gps289

Hi Jono, Keen to take the box off your hands. Shoot through your number or give me a call on 027 4724 211 Cheers Grant.

Hi Steve, We keep about 400 different rack ends in stock and have dimensions on every one. If you know thread diameter / pitch for both ends and overall length (centre inner pivot ball to outer end) we can match something "out of the box" 90% of the time. I'll get the shock options that I was discussing with Barry over to you shortly too. Cheers Grant.

14 or 15" weaves?

Hi looking for some 15" Simmons outers. Either 3" or 4" will work. (20 bolt hole type). PM or call / text on 027 472 4211. Cheers Grant.

I've got some space available (Auckland) dry, secure etc etc, pm me or give me a call on 027 472 4211. (may have to leave a message though) Cheers Grant.

Hi guys, looking for an E30 coupe shell as a donor for Manfeild accident repair. Either complete rolling body, rear half or LH rear quarter and complete taillamp / rear valance panel. If you've got something suitable PM me or call 027 472 4211 (may need to leave a message and I'll get back to you) Cheers Grant.

E30 boss kit to suit Momo style wheel - $50 looks just like this one but to suit an e30. Hi Ash, I'll take the Boss Kit off your hands. Can you pm me your contact details. Cheers Grant.

Common misconception. Bilstein have probably the smallest shaft diameter of all the good performance brands. What you see in most cases is what's called the "spear". Think of a typical strut insert (like an E30) turned upside down with the outer body polished. That's what you're seeing. The shafts are normally only around 12mm diameter and are on the inside of the housing. You'll normally find a small nut at the bottom which holds the shaft in place. They also supply some applications with the more traditional shock at the bottom / shaft out the top design eg; E30 rears etc. Which design's best is another subject altogether!!

Hi Angus Here's how it works 1. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR 2. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR If you're wanting something that's going to work in a race car that's actually being used as a race car then talk to the guys who are actually racing them for advice. It's fair to say that you could bolt any ABC XYZ or whatever brand in and it'll feel OK. Important thing though is longetivity and reliability. Biggest mistake regularily made is to spend 2K on something unknown to save a grand, to then find a year out you're up for 3 1/2K for propper replacements because what you bought is damaged / non rebuildable. Ultimately spending 5 1/2K instead of 3 1/2K in the first place. Now that aint economical!!! Broad Guidelines Adjustable will be beneficial over non adjustable (valving that is) however be cautious of brands that use a simple bleed adjuster. These are the ones that adjust both bump and rebound at the same time. You don't really want the bump to be adjusting all the time when you're trying to balance rebound control. Number of adjustments between min and max is often a marketing tool. The higher the number the more wary to be. You should always have ANY BRAND dyno'd to determine adjustability range and how many changes does what?? Most Japanese / Taiwanese spec shocks are over valved, causing you to chase spring rates when the problem is actually the shocks. Non servicability is then your issue. Going coil over is a minimal cost over E30 control suspension and worth the price (probably adds another $300) as it allows for ride height adjustment as a means of balancing car set up. Even a 5mm increase / decrease has a significant effect on the balance between oversteer / understeer. And 3. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. If you're serious about a good set up at a good price PM me.

Hi, Banking $90 this morning (will go for 1 set of blank surrounds also) cheers GPS289. p.s. Address is Auckland not Wellington cheers.

Are we allowed to imagine Milan driving it too ??????

All comes down to valving really. Either can be valved to suit any required conditions. From a road car point of view either work well, with Koni's having the advantage with the ability to fine tune rebound control to suit individual requirements. BUT f**k your ride up with stupid ride heights (idiot low) and the resulting lack of shock travel will make neither perform as designed. I've lost count of the number of times i've heard "brands" rubbished due to problems caused by other components. Now from a race car point of view (talking circuit here) there's no comparison. YES Bilsteins can be revalved to suit what you are trying to achieve, but any big change of direction in spring rate, swaybar size, unsprung weight etc will mean another revalve. All good if someone has already done the development on your type of car and combination but if not expect to pay around $200 (per shock) for every re-valve. This is where Koni's adjustability comes into its own, with both single adjustable (rebound) and double adjustable (bump and rebound) able to be manufactured for most applications. Quite often a short term gain ($$) can turn out to be a long term pain!! As is often quoted "developments in Motorsport filter down to volume products" KONI in F1 = B.A.R, Williams, Renault, McLaren Bilstein in F1 = ?????? (Note: Any bias shown above is purely intentional )

Any chance front sway bars still around??

WTB E34 LH Front door. Just need door glass really, but I'm guessing a second hand door's pretty cheap now so probably easier to just swap over complete door? Factory black one needed, or a damaged one in a different colour and I'll change the glass over. cheers Grant.

We are now looking at a mid-June shipping date, and hopefully here BEFORE Speedshow. Hi "everything comes to those who wait"!! Any chance of an updated list of those who've pre-ordered a set? I should be down for one set (6) golds? just want to make sure!! Cheers Grant.