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Etwenty1

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Everything posted by Etwenty1

  1. I have a '91 e30 320i, 4 door same colour as your pic, 14" basket weaves, fogs, very tidy all round, A/C is not working and a minor bit of rust on the edge of the rear valence. Cambelt done a while back, good tyres. If you are interested i can send some pics. Daily runner WOF and rogo all good. Ex Oamaru car owned by an old fella with good service records. Cheers, Chris
  2. I hope this is Kosha listing......... I have bought a bonnet and some calipers from a member in Wellington and had arranged for a mate to collect. Unfortunatley that fell through so if anyone is able to pick these items up from Johnsonville and deliver to Tauranga or Hamilton sometime this month?? Petrol $$ on offer. Cheers
  3. Both metal lines same diameter please. Cheers
  4. Looks like a pump issue. Have spark, 12v to the pump, with relay jumpered the pump just gives a heavy click but doesn't run.I read that an e36 (318i) pump can be fitted onto the original e30 pump bracket. Is that right anyone? Alternatively i am now in the market for another 2nd hand unit. Cheers
  5. I have a good spark and plenty of juice in the battery but look like i have no fuel. I replaced the fuel pump only weeks ago with a 2nd hand unit. Is that just Murphy's law or is there a fault that can burn out fuel pumps?
  6. Cheers for that, that fuel pump fuse hasn't blown again. When i un-bolted the sensor the plug stayed on, i just put it to one side. I did notice a "spare " connector up under the inlet manifold between the iVC and the brake booster. Is that the one you mean?
  7. Just got a 1990 e30 325i going that had been sitting for a while. Runs good but no cambelt records so changed the belt and tensioner (my 2nd belt but 1st on a FL 325i) All good, timing marks checked cranks over but no go. Got a flooded smell after a lengthy crank. Checked connectors and all good. Cranked again but no go and no fuel smell. Thought that i would check fuel, spark, air. Checked fuse 11 (Fuel Pump)and its blown. Changed fuse but still no go. Items are on my mind, 1) that the lead to the crank sensor (to the side of the flywheel is a bit short and maybe this wire is brittle and broke? It was a struggle to get it clipped back onto the upper cover. 2) i sprayed a bit of carb cleaner into the AFM body to clean some oily residue. (now dry) 3) I have the winscreen washer pump out and sitting in the bay(dont really think that would be an issue apart from shorting out somthing else on that circuit?) 4 why would that fuse blow. Car was running sweet just prior - only other issue is its runs a new battery flat over 1-2 weeks sitting. Was due to check relays. I will start testing stuff but thought someone may have been here before.....? Just took AFM body out and checked it was all dry but still no go. Suggestions please. Cheers
  8. :bowdown: Is this for a 4 door and what is your asking price?
  9. Hi, what price are you asking?
  10. Well, all four calipers looking rusted and full of spiders. Tried to loosen up each corner with some sucess. Bled system and pedal has improved but not coming right up- is below level of brake switch so lights are always on...road test gave improved brake response but still only 70% also the pedal needs to be lifted up a couple of inches after each braking to release brakes. If i remove the calipers will i be able to tell the diff' between the caliper pins or the pistons sticking? Do pads deteriorate with age? Am thinking of rebuilding calipers........ Comments please.
  11. Thanks for that, just starting to have a poke around. The pedal comed up slightly as engine starts and booster comes comes on but have removed panel above pedal and found some wacky job with cable ties holding on what looks like the brake switch..................TBA
  12. Have picked up a 1990 325i SA spec e30 which has been sitting for a couple of years. Brakes are stuck on about 20% and the pedal is quite close to the floor with poor response. Pedal can be lifted back up into position so its like there is low fuild pressure but fluid is between min and max. Idle is pretty good considering, around 800 rpm with a very slight surge but not enough to move the tacho. I would appreciate some advice on likely probs or sensible starting points. What is the mechanism that releases the pad from the rotor? Booster? Cheers
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