Richard7666

After part 12147518628 which according to realOEM was basically used in everything from 98 to 06. Got a quote from partsword.co.nz and their price was more than a brand new Meyle one from MillAnd!! ($93) (I don't want to spend a lot of money on this as we are not 100% sure it is the issue, hence after a secondhand)

^yep, that is the part i was concerned about that they told me it *wasnt*. I took it in again about 3 weeks ago,they had another look, had a drive, told me it was fine. ...the steering wheel play is still sh*t IMO, and replacing the rack has made no difference. I am gonna book in for an alignment at a different place, as that needs done anyway, and get 2nd place to give me an opinion on the steering. If it turns out to be those steering joints, I will go back to the outfit who insisted it was my steering rack and will see what they have to say.

Only spoke on phone, will be taking it in on Thursday. But basically, they reckon the pinion inside my rack was stuffed, and it's possible that the replacement rack (second hand) was also faulty, although they had checked it. They asked "what exactly was the problem". Perhaps they thought there was general play when the wheel was turned more extremely, (may have been a bit of play but I'd never noticed) and that appears to be what the new rack has "fixed" as it does feel slightly firmer when turning. But that wasn't a problem I knew I had. I had originally made it pretty clear the issue I wanted remedied was free play either side of centre, even showed the guy. I will keep thread updated

Sorry have changed location to be more accurate, Invercargill. Not sure re hoist, I didn't actually see them do it

Well apparently they had it on the lift and one turned wheel while the other looked, and determined everything was fine going into and out of the rack Unless the guy in the car was just turning the steeringwheel too far (thus engaging everything properly), as the problem is only between about 11 and 1 either side of centre

So my e46 has steering wheel play between about 11 and 1 o'clock when centred, the garage reckoned it's my steering rack and replaced with a second hand one ($600 all up) In most cases, from my googling, the culprit has typically been the steering coupler http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_0942 (part 4, "swivel joint with universal joint", in BMW language I believe?) I brought this up but they were adament it was the rack and that the u-joint/coupler was fine. Got car back, took for drive, only thing that's different is steering feels tighter when turning, but that wasn't the problem. The play in the wheel is still there either side of centre, and not improved at all. I can happily wiggle it either way 20 degrees like it's just hanging there with only a bit of friction. Is there anything else that would likely cause this sort of play? Ball joints, bottom arms are replaced already (helped with my tramlining a while ago), tie rods are also apparently okay... Suffice to say they will be getting a call from me tomorrow : /

Well, it seems to hold a line fairly well (moreso after ball joints, bottom arms, tires, alignment) though does deviate when it hits a bump. If the steering wheel in my hands has a few cm of play before I 'feel' the wheels turn (feels like something is being engaged), would this point to the coupling? On the other hand the ride is pretty bumpy, and in fact I could feel/hear what I assume was the rear suspension "bottoming out" (not sure correct term) over bumpy road at 100kmph after I picked up back seat passengers.

Where on earth do you live to have had 4 cars stolen??

So worn shocks can cause steering wheel jerk? Makes sense. The ride is fairly bumpy too

Are the above all names for the same thing? What BMW apparently call a "swivel joint with universal joint" www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AZ72&mospid=47632&btnr=32_0942&hg=32&fg=30 I see a lot of threads describing my issue at high speeds: bumps cause steering wheel to jerk, unresponsive steering wheel 'dead spot' when centered (ie lots of play either side of centre), despite having control arms + ball joints replaced, tires replaced, two wheel alignments later.. Just wondering if this part (assuming it's the same thing, though looks like it is in fact sold as a set of two couplings?) is likely my next culprit before tie rods or something

The e90 320 is basically the evolution of the e46 318 (n43 and n42 motors respectively) is that correct? ie they share the same leaky pedigree?

Called Repco and Supercheap, both around $220-240 for a DIN53 or 55. Southland Batteries were also in that price range. Then called a place down here called AJ Auto Electrical... Hella DIN55, $166. So very happy with that result! Recommend them to anyone in Southland.

Thanks. I called a place for a quote and the guy looked up what I believe to be the same system used on a lot of the websites (choose make, model, year) which only lists the diesel e46, or the 318 prior yo 1994! So suffice to say this didn't inspire much trust.

Hmm that's good to know. The 320 seems to be the most common e90 in NZ...so even one with say 60k on the clock would be best avoided?

At what milage do things start to play up with an e90? This one www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-833726982.htm has been on trademe for 6 months now and hasn't sold. It has twice the k's of a lot of other 2006 e90s however

Wondering if there's much variation in price between different brands? I confess to knowing bugger all about batteries Currently the car has a DIN53ZL, this is basically all it will take, correct? Cheers

So my cousin replaced oil separator (after fiddling for 2 hours to get the intake manifold out, two very awkward to get to bolts!) and it was full of crap, completely blocked. It looked like it was full of baby poo! So hopefully that fixes the constant leaks! Wish we'd taken a photo.

I've had quite a few oil leaks (sump gasket, oil level sensor, and now oil being forced out filler cap) in the 18 months I've owned my e46 with n42 engine. My cousin has suggested it may be a pressure issue forcing oil out, perhaps stemming from the ccv ('oil separator' in BMWs part parlance I believe?) Would this be a likely culprit? Presently a rather large amount of oil is getting forced out the filler cap! (I've checked it's on correctly)

Need a new oil level sensor, entered my car's serial into RealOEM which gave me the exact car (pretty nifty). However, the oil sensor part no. 12617501786 I can't seem to find in many places online except for twice the price of Hella's ones, who I believe make the OEM ones anyway? Wondering if the oil sensor is the same across all e46s? Mine's a 2002 318 with n42 engine. Cheers

It's 5w/40, BMWLL01 rated, fully synthetic. Same as I've always used

Two days ago my e46 (n42 engine) developed a loud ticking sound: - It only occurs at idle, or when the car is 'coasting' at low speed after I remove my foot from the accelerator (eg right before coming to a stop) - never occurs under acceleration - mainly occurs while idling in Drive/reverse, though yesterday it was cold and noticed it sporadically while I was idling in park. Very audible in the cabin, unfortunately hard to pin down with bonnet open as the rest of the engine drowns it out. Anyone have ideas?

So I have a sagging headlining. Got my cousin to try DIYing it with glue but it is coming away again; apparently the foam underneath the fabric is buggered. So am looking to buy a whole new (secondhand) headlining with NO sunroof. Cheers

My cousin is going to replace my sump gasket which is leaking, just wondering where's a good place (online?) to buy a (decent) gasket kit? I imagine it comes in a big box so buying from overseas might cost a lot in shipping? It's for a 2002 e46 with 2L n42 engine. Cheers!

Eh? Obviously I now know it does have something wrong with it, (presumably the diff, as has been said). Will take it to one of the BMW specialists mentioned in the thread. Just didn't wanna waste time ringing places and taking it all over the show if it *was* actually normal.

Okay had a look, it idles at about 900, maybe 950rpm...is that a bit high?