matrox02

Hey All, I need to sell my Bmw...Sadly.. mainly because its too nice to take on the beach for my moto-x and boating ventures So here I am listing my 520i Indevidual that I have had a m50b25 engine swapped into Running standard everything otherwise, the only mods iv done are a metal thermostat housing , it however has a brand new water pump and thermostat and radiator and runs like a champion, doesnt use any coolant or oil Its Auto 5hp18 box, Nappa Leather seats in red ( really sought after in the american market apparently) and generally in tidy condition, the only faults with the gas struts not holding the bonnet and the boot open and the read left door not locking properly ( intermittent ) and the window is the same on that door, the front bumper does have the bottom cracked, I do have a brand new bumper for it that will come with the car, it just needs to be prepped painted and fitted. Im asking for $3000 for the car, as it would mean im braking even witht he conversion, which I think is reasonable Pics: Otherwise other info on Trademe! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=683955552 Oh and Contact Details: Matthew H ; 09 2788683 / 0226026549

Hi All, my thermostat housing is leaking like a siv, and im sick of the plastic ones breaking, where can i source the alloy ones locally? Its for my bmw 520i with a e36 325i m50b25 engine...

Fixed it! I when going to replace the intake manifold gaskets i found that.. A the new ones fitted perfectly around the ports on the head, and B, the intake gaskets where too big for the old manifold, so... For ANYONES referance in future, the m50b25 will replace the m50b20 100% working properly IF, you use a m50b25 intake manifold, if you use the old, it will leak like MAAAAD, so does anyone wunna buy a m50b20 intake manifold??

I can only hope so, I havnt been driving it so that I dont cause problems with valves burning and such, its getting annoying borrowing cars and using my motor cycle to get to work, as I work night shift and its still cold :-(

Got it back with the m50b25 engine installed, It runs and drives well( loads quicker than i expected ), except because the Siemens ecu doesnt like the differant bore and stroke it wont idle well( waaay advanced timing ), misses and backfires through the intake, So im waiting on Gavin at Hi-Velocity to remap it when he is ready, would be much easier to go manual and convert to bosch but.. I want to keep it auto

I Supposedly get the car back tomorrow.. I am kinda anxious on what it'll actually be like running properly and all :S

Id Do what he says, He knows what he is doing , My Bimmer is being repaired by his team, and im happy so far

yeah, i have around 3k to do a engine replacement, and want it done via mechanic, i dunno how far that will take me tbh, and what sort of options that will limit me to

Yup, Been thinking of putting a 525i engine in, not the m52 though, and why would i need some obd1 parts? the cars a 96 so should be on obd2 ? Iv also had conflicting info that if i get an m50b25 engine i can drop that in with out changing the ecu, then others have said i cannot? It would make sense that the b20 ecu doesnt support the b25 engine though

Yeah i thought about that, But im not sure that it will remedy a problem this big, it filled cylinder full of water after cranking the engine to spit out the water faster than i could get back from the drivers seat to the engine bay, and i dont want to get caught out if i go on a long drive, but it is still an option if i want to drive it around to work i guess, thats if I can get the cylinder empty long enough to not hydro lock the engine when starting it again haah

Hey guys, thanks for the advise, and no none of it was rude/ Negative, im just exploring my options, at the moment its looking like a pretty good idea just o have the engine just replaced by a BM Mechanic close by, im still looking for a replacement from another e34, iv been enquiring through email and have had some good leads so far

Apparently I can bolt it straight in, only have to be mindfull of the EWS-II or something, apparently i can get a 94 dme and pop that in and cut a single wire and ave the car run fine ?

On tm i can get a complete package for the 2.5 m50b25 engine, will that be a good repower? its from an e36, comes with the ecu, would that one bolt straight in no issues?

So..... IM gutted now, I drove it around earlier and had no problems, desided to go out for a bit jumped in the car, and found the car hydro locked, pulled the plugs, all clean as, only cylinder 1 had traces/droplets of water in it, cylinder 3, flooded beyond beliefe, i flicked it over to spit th water out checked it again to find it just as full as before, so.. defo the head gasket also now sludge under oil cap, and i cant do the head gasket myself anymore as i dont have a vanos lock kit, and dont have the odd sockets for the head bolts and cam shafts, so... Anyone know of any good cheapish mechanic that can do the headgasket for me? and im hoping like hell that the head isnt cracked, but how likley is it, and how much would i normally have to fork out for this sorta job???

