Justlikemusic

No, the editor I ended up getting to work was the link i got from ya and I should be able to use that to tell me where the maps are on the bin file. however, megasquirt it is. Motronic is too much messing about for a flap afm.

By the time u buy a SAFC2 for $250ish you are looking at Megasquirt money. I have looked into developing Motronic software, but even with a wideband o2 you need a eprom emulator to burn on the fly. However u can datalog with the wideband, but megasquirt is just so much better.

M30 AFM is a common swap on M20's... big difference in size. Google M30 AFM E30 or something.... heaps of info. I think you can use any AFM with the last digits 021 or 020 or something like that. Research it through google.

I hear they don't have enough puff... M60 ftw. The SC14's are a bit small, arent they?

Definately a jam to stick it in there... I like the back shot, same as what Im gonna get mine to look like.

Wow E30 Wagons look gangsta.

The problem I see now is tuning. If I run an air/fuel mixture gauge, then I want this matched with rpm so I can adjust it as finely as possible. I guess I'll have to look into this more with the Motronic editor... but I'll buy an EPROM writer this week.

Update! Ok Car is now off the road... full swing baby. I removed the air cond compressor and bracket... also took the exhaust off and flipped it upside down to see what it would be like. I am going to be running into a tight fit if I use an adapter when it comes to running this 3" internal wastegate stainless dump pipe I have here. Now comes the decision about exhaust manifold. The ebay ones and others seem like they mount the turbo right up near the radiator... whereas with the manifold flipped, I can easily weld a T3 flange onto those two pipes and mount the turbo exactly where I want it, up closer towards the front of the shock tower. The radiator overflow will probably be remade, or at least definately relocated. The coil I have a MSD Blaster coil which I will fit there. I have decided to tune to the Motronic also. So I wll get an EPROM Programmer later this week. That should arrive next week, and by that time I should have most of the boost bolted up with the stock head read for a start. Until I find an 'i' head I will be boosting stock engine at 7psi. The engine doesn't rev over 4500rpm anyway, so with the right engine management and careful attention it should be fine for a bit of weekend fun.

Is there anywhere I can get shared .bin files? Megasquirt is going to be better for the amount of people that are actually running these... but with education and tuning, I think tuning the Motronic will be just as good since there is ignition and fuel adjustment within it already.

Yea the valve is broken... the head looks stuffed. Probably a waste of money. I'm just going to wait. Thanks for the advice.

I just spoke with someone who has a E34 325i with a broken timing belt. Apparently just one of the valves is broken... I am probably a fool for considering it, but I can get it for like $1000. I don't want the body, but probably could sell it for $200 to scrap metal once I was done stripping it. I like my E30 more than E34's. Power to weight ftw. He wanted to sell it complete, but I wonder if I should ask him if I could remove the head bolts to look underneath? What are the likeliness of one valve messing up the head and cracking it? I have seen some cars break belts and be ok like the old Fiats etc lol... although I know most cars that = death.

I have just downloaded a Motronic editor ...and then read this: http://home.comcast.net/~russelc/dme/dmetune.htm ... and now am wondering if I really (initially controlling boost with factory wastegate at 7psi) need the Megasquirt straight away. I will boosting with stock head until I find a 325i head... which is proving to be difficult here in West Australia. It would be only for a couple 1/4 Mile runs though, maybe 5-6. I got three meets before the season closes, and I think I'll get to the last one, maybe two... just for some fun. After that the car will have the head redone, megasquirt installed for higher boost (If needed?)... otherwise I forget about it and just do it all properly now. Only thing I have to make up now on the dodgy is manifold adapter which takes probably half an hour to mount the turbo. The rest of the install i have to do anyway. Is there anyone that can provide further reading for Motronic adjustment or even whether it is worth it or why. Alot of people say ditch the factory ECU, but after reading what it can do... it seems that it has the fuel and timing map adjustment capabilities that I need as a novice tuner. I have searched, and will continue to search. While I'm at it... what Microcontroller chip does the Motronic 1.0 use? Also, these EPROM Programmers cost between $50-100 Surely I can use this to edit the ECU settings. http://www.futurlec.com.au/PicProg.jsp

It's a Citizen! Cheapest nice gold watch u can get, lol Yea Youtube is what made me turbo it. Honestly. 340hp in an e30 must really boogie... I am half happy thrashing the eta stock! I can launch from lights pretty good and slap second screetch the back wheels and that gets me off a little :/ However Silvias beat me by a little bit, hardly anything in it until third gear when they just start pulling away until I get into power range on third in the eta. Me running 7psi would mince them though. I am looking at these Motronic editors at the moment... and it seems like I can do the same thing with a Motronic editor... perhaps It might pay to not worry about the Megasquirt just yet. I downloaded this: http://www.atlantisconsultingllc.com/atlan...tronic%20Editor And just read this: http://home.comcast.net/~russelc/dme/dmetune.htm Now I'm not sure what a eprom burner is worth, but I previously worked at Altronics, and have connections within the industry, so surely it can't be that expensive?

