rds

Personally I think stroking is poo, unless you want it as a tow car M20B25 - 170 kW (120 kW) @ 5800, 215 N·m (158 ft·lbf) @ 4000 M20B27 - 127 hp (91 kW) at 4250, 240 N·m (177 ft·lbf) @ 3250

Check your oil, if its milky your head gasket is gone. if not: Replace your thermostat and waterpump. Also make sure you do not have any leaks in the cooling system. Even a tiny leak can effect the pressure of the cooling system, this stops the water to flowing around properly.

Best bed time story EVER!!

Yea Barf and I have a M50B25 running with a MS at the moment. Complete new loom etc. Wideband sensor in the tailpipe, it goes mint. Without 1 minute of "professional help" Personally I think the system itself is awrsme, as long as your willing to learn a thing or 20

Yea true true, initally i thought the bimmersporters would be interested!! I was also hoping for a spark map for a M50 that I could steal the gradients off. I didnt think bimmersport was going to be the tuning gospel ;D

Telling me not to ask questions about performance tuning in the Performace tuning forum.....

awrsme posts barf thanks!

Wheres your sense of adventure, my M50 has done 1000kms in current form with no problems thus far. I posted in the hope that I could eek abit more out of it

Goodshit Cam, someone else who is willing to give it ago. Idle is the first barrier! gl

I understand its not super simple, thats why I want to do it. Yea i run a rotax. Shifter classes down here are very small, not really worth the effort if there is no competition. Im guessing you run in Open, whats your thoughts on the KZ2 vs the 250? Good points about the "rate of gain", I can see why a dyno is handy when tuning a spark map. Ok so your point about adding more fuel, this is to slow the flame front down so det doesnt occur? If your wideband o2 is reading stoich or 14.7 then surely the burn is clean and your fuel is correct. Unless under high load when it is benefical to "richn" up the mixture. Also is your peak HP normally close to where det occurs? Or can it vary engine to engine? Tell people the information its their choice what they do with it!! Its not your bad if there sh*t blows up at least you told them good information. Im no idiot and i know the risks.

I dont think hes saying its over your head man. Its the people chiming in with the pointless posts But could you please let me know how you do it?

OK cool, what model knock monitor do you use? Does this hook up to a OEM sensor or does it come with one? I currently do have a wideband o2 in my tailpipe, and the ECU is tuning to a AFR table. Sweet you've been doing it for 22 years!! please give me some advice on how to best tune an engine thats what im after. Please dont tell me to go spend money, because I want to learn and the best way to do this is to go balls deep. If it blows up...its only $800. Do you listen to the engine with your sethiscope in real-time or do you put it out to a graph so you can make changes after the run? Also since im tuning to an AFR table I should be pretty safe with my fuel surely. I know for a fact im not leaning it out massivly and going to make it go boom. If i was getting heaps of preignition, would I feel it in the accel pedal? does pre-ignition screw/change the wideband readout?? Thanks, Rhys

What does this even mean?

For those interested this might be worth a read http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_0348/article.html

http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/tanks....ube%20and%20Fin? Check that out has alot of good info

I understand it doesn't matter what gear your in, its all about load but that wasn't what I was asking Ill reword my question, what piece of kit do you use to check for det or pre-ignition? a kocksensor? What would happen in your shop? Other then a dyno what are the "right tools"? Are we talking about an electronic stethoscope like one of these http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?t...re=snapon-store if so do i need the $1000 one? Cheers, Rhys

Whats the gear you use for checking det? A knocksensor? I was keen to have a look at someones spark map to know if im in the ballpark, not necessarily copy bin to bin. but thanks for the heads up

Welcome mate, that sounds like a beast!! Resize your pics and put them back up, I wanna see!

I think viscous LSD's respond better to wear then clutch type as there is less friction within the diff but they loose out in efficiency because it relies on fluid to transfer power. So viscous gives you less power to the wheels..so they are sh*t. A GTS-T lsd in an e30 is not an upgrade

For anyone wondering wtf RON is = Research Octane Number in this case 95 I was kinda hoping Junky was going to post his map And yes if anyone has a dyno just lying around unused, I would be keen for a spin.

Current Map

Morn, My car is running well with the LC-1 o2 all hooked in and tuning to AFR table. The car runs well currently it has got good pickup reponse etc.. but I was hoping to get the most out of the engine. Currently im running a spark map that I created from a calculator that I found on the internet, the calc is based on basic engine charactistics. I was wondering if anyone has a really good spark map (or stock map) that has been tested with the M50B25. Cheers!!! Ill post up my current one tonight

e30's do have a bit of a reputation for there lack of braking but those pedal boxes look mean as hell, What kind of money are you looking at for a wilwood pedal box? and What other modifications are required other then removing the stock unit?

Dashes are fiddly things, heaps little bits and pieces. Just try to keep organized and you will be fine. Try to keep the nuts and bolts either label'd if your OCD or in 1 place. Don't spread your sh*t everywhere, you'll never remember where it is when you need it. Don't get to worried if you have a few screws left over, as long as everything is solid.

Haha, thats the way! works a charm