Got one for 220 today, only problem is though, it seams as thought the seal for the cap isnt sealing right, its letting me squeeze the hose and you can hear the air come out, just outa interest i doubled the thickness of the seal and now it seals fine, im wandering if this chinese one has the measurements slightly out or something, but yeah, new rad fitted,and she now doesnt over heat, but im s little suspect the pressure int he hoses, and the heater in the car doesnt seam to blow how air :S so i wander if there is an air pocket still

Update: new Rad needed, found next to no water in it, and apon filling it back up and bleeding it i found there to be a leak between the seal of the expansion tank and the core, so Im just replacing it, and i hope thats the end of the over heating dilemma, Iv still got to find the missing/ no power issue though, wiggeling the c191 ( the one i assume is the c191 ) doesnt cause the car to do anything funny, though there could be a resistance there that im not aware of, and i havnt been able to find a test cas/afm to test it out , and euro parts wreckers want new prices for 2nd hand parts.. so ... yeah, may be a while till i figure out whats going on.

i did sit idle for ages before parking the car to do diagnostics, and they did start the car and rev it ( not hard though ) , when i stopped to let it cool, i gave them a ring and asked them if they noticed it dropping water/overheating, when they told me that the boy noticed that it was dropping water from the bottom of the radiator i would have thought they would have warned me prior to me leaving but oh well, so i dont think they broke it, so its likley considental, or a problem just waiting to happen, I will pull the rad and flow test it, if thats fine then ill pull the pump and replace that with the thermostat, and hope for the best.....coz in my experience a cold lower hose and over heating generally means blocked core , cold top hose means bad thermostat..

so i took it to get scanned, No codes, their scanner for some reason couldnt connect, on another note, after the scan ITS NOW OVER HEATING! the low hose is ice cold and the top hose hot as hell, so likley a blocked radiator/ stuck thermostat or water pump is shot?, and at worst.. a blown head gasket?? what was a nice cheap bimmer.. is now turning into a nice expensive one.. Oh no water in oil that i can see yet, and no oil/white stuff on oil cap either.

A mod should go through this and fix the links.. alot of them a 404 DEAD

Hi guys, thanks for the info, yeah i booked my car in for a scan, I had cleaned the seimens AFM and made a very small improvement, though the c191 plug.. where is it? or.. rather what type of plug is it?, and ill keep you posted otherwise , its a really nice car and id hate to have picked it up for this cheap only to find a major engine problem.. though at the moment it doesnt appear to be one, though while mucking around the car i was a little concerned to find that it looks as though one of the control modules appears to have been tampered with, though opening the one up and looking around it shows that no caps are bloated and no hardware is stuffed, no dry solder and such, so yeah.. maybe its the AFM, but ill wait and see now nvm about the c191, I used the power of google, and ill have a look see tomorrow during a nice day. ( Ie Dont change your mind auckland weather! )

Hi guys so i recently purchased a 520i with really low power below 3krpm, it almost feels like im driving with the hand brake on , knowing the few things i do.. I got rid of the cat converter, and done a general service, including replacing the fuel filter, however its still piss poor at best in the cold when trying to pull away ( iv driven other 520i and this is just reallly bad ), Does anyone know what the resistance values for the Siemens AFM should be? that would be my next stop as iv been told that although the symptoms show like a bad vanos seal ( what ever that means ?? ) its not likley on the this model, Oh, Its a 1996 e34 520i Individual at the moment im not seeing any check engine light, so im not sure if the bulb is even there??? Or does anyone have any other pointers or know where else i should check, Otherwise the car starts quite nicely and cruises fine at 100

Never mind guys I have decided against buying the car, was actually looking to swap for it but he wants the car and money so nooooooo Deaaaaaallll haha

Im looking at buying a running on road project bmw, only really needs a few things tidied up around the edges, the only problem that has me wandering if i should bother to get the car is the fact is has a fault with the car stalling when the car is in drive( being driven on the road or idling in drive ) and you flick the window wipers on, it cant( or shouldnt) be a load issue as it runs fine and doesnt stall in neutral when the wipers are turned on and the all other accessories dont cause it to stall at any other time ( lights radio,power windows ) the only thing that i think may cause it to have this problem is either a bad relay or a bad combo switch?? the ign switch is also worn out though and is inoperable via the ign barrel so has been taken off the back of the barrel to turn the switch over with a screw driver or something, could this be causing the problem?? any advice or input or help would be appreciated , sadly i cannot test the car as i dont have it here at home as i havnt bought it just yet. so may be a bit of a guessing game?

Hey there guys, I have finally decided that as a student, its no longer feesable to keep this car in hopes to do a Engine/gearbox transplant, I love the car, but having a second car thats only used everynow and then is not exactly easy on the piocket with Fuel and Insurance! So, i present My BMW in this link, as im selling it Via www.sella.co.nz! Here she is! : http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/cars-vans-...ars/bmw/4kpf07/