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arros

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Everything posted by arros

  1. Hi Ian, If you are still looking for expression of interest, I'd be interested to come an have a look. ...what I should say however is: don't sell ..I bought spark plugs off you ages ago. I had a 540 then. I think you had just bought the car
  2. arros

    e28 535 Motorsport

    Making a link with another post- Is the guy with the red one 'Brendan'- had the E34 touring just sold- you post his cell #. Should I contact him directly re : "but i do have a mate with one that he might sell 86 m535i red dog leg close ratio box cloth recaro's , 16" bbs etc etc maybe about $6-7k???" Ta
  3. arros

    e28 535 Motorsport

    Cheers Greg. I'm real sad as I don't travel. Tauranga's to far..sad eh (JAFA who don't go far)
  4. arros

    e28 535 Motorsport

    You mad... all that work and you'd sell. Well ok yes 'at the right price' "with the brand new modified m5 engine or std 535i engine"- You take out the M88 and put back the old?? Well I'd prob do the same n keep the engine, why not. Not exactly easy to come by You mates one I may be interested- probably few months away though. Got a Subaru Stationwagon to sell first (unless he's interested in trade). I may be back to you for an M engine sometime in the future (half serious- depend on $, maybe part trade on th insitu 3.5 engine) Speaking of your mates: got slightly warmed to your mate's E34 touring manual but kinda gone off E34's (I was going to say PM a price for yours but I know I'm dreaming )
  5. arros

    e28 535 Motorsport

    Want manual, love motorsport, had enough of E34 and 39 and anything later is too mucho $ Brent you don't want to sell- c'mon. Anyways I probably could afford.
  6. or other manual e28... strong preference for 535 Damn- this should be in WTB section. move me admin, or how to delete
  7. For an E28- this will only fit 'easily' into a 525e. Reason? The eta engine was slight longer than others? Mounting location/flywheel position? Chr
  8. Thanks Brent. I'd look closer at the 3.5 = turbo setup in an E24 rather an 4.0/4.4 if it's an easier convert. Looking at another option: same as you- the E28. Had one before (auto) and do like the model. Would be interested in sourcing a manual E28 and looking at what engine I could put into it (perhaps a turbo on the 3.5). Turbo parts wouldn't come up very often... What sort of options for less than $10K me wonders
  9. What's the story with the car- crashed, recent import?
  10. Any personal experience of the E24 as a transplant recipent. A manual 628 E24 at a reasonable price as a possible candidate looks like a nice cruiser. Would need brake and suspension modification too I guess? An E34 3.5l one may get away without certification if done properly- testing stations v unlikely to know but v8 engine would be way more obvious What's my objective? Something that looks nice- bit different (in eye of beholder granted) with a bit of gas when right foot wants down
  11. arros

    1996 540i

    Cool. Yes I'd say I do need to be flexible on price. Pricing a car is toss up between pricing it 'higher' so there is decent room for negotiation versus pricing is at the price you want and being offered significantly less. Then there is always a $1 reserve you one want's to sell quick. As an aside: what works better- fixed price offer, add 'ono' and clearly state your willingness to negotiate or an online auction which tends to generate more interest due to the obvious finality but less time for people to view car.
  12. arros

