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I got a new, assembled rad from Abel Smith Radiators in Wellington for about $380. It works.

So what happens if you fit an M52 manifold onto an M50 325i?

As it happened.... 1. Your car sounds like you have blown some exhaust baffles. (In the words of someone following me at Manfield, "it sounds like you're dragging something along the ground") 2. It sounds like a V8 on even minor throttle openings. Think that you have main bearing problems? 3. After accelerating hard and backing off (overtaking etc.) the revs refuse to die for a second or two. Yes, this is embarassing. 4. Large puddles of trans fluid under the car. All this has taken about 6 months to eventuate.... You need at least a new torque converter, it maybe time for a new (used) box or even a manual conversion! Jo PS I have a replacement Jatco box now, and the car is fast, quiet, and smooth. Happy again.

For an E36 323i forget the inlet filter, go for the M50 manifold conversion. Lots of posts on it, either use the multi hose clip version (cheap), or go for the Turner Motorsports conversion. That is if you want more power rather than more noise..... Jo

I had a problem like this on a Honda Accord, and it drove me nuts. I eventually realised the petrol filler aperture had been repaired without a sealant between it and the rear wing, and it only leaked when the water ran directly over it (parked at an angle, or at 100kph!). Worth a look. Jo

From experience.... After removing the fuel rail (amongst lots of other things) on my 328, when I had carefully marked which fuel line went to which pipe on the rail: I plugged them back in. Note that without a lift (access from underneath), assembling from the top, with the fuel rail already bolted down....you can't see what you're doing. So the marking that were so carefully applied are invisible. Added to that, when your arm has been inserted in the too small space under the manifold so you can at least (painfully) feel the fuel hoses and the rail pipes, you get to the point where any hose on any pipe is a win. Beware! Although the connections are identical, have no markings whatsoever, and no difference in length etc., it DOES MATTER which one goes where. If you get it wrong there is no fuel pressure. No fuel pressure means no nice noise. In my case this turned my previously lovely E36 coupe into a very expensive garden ornament. Thanks to Dion the towie and Mike the mechanic for getting it going again. PS, I read the manuals, searched the web, and no-one said it mattered. Hopefully if you are searching too, you'll find this and learn.... Jo

Remove the panel above the drivers footwell, and feel in the forward centre of the car for a knob that's about 30mm diameter (near the firewall). Turn it counterclockwise, a cover about 100mm x 20 mm should fall off. The pollen filter has a tab on which you pull, it bends into sections so you can worm it out. Snap the new one so it hinges and work it into the housing. It takes 15 minutes to replace once you know how to do it.....Jo

Thanks guys The oil has been replaced regularly (last time about 6 months ago), and the computer reset, so it's probably on it's way out. I don't have any other problems, no jerks etc, it's a real sweetie otherwise... As it's OK on left handers (pulls like a train) and the oil level shouldn't be low (no leaks) I'm assuming that it's a valving problem that can't take the g level - in one direction only. Higgins is a banked corner, so it can load up the suspension a bit. Cheers Jo

Has anyone else come across this problem? At Manfield yesterday, my 328 E36 was accelerating fine out of left handers, (e.g the hairpin) but on high g right handers, especially Higgins, it's short shifting from 2nd to 3rd at about 4,800 rpm. Normally it will run to 6,600rpm before a change, when it's in sport mode. I can stop it doing it, but I have to take a really slow line... Any ideas? Cheers Jo

Jeff Gray BMW. I sure hope they have a brain, if not there's a direct link from the diag tool to one in Germany.....

Thanks for the replies, guys. I got it hooked up to diagnostics, and absolutely no fault found. I did discover that when you're at the head of a queue of traffic that's honking at you it's difficult to remember to put it into park.....so that was the unable to crank problem solved (stupidity!) Still don't know why it stopped though. Jo

So there I was waiting for the lights to change and the engine stopped. Tried to restart, I had dash lights but no cranking. As I was at the front of the queue, some helpful people pushed it around the corner into a parking space. I tried it again - and it started! I suspect that I need to threaten a relay with replacement... Anybody know offhand what the problem is? Details - 97 328i coupe, auto box, Imported. Cheers Jo

Thanks for looking! Mine don't rock off the strut either - it's only when they are mounted to the strut that they move. I've refitted the mounts with the new Koni struts and springs and they seem OK - I'd just like to try a new one.... PS boy do the Konis improve turn in and grip..... Still waiting for the rear shock mounts to arrive from BMW Auckland. I'm using E46 M3 parts, not bothered about the Z3 strengthening plates at the moment as they are ex-Germany. Jo

The Konis have just arrived so I've stripped off the old struts. The top mount bearings don't have any side to side movement., and they spin OK, but they do rock about 2mm. Is this normal, or do I need new bearings? The rubber looks perfect, no cracks. Thanks! Jo

The DICE unit plugs into the CD changer cables...you'd need a multi-pole switch to change over and maybe need to reboot the radio (= disconnect battery) to get the radio to recognise the DICE unit. Installing the DICE is easy, provided you have a BMW radio, and don't mind losing your CD changer. If you want one, I have an unused one in Wellington....PM me if you want any more info or want to trade. Jo

Dion Cains has moved around the corner as Fast Lane Tyres - he can balance, but still takes the car to what was Taranaki St. tyres for alignment. Must have been all that driving on wet grass that put it out !

Tried Turners, but otherwise it's difficult to find sources for Koni in the US. Any Ideas?

I called Stocks and got a very indifferent response - $1508 +GST for the dampers only, no springs. So for me Demon Tweeks is still $250 odd cheaper, and I get a set of springs too.....

Unused DICE Ipod converter, bought for E36 but will suit 3 series 96-03 (not Ti), 5 series 97-03, 7 series ? -03 X3 04-07, X5 00-08, Z3 96-02, Z4 00-07 M roadster 99-07, M-Coupe 99-07 M3 96-06 M5 00-03 Z8 00-03 It plugs into the CD changer cables in the boot. Enough cable to get the unit behind the dash (they are long...) Note that you MUST have a BMW Business or Professional sound system without SatNav. I have a BMW supplied VDO head unit and it won't work with it - hence the sale. (It does do everything that it's supposed to , except get recognised by the head unit which will only work with VDO CD changers) Price $175. Jo 021 243 5009

Whatever you do don't buy Gur pads. Some clown had fitted them to my 328 during compliance. They don't stop the car, they need warming up, and they wear the disc extremely fast. In the WET at Manfield they wouldn't even engage the ABS. Recognition - white painted backs with GUR on them and made in India. Nuff said? Jo PS I use OEM and wash the wheels a lot. They work.

Price from Demon Tweeks for the full Koni Kit is GBP398 + GBP102 to ship. Approximately NZD1,265. Jo

I'm currently running a Sachs suspension kit on my E36 Coupe (50 front, 30 rear) and it needs replacing (worn strut). I'd like to raise the front a little to avoid grounding on speedbumps etc, and also so that I can fit a crossbrace. The current handling is terrific, and I want to keep it that way, but maybe a bit softer on the back for ride comfort. I'm slowly working through all the suspension packages, and the choice has narrowed to H + R springs (40/40) and B8 Bilsteins, or a Koni suspension kit which includes Koni springs (also 40/40, and with adjustable front rebound on the dampers). I'm looking at Bilstein B8s because of the lower springs - they have a shorter shaft. Are there problems with B6s with this setup? (B8s not in stock in NZ at the moment!) The prices are about the same - with the Koni kit sourced from the UK a little cheaper......(and that includes horrendous shipping) Use is road and occasional track days. Any experience with either setup (or better?) out there? Cheers Jo