Olaf

Holy thread resuscitation batman. Nathan, I think I can do this. I have a cunning plan. And 3D scanning software on my phone, and a 3D printer generously given to me by a friend with a proliferation of them. I'm going to learn. First step, getting a scan of each side while I quickly replace first factory 2-ways with some free Alpines that came in a parts car. Then second stage, knock up something like those, based on cutting out the doors, using pre-printed parts - less downtime for the car as still no garage. I'm getting ahead of myself. Time to update the objectives, and my current solution. 1. Audio. As before, I listen to music. I used to be an audiophile. I'm more a 'flat earther' - the whole Linn/Naim thing from the 70's/80's that focuses on PRaT (Pace, Rythmn, and Timing). Conclusion? The car still remains a sh*t place to listen to music in. I want a better experience than 20+ year old factory. I want handsfree calling, playing 44.16 WAV files from USB, sometimes Spotify from my phone. Don't give me typical Japanese Audio with cut-glass highs and slow plodding over-blown one-note bass. I want TIMING, TIMING, TIMING, I want fast, tuneful bass, I wasnt it musical, baby. I am not looking for a disco in my car! 2. The car. The factory head unit stays. Kenwood Mechless Head Unit. This is a compromise. They look good, sound pretty good, have three sets of RCA output and some equalisation options that are 'enough' for me. I want integration with multi-Function Steering Wheel (which will be added soon). I listen to WAV files, FM, and Bluetooth sometimes. The Kenwood option works beautifully with an iPhone once paired, and is seamless for my wife using the car with her iPhone too. I can't be arsed with a double-DIN android unit or cabling a camera, useful as it may be. And the Kenwood is CHEAP. My car lives on the street - it must be stealth. I will not sacrifice trunk space and utility for a sub box. Any sub must be small, tight, tuneful - either mounted in the side panel, or abover the space saver spare in the trunk floor. I realise with a small box it probably constrains me to a small driver; this is a compromise I can live with. My sub must not be lagging behind the music; it's about sound reinforcement, not SPL sound-offs. It must be removable/reversible. it'll be a one-way job. Though the amp may stay with me. Who knows. 3. The work: I'm past massive fabrication work. I don't mind the idea of building a custom-fit sub box, but speaker pods and all that malarky, no thanks. I'm impressed by what others do, I'm sticking to 'simple'. Some dynamat in key places to quiet things down/stiffen things up: yes, by all means! 4. What am I thinking? Some free used 2-way component speakers in the front, an amp, and a maybe a sub, and a new HU. I read this from Audio-file In Car, UK and thought "I know the Audio File from my time in UK, they did Naim and real british HiFi... this is probably a good approach to music in the car" (as opposed to screechy in-car entertainment)... So as a base kit list (doesn't seem cheap - can I do similar and still avoid awful screechy out of time ICE for less money: Front door speakers: Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways. copyright Crutchfield. Having no skills with 3D printing, will not be a barrier to success. I now have scanning app on my phone, a 3D printer, and guidance from an expert. I figure I'll install the Alpines into stock position with simple adaptor rings (I found a decent file on the thingiverse), dope the door panels with Dynamat or similar. While I'm in there, I'll scan the area so that I can suss out a model of those door pods and then build some out of scrap, install later. Ultimately I'm more likely to replace the Alpines with better speakers of same size in future. Rear speakers: I guess I'll replace them with some co-axial Focal or MB Quart or similar. Mostly because they'll be f#%ked after 22 years. As it's such as hassle to get in there in the touring I'd prefer to do it just the once! Still not sure if they're 6x9 standard, or 6.5". Amplifier: The parts car netted an Alpine MRP-F250 (needs bench test), and some Alpine Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways in the front that'll suffice for a start. Alpine MRP-F250 as found in my parts car (photo credit - John Begley). "Free parts" fit my current budget. I'll get 8ga (or 6ga) to a 3-way distro block behind the back seat, feed the alpine from it, and provides for another amp or two in future. I am assuming Class D efficiency in future so unlikely I'll need anything beefier. I'll run three stereo RCA interconnects from HU to amp position, one long enough to snake around to left side storage bin in case that's needed. I'll be sourcing parts from Aliexpress to keep budget low. I will be sure to find full copper cable with silicone jacket, rather than tinned aluminium etc. I think it's an okay compromise, I'm looking for "better" and "good enough" without going nuts on cables etc. - Head Unit: I'm going to replace the HU with a Kenwood KMM-BT408, as soon as I have the multi-function wheel in and functioning. It's the more up-to-date version of what I have in Grey Thunder. It'll sacrifice that beautiful design for some practicality - I play WAV files from USB stick and (rarely) bluetooth audio from iPhone; my Wife will most likely play Spotify from her iPhone; we both use radio. The phone integration will be great for hands-free calling. We simply run nav via Waze or Google for navigation, with our phones on a mag cradle in one of the vents - no need for a double-din unit, added cost and complexity - though the rear camera wouldve been good. You can't have it all. - Other: Multi-function Wheel integration unit. I know nothing about these. - Other: what if I want to amp-up the rear load area speakers later - if I went active in front with the first amp? Questions: 1. Front Speakers Cabling: So do I run the front pair active off of the Alpine Amp, and power the rear speakers from the HU? Or keep it simple and wire in the Alpines with their crossover, and keep the install pretty vanilla with each amp channel running one corner? I guess I'll be running speaker cables whatever I do. I'll need to check, I think with the base audio in my Japanese market touring I don't have looms to cut into at the back. 2. HU Integration: which is the best looking/fitting e46 dash trim unit? 3. HU/Multi-function integration unit: Whose is best value for money to get Kenwood HU talking to BMW volume, call answer etc? 4. Cabling: I figure I'll go Aliexpress. Three pairs of interconnects, install em once. Speaker Cabling? Am assuming I don't need to go crazy, though for simplicity may need to run my own - I don't think the Japanese market Touring had boot mounted amps unless with HK system, so am not expecting to find factory connectors to marry into. That's it folks. Shouldn't tie me in knots.

