Five Star

Around 200 give: Boston S60, Alpine SPS-600C, Hertz DSK 165, DLS K6, DLS B6A, Jaycar Precision Response Kevlar Splits.

Those should be the latest models, and will come with a matching tweeter to suit the speakers. I prefer the bostons

Each will sound different to different people, so see which one YOU like. If you find the mid-bass lacking make a template of the holes in the door, and fill them with painted 3 or 6mm mdf held in place by strong tape. It'll make a world of difference.

You'll also be able to get lower than RRP quite easily, especially if you mention them being cheaper pretty much everywhere on the net.

Good luck!

Found a good e21 to use yet?

Thanks for the 731 head ray!

Sorry, I'm not from auckland and had no idea how far away northshore was from the uni...

It's worse than I remember...

I'll give you a call monday glen, but if anyone can give me any hints before that that'd be much appreciated....

Cheers

Tom

NZice aint too bad. Well, for the deals anyway

Anyway I figure I might add a little more.

Sound deadening is the way to go. Although BMWs have a lot of this sorted. Go for the doors, and work your way up. Dynamat extreme is known to be the best for price and you should be able to pick up a bulk-pack for $300-350.

Sub-bass isn't truely non-directional. Just far, far harder to tell than other frequencies. The more your fronts can play bass (3 three ways, even) the better.

Increasing mid-bass will change your system completely. If you're too cheap to sound deaden your doors, just block the holes in the door with mdf cut (and painted) to size and a lot of tape. It'll make a world of difference.

Oh, and never block off the drain holes in the bottom of your door. Unless you like rust...

I'll put up tutorial links for these later.

The local engine rebuilders tested my old head for cracks, and found them, for 20 or 30 bucks..

Most headlight dimming due to subs is usually because of insufficient grounding. Upgrading the battery ground and the amp ground generally solve this (plus, it's cheap as chips). After grounding upgrading the power wire to the amp and alt is the next step if problems are still there. Next is battery. After that you're either looking at an upgraded alt, a cap or living with it..

If SPLers don't need caps, you don't.

I've been on MEA far too long...

If you give me a price range I can give you a list of components and coaxs for you to have a listen to and see which one suits you.

It'll be great!

I'm sure there'll be a meet-up around then.. I wouldn't feel so bad turning up without a car if there's a few of us haha

Yes you get cheap passes, they offer them for around 100 for a season pass in o-week. I'll get an exact price tomorrow...

If you do it smart you don't hurt yourself that much... although these guys do.

I'm not sure what hills they use, there's a few around uni but they tend to go driving to some better ones. The one botanical garden hill by gardies new world is OK, but there's a few better ones.

And I'm all up for a students-without-cars meet. I'm trying to get the funds to bring mine down, but can't even afford the petrol to drive it down right now...

Edit- Oops, 335 for a cadrona season pass during o week. And they use opoho hill currently.

One of my flatmates and a couple mates are into it, and they think it's amazing.

Wheels go very quickly though, and so do you if you go too hard too early

If you like snowboarding you'll love it. Just wear pads to start off with, if you want to make summer.

I'll have a go after exams and let you know

...You can supply a e21 LSD??

Brother reversed into something in my Dads car. Price is more of a factor but still want it done once and right.

Gotta love that stupidly high pass rate due to NCEA.

That school which gave out NCEA credits for picking up rubbish?

NCEA is a joke, it better be changed asap...

Welcome! I look forward to spotting your car in hastings

Not really, as I've heard the system.

I'm not saying it's bad, far from it.. I'm just saying you can get better.

Does anyone know of a place in the Hawkes Bay that will stock the socket?

Repco, supercheap and partmaster didn't stock the 10mm torx socket when I was last up.

A 12mm hex worked to get the bolts off, but I won't dare use that for putting them on...

Yes, and a decent aftermarket system will be far better.

There's a reason BMW sell cars and the likes of alpine, boston, DD sell car audio.

Each to their own (audio budget)

ALCP only want the pot freed.

Party pills are nasty things anyway..

Also, you won't need a cap. Just upgrade your grounds. Far cheaper too

To upgrade the sound, replace speakers only. No need to replace the high quality sophisticated BMW amplifier.

Bahahaha.

Got a budget? I suggest the jaycar splits as normal for someone on a budget. And for the love of god, go aftermarket.

That's weird, I used to have my location in...

I'll be working on in the car in hawkes bay from the 20th onwards, but I live in dunedin.

I'll have access to a torque wrench.

Hi,

I need to find a socket to tighten up the headbolts on my m20b20. Any ideas where to find one?

Repco said they wanted $80 for a set which it was in, but I'm a poor student...

Cheers,

Tom

Try ray (Hellbm, forum sponser).

Do it once, do it right. I've got a 4 speed in my e21 320/6 and it's great. But give me the option of a 5 speed (sport maybe? ) and I'd probably take it.

I've seen 5 speeds offered on trademe recently from e21 wrecking cars. I'd have taken them if I had the time/money.

If you get stuck chuck a post on http://www.bmwe21.net/forum/ and hope for a reply. They know everything and anything when it comes to e21's, and you'll find write ups on changing dif's (to e30 and e12 5 series.. and everything else). I'm a bit rushed for study, otherwise I'd link you right there.

Just remember most e30 parts won't fit in an e21 without some modification.