    1996 540i

    E39 540 4.4 v8 143, 000km Good overall condition Well looked after Price $7950 ono Hopefully people see this as a fair price...? Would do a deal on a good lowish k's 4WD (not SUV) Shameful repetition of trademe ad below: Remote windows/sunroof with key operation 3x driver position memory-seats/mirror 2 way 1 touch sun roof One touch power windows (obstruction controlled) Rain sensing wipers Steerng wheel control stereo/cruise cont Electric rear blind Heated front seats Engine and transmission in very good nic. TV works fine Tranmission is v smooth and has obviously been treated well. Sport and Tiptronic manual mode give the car some real get-up-n-go New WOF (AA testing station with no issues found) Always taken car to testing stations Always run on 96 Octane in the 1 1/2 years I have owned it. Previous guy told me he did too Imported in NZ in 2002 so has had over half it's life in NZ Tyres are very good-80-90% tread. Alloys I had resprayed couple of wheels have minor curbing- nothing significant (generally in nice condition) Body is in nice condition. Couple of minor dings (not very noticable). Had the car professionally polished over a year ago plus has a Dura seal paint protection on it (still has year warrantly from memory). Interior leather is pretty good- no rips/tears. Condition while not excellent is in keeping with age. Drivers seat bolster shows wear (but that is fairly common) All electric seat controls work as does passenger side reversing mirror Everything works. Only minor faults: outside temperature sensor faulty, rear passanger bottle holder broken and couple of tears on rear internal door lining. Front cup holders fixed. Service records are reasonably good while not complete. BMWorkshop (mostly) and Bellars have service records if you want to enquire about the car. Inspections are no problem. Serviced about 2 months ago. New spark plugs about a year ago. Comes with 2 keys- one master that works central locking remotely the other a standard key. Also have the owner handbook Reason for selling. Have 2 kids and am looking at a 4WD Trademe link edit: price dropped
  13. Many threads on BS about headlight bulbs. Narva Plus 50 give noticeably more light. Philips Vision Plus is good too. These will give more light than standard. I found white light products like "Ice Blue", "Arctic White" give the appearance of a whiter light (filtering by way of a blue coating on the glass) but don't produce more light over stock.
  14. When I use the VIN decoder http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi it just says automatic. I guess a BMW dealer could tell me from the VIN (?) Can I tell if car has the ZF transmission Link to car
  15. Have been getting a little warmed up about getting an A6 4.2 V8. Never had an audi before. The more I think about it plus reading this thread the more I think I'll pass. Probably look at another BMW or an Alfa (for a while). At least I know beamers, know where to get parts, don't know audi, don't know where to get parts. My impression is that there are rather more good 2nd hand BMW parts guys out there than there are for audi's. Can't even get the case right on the word (audi)
  16. Same seller as 'Thoughts on this' threadBoth car and supercharger been on trademe for while (not surprisingly as discussed)
  17. Not really the best thing to buy second hand... ...so in case someone has got some NEW lying around. Perhaps bought but did not end up using
  18. In doing a search on BS re braided brake hoses, most comments are that braded brake hoses offer negligable difference over rubber (ie you can hardly feel it). More for looks (even though you can't actually see it) and feel good - "I've got braded brake hoses" factor. But if your doing all that work.. why not eh
  19. Crashed my bumper in a low speed driveway inpact. Got it fixed through insurance. Bumper was replaced rather than repaired (most often the case I guess). I asked BMWorkshop and they recommend (for all their repair work) Nicholson Panelbeaters Ltd in Newton (Auckland). Nicholson Panelbeaters did a good job, painted it nicely and put it back together well. They cleaned the car inside and out (including wheels ) which is often not the case- I hate your car being returned dusty from the crap of surrounding cars being fixed. It was a replacement part rather than repair job but if their repair work as good which I'm sure it is, I'd recommend them for panelbeating work. Owner Greg has been in the trade a long time and has known Guido from BMWorkshop for around 30 years so he must be doing something right
  20. Auckland area Cheers
  21. Speaking about out sourcing.... something I didn't think of: claim it through insurance!!- get someone else to do it, don't know why I did't think of it- My excess is $250... more that cost of 'trying' to repair myself but at least job will be done properly. I was thinking of plastic adhesives (Gorilla Glue or Bondo repair kit) and strengthening and sanding and painting and blah blah Getting the pros to do it= better finish + less hastle BMWorkshop recommend (for all their repair work) Nicholas Panelbeaters in Newton (Auckland) so I'll see how it it goes, few scratches on the other side to damaged area so will see if they can respray whole bumper to clean it up nice Then service car.. then sell (not so sure now- especially if front is gonna look better post the crunch) Looking for manual. E46/E39 are too rare- looking at trying an Alfa Romeo 156
  22. Cheers. I will probably need to the the the same: weld n respray
  23. Neither Ray or Brent have one- thanks for the response BTW May have to investigate plastic repair... I think it's the respray that would cost the most by far Any experience with plastic welding repair places in Auckland?- I only know of Bumper Replacement Ltd in Penrose and they are only open weekdays
  24. Had just this issue myself: E39 I got a new seat from Ray (HellBm- forum sponsor) in Silverdale Auckland for a good price. Apparently often caused by people (children mostly) kneeling or standing on the seat.
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