@Cammsport did you find one yet?

Yes, oil analysis will tell you much about the state of the bearings. But hey you're committed, you've bought the parts. My knowlege of these engines - all the BMW M engines - is that whatever oil you run, it needs to have the right 'stuff' in it, not just be the right grade. Eg - you may find subtle yet important differences between retail Edge 10W60 and what BMW spec. Some people say this sh*t is irrelevant... Your mileage may vary. One supposes you've done a bottom end refresh on other vehicles, previously?

Going to update the audio thread here

the MOST disturbing aspect of that article is it did not describe the offender as a "former employee of NZTA". For such such serious misconduct she should have been sacked. Immediately. Why was the Privacy Commissioner not asked for comment in the story - lazy pisstake journalists. The employee can never be trusted again to access such information again. A massive breach of trust for the pubic in a government organisation, NZTA again a bloody failure. Jesus, it's PII - Personally Identifiable Information - which usually classifies as at least CONFIDENTIAL. For access to data of this classification, there's usually risk assessment carried out (Privacy Impact Assessment) on the data and and Security Risk Assessment of systems used to store it; and of the people who have access to the data - a security clearance, which is updated periodically. It is up to the holder to report any change in circumstances to their privacy and security officer, such as "I'm now dating a Gang Member" or "I engage in dogging" or "I like to make a quick buck by selling data". /rant For those interested, plenty to learn on the subject here: https://www.protectivesecurity.govt.nz/classification

Looks like good buying, well done. I agree with above, oil analysis. Seller statement all Castrol Edge 10W60 incorrect, Werkstadt segments have indicated Fuchs F1 used on at least one, FWIW. Careful maintenance should see fun running. LCI updated rod bearing specs IIRC? A steal overall. You've bought at a price that covers plenty of remedial maintenance to bring it up to brilliant and a great driver.

I think anyone buying an 8er expecting them to rise significantly in value is an optimist. They're unquestionably a cool car, though complexity is high/niche and popularity is a short side on that triangle. If I had a garage space and some idle money, I'd keep the space empty and invest in the NASDAQ.

More electrical faults caused by those nasty connectors than twisted wires! I appreciate it's fairly straightforward, unfortunately I don't have a large array of connector pins at my disposal or a decent space to work in. I should get my sh*t sorted, get some pins and a new crimper. Wow, that's a very generous offer, thanks. I guess we have a whole parts car I could do the same with (albeit a couple of hours north of me); I won't ask others to do what I wouldn't do myself 🤔. Time's tight so I'll pay for the kit. I do remember them being USD21 - had it on my parts list for ages. Thanks I'll take a look. also time to get a new crimper kit and some of those heat shrink solder jointy things. I'm a former Telecommunications tech, anything less than an excellent connection is a fault waiting to happen!

I've found 61120016012 on FCP at a very reasonable USD43, part number matches for everything I've found on 'retrofit multi-function steering wheel BMW e46'. I also found the attached PDF - though the part numbers referred to in the instructions don't mention 61120016012. Unable to find 61120016012 on a parts search in RealOEM? EDIT: This is a very succinct retrofit video: steeringwheel.pdf

https://barrysgarage.co.nz/product/autoglym-hi-tech-wheel-brush/

welcome Paul! There's now a Northland chapter of the BMW Car Club NZ, based in Whangarei... plenty of local camerarderie too!

The e60 is particularly battery sensitive. Bad battery - all sorts of errors, as there's a sh*t-ton of sensors, and (if I recall correctly) about 13 modules in the car? You'll also want to check if the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) update has been completed on your e60. It's a recall in other countries, not in NZ though! Mega important - battery registration must be completed on installation of a new battery. Includes capacity, date etc and tells the ECU to reset its parameters and charge for a new battery instead of an aging one. I put in a Koba AGM and had very good experience, in my old e60 545i. Hope that helps. Oh, and get the biggest capacity (there's a large-size (taller) DIN88L in the preference to DIN88 (or whatever the and most cold cranking amps you can). Anyone that spouts 'that's the price of driving a BMW' while holding out their hand for your money is best avoided - what a f#&kknuckle. Welcome, BTW!

Get an Auto Glym wheel brush, and Auto Glym Clean Wheels, and you'll be sorted. The brush makes cleaning difficult rims a breeze, it's the best I've used. @Autoglym is the bloke to talk to.

Hi Folks I need a 24mm front antirollbar for my e46, it's P/N 31351094542 usually found on motorsport models. In very good to excellent condition, not pitted/rusty where the bushes sit. I'm in Wellington. Happy to pay freight too.

Perhaps I can make a contribution on the audio front to our collective knowledge on Touring audio - at least if I can be arsed doing it myself! I did initially think of the double-din android units like you and @adro have done, though can't be arsed on the extra cost of the unit and running in a Camera (as useful as that would be). I'd rather spend the extra on Konis 😊