Heh... nearly two weeks later I got now... Garret T03 turbo with 7psi internal gate (Thankyou R33 skyline ) All my Intercooler piping - going to run 2.5" the whole way. 3" Stainless mandrel bent dump while will run to the 3" hi-flow cat, which will run to a split 3" system out the rear. I will be running a cat and no mufflers at the start, then I might upgrade to mufflers later! Now just to make my mind up on the Megasquirt or Link ECU. I'd rather the Megasquirt and get a base tune then copy someone's setup and go from there, but the Link is good if I get in trouble and need someone to tune it for me. I don't think it's that hard to learn. I downloaded the LinkPlus software, and it seems pretty easy and good to work with, and the aftermarket support of the Megasquirt seems great. And it's half the price. Also if I solder it together I know what components go where so its easy to replace parts if need be. Pics will come tomorrow, got to go to work!

Megasquirt II w/stim $400 GReddy eManage Ultimate $650 Link I seen most for like $1300~ if they are $1kNZ then thats like $880aud and with its reputation I think it's what Im going to end up with. Alot of tuners here wont touch the megasquirt also btw. They all recommend Wolf 3D or Microtech mainly.

That's twice as much as a megasquirt, however I'm now beginning to realize it's going to be worth paying someone to tune this for me once it's done. With the Megasquirt I can use someone else's base map then play around with it, however I guess it might be easier to just get it done professionally. The other option I am looking at is the GReddy eManage Ultimate piggyback style ecu's with ignition and fuel. I think this is basically what I need... the emanage has so many features for a piggyback system, and the Motronic is pretty decent for a factory ecu. I think this is going to be the most single biggest factor in my build, and due to not being able to find a 325i head very easily, I can tune for 7psi with factory wastegate on the Garret T03 I bought... from a family R33 Skyline sedan with 100,000km's on it. The guy took the turbo off before he even drove it. I also got a wicked stainless 3" Mandrel dump to the cat also... coming together well. Edit: I just remembered the BIG FLAP... omg standalone It's gotta be I guess. I will pay money if I have to... however I really like to research for 'the best deal' without being a wanker to businesses ... like we all do. I use to work selling 4wd equipment, and it would sh... me when people didn't buy anything lol.

Will these rims fit my E30? I am unsure of the offset! They are for sale, $200 http://i18.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/e0/7a/5950_1.JPG 4 x CSA 16" Alloy Rims / Mags, made in Australia by Mullins Wheels 6.5J x 16H2 rim offset With Veritus HRII 205 / 45 / 16 low profile tyres

Nope, never even heard of it. The Megasquirt seems the way to go right now. It's under $300 for what I need. I'll do a bit of research on that ECU. The West Oz dealer is like 5 minutes from my place. Also... there are always cheap piggyback ecu's on ebay here... there is one there at the moment for like $1 and 1 day left on it with one bid... however, it is to suit a different type of vehicle and a four cylinder. I think they are universal and that I can just reset it back to stockand wire it to my pc? Also noticed you worked in the industry, what am I looking at in terms of pricing for a Link ECU?

http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965 Will this be OK for my Turbo 327i install? I can pick up one second hand used for a SR20DET for $200... just unsure on the tuning. Maybe I am better off with a Megasquirt which has been proven. Alot of Australians are telling me to go with something that can be tuned at a shop... like a Haltech/Wolf3D... however I think Megasquirt is the way to go. Just ordering from America is a pain in the...

I got a magnaflow muffler for free yesterday. Also managed to get some paper stacks too, so the turbo conversion is going to be in full force soon. Us beema boys, that's how we roll... rubberband banks!

Ok full nolathane bush kit it will be. Apparently the shocks were just changed recently. They feel good and tight. What I am thinking is changing the springs, and bushings. I think the jelly-ness is the bushes which have crapped themselves over the couple weeks I've had the car

http://www.alpinaaustralia.com.au/dyno/dyno_E30_M20_325e.htm Most of that 20kW's is probably from the Chip though... I do believe there is gains from a bigger TB however. Whether it be making the car feel faster, or actually making it faster, that TB thats on there from factory is really pissy.

I unfortunately never really reached the point of actually bothering with suspension. Had a couple worked cars and stock ride hide and suspension, just concentrated on power and boat into and out from corners. The Eta definately needs a locker in the rear for the dry and corners... from launch I can LSD launch, however going around corners its single dirty open wheeler burnout. I guess it's the strut brace and sway bars that make the car not feel like jelly? It feels like the back end is alot crappier than when I first bought it. I got a month left of licence and have been caining the poor 325e. The steering rack at full lock makes a little noise also. But meh, even if it is full rebuild. At the end of the day I dont think I can find a better car that I like with the features of the E30 for the size. I want racecar!!

Both of that definately taken into consideration already. I think the figure was somewhere around 8.3:1 for the B25 head on the B27 block. That will suffice for now. No idea of what boost it will cop but around 14psi or so will make me a very happy man till the bottom end gets old.

I read that the 325e's were beefier than M3's... 325e(pre 9/86): Front: 18.5mm Rear: 12mm Omg I got a 1/86 325e... I gotta upgrade these bushes so might as well do the complete bar too. List is very helpful, thanks.