a relatively big heavy car

well..................... car has to go is at $1 reserve on Trade Me

where abouts do you live?, I work for a wheel importer, give me a call and I will try and hook up a deal for you. cheers

Hi guys

have been having a rummage through our warehouse and have found quite a few sets of 15" & 16" E36 & E46 factory alloy wheels, all with reasonably good tyres. There will probably also be E39 and E38 factory alloys. If anybody is interested please let me know and I will upload photos

cheers

Johno

U parting? Got any switches?

no just wanting to flick them off, they are taking up space in the garage, have attached a pic, includes orange indicators

hi , i can give you $120 for the lot .

021433600

you wouldn't be a wrecker by any chance would you? Think they are worth more than that - cheers anyway.

probably can't be complied = no rego = not road legal = track car!!

yes they are genuine bosch items, not quite sure what you mean by wind deflectors

haha I was just thinking the same thing, compare her fingers to ET's and I bet Toni's are longer....... FFRRRREEEAKKKYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

one pair of OEm headlights with orange indicators - off 4 door sedan - no idea what they are worth, make an offer.

one pair of rear OEM taillights - again no idea what they are worth - make an offer

cheers

hey mate

I have some 2nd hand tyres, still on factory alloys. From memory 2 tyres are pirelli, will get all the details on Monday for you, you cxan have them for $300 for all four

there is an engineer here in auckland that does redrill wheels and theninserts a collar. we get it done quite regularly, and it is 100% legal. However saying that we have never gone from 100 to 120. the biggest change we have made is from 114.3 down to 100. It all depends on the type of wheel as well. if you have a cover over the wheel holes it probably can be done. if the holes are 'open' it would look absolutely terrible, you would probably have to get the wheels repainted as well, as the drilling would no doubt 'eat' into the spokes.

having to sell unfortunately, the time has come to buy a house

nice ride!!

how do you find the run flats?

We have just put 97 rated P zero nero on the front of the E39 and they feel significantly better than the 93 rated that came off - time will tell.

The 97 and 93 you refer to is the load index, the higher the number the greater weight they are able to support. this is probably one of the reasons why they feel better.

Also new tyres will always feel better haha