Matty

http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/roadcode/index.html Found it, cheers all!

I'm from Aus and will be here in Auck for a year or two. Want to get my NZ driver's licence, which should be fairly straightforward: you don't need to do a driving test. However you do need to do a written test, presumably on the local road rules. Can anyone tell me what sort of stuff is on the test and whether it's hard/easy or what? cheers, matt

Thanks. All the best with yours.

New (at the time) M3. Spend $100K fixing it and you're still ahead...

I saw this car rebuilt to perfection. Wasn't pretty on the day, high speed track crash, driver walked away though...

The auto in our 330i takes a couple of seconds to shift from reverse to forwards - normal or with worrying about? There's only about 72000k's on it.

A G Bell in "Modern Engine Tuning" (p231) recommends a gearing of 24-27mph/1000rpm for a 3.8-4.2l engine with a 5 speed manual. It's a great book worth taking the advice of. That equates to a final drive of between 3.08 and 3.47. So the 3.23 should be perfect.

1 is for the short wife and 3 is for me Flicking the left/right mirror adjust selector to the right (I think, if not, the other way) will make the left mirror dip when you put the car in reverse. PS is there only 1 rear foglight? Only the right one lights up on my car, does the left one do anything? The bulb looks OK (peering in through the lens as I haven't cracked open the boot lining for a closer look...)

No sh*t. I hate rear foggies.Thanks mate.

That's the ones. One shows the light beams aiming horizontally, and the other shows them aiming down. Both are intersected by a squiggly line.Haven't looked at the back end of the car, so you might be right.

There's a couple of buttons below the headlight knob on the right of the steering wheel. Both have similar "headlamp" icons. Not having an owners manual, I've had to guess at their function. One turns the fog lights on and off, and the other does.... nothing. I'm guessing it's meant to be for driving lights but why have a switch if there's nothing for it to control?

As a short reply, I'll add that there's a hell of a lot more to ECU performance than the raw specifications. Pretty much any ECU on the market can be tuned for the same max power dyno curve, but that's a tiny portion of the mapping, and one where you spend maybe 1% of your road driving time. Fuel economy, emissions, cold start, hot start, transient throttle response, etc etc etc... it's all important to get right. It's not so much a black art as a very very complex system that can take a long time to understand fully. The biggest single factor would probably be the person doing the tuning. Just because someone owns a dyno shop doesn't mean they know what they're doing... Whatever system you choose, look for the best backup support you can get, because you'll almost certainly need it. One trick I've heard is that you can buy a Motec M400, find someone with an M800 to do an auto-tune, and then dump the auto-tune back into the M400 Saves heaps of manual tuning time.

Does the iceLink connect to the cable in the boot, with an extension cable to mount the iPod in a more convenient place? Do you need to set up playlists or can you access all tracks/albums on the iPod? And has anyone compared it to the DICE kit or Neo iOn-1? Planning to get a Phillips HU at some point (thanks for the call Jochen). Please elaborate - is this only if I want to upgrade the speakers?The BSW kit sounds like a nice option which is plug and play and presumably impedance-matched...

Heya BMW fans. Just saw a Bimmersport sticker on Dominion Rd tonight (white E30), thought I'd check out the site. My wife and I recently bought a '00 E46 330i import, I just read about and tried Jochen's tweak but it doesn't work So I might have to contact the man to pick up a ROTW head unit to drop in, I really want to keep the factory appearance rather than a blingy aftermarket HU. Jochen, please email me. Our car also has a factory CD stacker in the boot, which works fine, but we didn't bing over any CDs when we moved from Aus, just an iPod full of music. Will this stacker work with a ROTW head unit? Alternatively (preferably), is there a way to hook up the iPod to the factory HU neatly? (eg whatever the setup "hybid" used in his writeup?) The factory speakers are shite, to put it mildly. Acceptable up high, but nothing down low. Is there an effective replacement (particularly the woofers for more mid-bass) that can be dropped in and work with the oddball factory amp? Lastly, there's a Kenwood nav system taking up space in the boot (GPS sensor on the dash), any way to put this to good use or should we just rip it out and replace with a Navman or similar? cheers all, might see you at Galbraiths some time (I work 2 mins walk form there) matt