Jump to content

Jacko

Members
  • Content Count

    3360
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    96

Posts posted by Jacko


  1. 6 hours ago, Vass said:

    So this guy got cert for just the wheels & spacers? Does look a nice setup though.

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/4720878572?bof=DWbwwFsI

    I "think" this is a car a looked at a few years ago for someone on here, at the time it had a bird sh*t welded 120 back box on it, dead clutch throwout bearing, and the rear arches were chewed out and cracked paint from poor fitment. Trying to find pics I took to confirm rego.

     

    • Like 1

  2. I dont know why they exist personally, looks fast, but is slower than a 1st gen nissan leaf, whilst using the same amount of gas as what should be the base model, the 325.... and on top of that the engine is a complete lemon. 

     

    So you really got to ask yourself - Why?

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

  3. 12 hours ago, Jadon said:

    Since listing my car three weeks ago, I’ve had multiple offers for 5k. Is that really all they are worth now? I spent almost double that a year ago to buy the car and back then they were getting snapped up before I could get a look at them. 
    I want a manual 130i and I’m starting to think going towards a manual conversion might be the better option for me. Does anyone have any experience with the swap? 

    130 prices in NZ are all over the place, low ballers gonna low ball, tell em to FOFF. Expensive gas prices, cost of living etc here driving all the prices down... yet at the same time Japanese stock is dwindling and new emissions will stop them being imported shortly and they'll start going back up again as get rarer as people stack em/wreck em. 

    It'll cost you probably 4k in parts to convert, the manual boxes appear to be worth a lot.  


  4. Throw Penrite Progear 75w90 in the box and bobs ya uncle, only real downside is you have to be deliberate and slow when shifting if its freezing out and box is cold, after a minute or so its fine and continues to be even when hot. 

    • Like 2

  5. Yeah Ive had Valeo single mass in mine for nearly 100,000km, change the gearbox fluid and its perfectly fine, stock fluid results in chatter when warm. Feels more "sporty" than stock as Matt says, its not like a truck clutch or anything, just more like an old school clutch with none of the self adjusting nonsense. Has been dumped and kicked many times, its easily up the job. 

    I have replacement Valeo clutch kit for it to go in when engine gets swapped, took ages to find it (during covid in saying that)


  6. 4 hours ago, NZ_InFerno said:

    I also washed mine last weekend, needed it! 

    Have you enquired with BDS about their filter/intake pipe combo? Quoted me 320 pounds, for about a 15hp gain over a K&N filter with stock pipe which is pretty decent for a bolt on. 

    I kinda want to see pictures of it, hes really cagey about it. Im dubious, and if its 320 pounds for some 2" alloy pipe segments welded together would be less than impressed.


  7. Gave mine a wash in the weekend, sitting at 297,000km... need to get that last 3000 before the new lump gets in. 

    Been hunting endlessly for a Simota airbox, cant find anything, looks like no longer available... once the MILVs/Tune/Headers are in its about all thats left on the list (short of that BMWP wheel with the digital read out...) The GruppeM intakes are available, but from what Ive seen first hand not really worth the price 😕 

    420426478_10159370062432693_9012547506480308808_n.jpg

    434593897_10159370062207693_1954214015996788277_n.jpg

    420405018_10159370062147693_8241835085119418780_n.jpg

    • Like 9

  8. Kayne recommends 75W140 in them FWIW, mine has Royal Purple 75W140 in it and touch wood all is good and the Quaife is a happy chappy (Quaife recommend 75W90). I ran Penrite progear 75W90 for nearly 150,000km and had no issues, but, did have pinion bearing die (it had 290,000km on it though)

     

×
×
  • Create New...