Etwenty1

Hi, Do you have a high pressure in-tank fuel pump?

Sucess at last, re-assembled using a good replacement cam sprocket and rotor mount from Ray at Hell BM an it started on the first crank. Thanks to those who gave advice. Especially Gavin who finally cracked it. Cheers

Price reduced to $2,250 New WOF no problems.

I may be ok, the timing mark on the cam sprocket was correctly synced with the crank so it was only the rotor that was out of alignment. That would explain the mis-firing and no start. Anyone have a sprocket and rotor mount plate for sale?

That was it, dowel was not in its hole and upon removal was a good 90 degrees out. What a dumb ass. When i loosened it slightly it must have slipped off the small key/dowel and slipped around. small key way and rotor mount are stuffed. Happy to honour my offer of free beer to whoever guessed it. Whats your preferred brand? I'm off to cry in one now and wonder about bent valves. Cheers

I have double checked the timing marks on both crank and cam sprocket. I did loosen the cam sprocket very slightly to get the belt on then tightened it straight back. It has a key way on the sprocket doesn't it so i can't see how it would get out of whack. Same with the crank sprocket, there is a keyway there too isn't there?

Car now has new dis cap and rotor - no change, cranking over and popping at exhaust. Back on the fuel trail....... Does anyone know how to check the FPR?

FREE BEER Have re-assembled front end and tried again with brand new plugs. Still no go just farts away at the tailpipe. I did crank it for a while before realising i had not reconnected the CPS, plugged that in removed plugs left for half a a day (to dry out) and tried again, this time was popping at exhaust and manifold is warm. Plugs were bit wet. Back to fuel i think, keen to check FPR, general pressure and maybe change fuel?, although all this was running prior to belt change............ Will send beer to however can get me going (12 pack of choice?) no belgian - well.....ok

I agree, its just finding that ******* stupid simple thing!

Yes i have disconnected the lines but after fixing a new pump to my original bracket shes all back the way it was, at the pump end. I'll check it but doubt i have the lines messed up. Changed the fuel filter as well but have checked the "out " end is at the top and it runs to the rail, not the reg. How does one check the injector pulse please? Thanks for the comments.

I have now checked the CPS and the blue/green temp sensor on thermo housing - Both OK

DONT THINK IT IS CPS - I HAVE SPARK BUTS THANKS FOR OFFER

Mine appears to be hard wired at the sensor end then joins a loom under the inlet manifold. How does it disconnect?

TIMING MARKS ARE ALL CORRECT (phew) I'm now thinking i need to gauge check the fuel pressure, find a way to check the CPS - ?,

Ok i now have a high pressure in-tank pump running but car is just popping at the exhaust. Exhaust manifold i getting warm but its not really firing just............pop pop pop at the exhaust. Any suggestions before i dismantle and check timing?

Offers

That may have cracked it..........TBA. Thanks for the suggestions.

My check was only to see that i was not 180 out. I am confident the timing is OK. Was very careful during removal and re-fitting. Just pulled the fuel hose off the rail after cranking for a while and there was no pressure. jumped the FP relay and fuel runs out of the hose but it seems to be under light pressure. I have the FP reglator off, not sure of that makes any diff. IE i ran the fuel hose in to garden hose then into a bucket. I am able to block the end of the hose quite easily and the pressure does not build up. Does anyone know what pressure the fuel shoud be under. The new 2nd hand pump i put in had a larger diameter output hose than mine. I heard that some models have 2 pumps, anyone know if they run at the same pressure?

I am sure the belt is on right. Yep had all the plugs out to make sure it wasn't flooded and did compression test - OK, Gonna check the ECU and CPS then i will have no choice but to strip and check belt again i guess. Oh yeah did i say i drained the fuel and put fresh gas in too?

You are right, the crank turns twice for each revolution of the cam. So on the first rotation the cam is 180 then 360 on the second. I was very careful not to move either whikle changing the belt but if i gues i will have to strip and check if all else fails.

Sorry, I am very sure the timing is correct. I removed the dis cap and kicked the starter until the notch in the cam sprocket was at 12 O clock, looking through a smal mirror then took a peek with a torch down at the crank marks. Without a full dismantle its difficult to be 100% but its certainly not 180 degress out. I did rotate the engine twice and checked marks during original belt change. It all went back together then the fuel pump seized and blew the fuse. Changed for a second hand unit which isnow running but still no go.

Good point, i did check the timing marks at the time and a second check with the dis cap off shows things roughly where they should be. Have swapped ICV, Fuel pump relay and the one next to it with another car and no change. Have re-checked AFM gate mechanisim. I did fingd the collars of the ICV were loose from a re-assebly slip and thought yeah, have tightened up, dried off plugs but still no go. F--K !!! ...... quite frustrating. May have to take to a mechanic. Any ideas? I have fuel, spark and a AFM that opens smoothly.

Continuing on...... i managed to get a 2nd hand fuel pump wired onto my bracket and thats now running. The other pump had just jammed. New pump hums away nicely when i jump the relay and also when cranking. Haven't checked fuel pressure but it smells like gas is flowing. So i now have spark and fuel but still no go. Is there a way to bypass or manually adjust the AFM to check air is getting in? Its not even firing.

Hi, what are the cloth seaqts that you have please. If recoar's i'll be interested. Cheers, Chris

Well maintained, original, $2,250 Service history, We have owned since 07/07 and its been totally reliable. Sailed through WOF today, has a slight oil drip from rocker cover gasket ( have new gasket ) 320i auto cloth interior with motorsport badged seats (not recaro) New WOF - no work required fog lights body is in very good condition paint is in very good to excellent condition interior is very good condition dash has a couple of cracks electric windows all work well does not use oil or water tyres traeds are all 5mm 14' basketweaves and 4 good centre caps 254kms cambelet done a 222k rear shock replaced 2 years ago drives very well