MoJoJoe

you've got the 328i, right? you've got EWS. Google it

ah, yes i know of that, so fues 7 controls that ring around the ignition and I need it for the car to start? could that had been messing with my alarm systems?

will put it back on tomorrow. most of my fueses were 32v strangely. shouldn't they be normal 12v ones?

Hi Neal, thanks for trying to help. its connected to a RED (constant) I also had a professional do the second alarm for me, I got a multimeter and did the alarm install on this first time around myself, also did it on a few other cars. have all the wires figured.

I have a diamond shaped key with a little yellow light(torch) on it, the car does not have a factory alarm, the alarm I have right now is a mongoose, the alarm module can remember things so even if you disconnect the battery it doesn't matter and keys dont need to be reprogramed, no cmos style batteries inside when I opened the unit.

So I was reading and there Fuse 7 is labled "Infrared" ( burglar alarm) ?? I wonder what it does because I have it disconnected. (Central locking is working as the fuse for that or windows rolling seems to be 43). think its some kind of security related feature? that works in conjunction with the other features? i was reading and found this "RF receiver is in the rear view mirror, and it downconverts the 433MHz to lower frequency data for the ZKE" so could this be somehow interfearing with my alarm/ i will leave it like this overnight and then see tomorrow if the problem goes away and if it does I will reconnect the fuse and try again, could had just been bad batteries or a hood pin switch which I unplugged as well.

i also put new batteries in my alarm remote and reprogrammed them, has been working nice the whole day now hopefully this sorts my problem, so far so good, if it works fine tomorrow then its good as gold.

lovely car, mint interior, I would had taken it but short of funds. should sell pretty fast. all the best

up.

sorry to hear about your loss, my one looks a lot like yours apart from the colour, so makes me even more worried. I just had an alarm installed on mine and its a bit malfunctioning, did yours have one? where was it parked? in a lone place? could be the guys were targetting you for some time, these thiefs often run a syndicate look out for good cars then follow them around and get an idea of the moment of the owner/car and strike based on a time where they know you would be on x place away from your car for y ammount of time.

whos your insurer? was it hassle free to claim insurence from them? i am looking to insure mine.

all the best

My car(1995 328i) has an Strange Alarm Issue, I think it may be something pretty common so please give me your inputs.

Previous owner had the alarm cut off, never told me why but from the wiring I could tell it must have been an after market unit, so I installed an alarm myself and had everything working and it would work fine for a few hrs but then the thing would not disarm. Had a professional install another alarm for me and its now doing the same thing. it will arm and disarm fine but if left for a few hrs the signal from the remote gets weaker and overnight it just wont disarm. unless I trigger the alarm off and reprogram the keys.

My Battery is new and fine, and I have fixed the bad wires in the trunk harness that breaks. something is telling me there is something thats happening in the car when left for sleep mode or some previous alarm RF frequency in the rear view mirror or something that makes the communication between the alarm and the fob very hard and then makes it forget.

Is this a common issue I think it maybe an interference or the temperature or something? maybe a capacitor somewhere? can anybody please help?

Sounds good, Thanks.

I think I will probably take the following

2x Custom Plates

2x BMW Plate Frame

I am wondering is this purely a EURO plate thing I mean what if we get the plates without any thing on either side and to look blank like the original normal NZ plates or in older black background version

something like this on the right, I wonder the legality of this on the right. Most cops are looking for the stuff on the left, but the one on the right is something different entirely and may just pass as a custom plate? I don't know if I saw that option in plates.co.nz either.

yep, both great ideas. Subscribing is a good option. this thread only gets action when there is an order of course (well except for now...) so when you get the notification that there has been an update to the thread, come on line and take it from there.

haha

look, if i was selling them for $90 a pair and making a bit of money on the side, id be more than happy to put in the work to make a sale, like any other business person.

but i don't make anything on these. I do it from the kindness of my heart LOL

So if one more or one less buys, I'm really not bothered at all, so long as its close to break even

if there are more than 10 people, then make a little profit which accumulates and pays for the shortfall on orders like the last one which didn't break even.

How many people do you need andy?? 8 more or less? you already got me and the other guy? So whats the verdict on a limited run for bmw m power sticker on the left side instead of the NZ flag? NZ Ferm on right, and BMW m power on left.

I appreciate what you are doing, you know I wouldn't mind paying you $10 ~ $20 on top for your effort.

Andy I see you've become a babysitter. Good pay?

pays better then being an ahole and rubbing it in, you know? they guy is helping out the community and I understand I need them and he shouldn't be bothered but I just asked is hey if he does post here and come and go regularly whats the big deal other then ego to just drop me a txt or a line on a message, not really babby sitting. Just saying because i never use internet forums and stuff like that, but see how the subscribe feature works. I subscribed so hopefully when its near baking point I get a notification and come back.

lol. I'm just saying I dont like screws to bite into plastic, I prefer nuts and bolts, pan head or counter sunk ones would sit flush. never mind, i am beyond your help.

got it thanks, any reason why you aren't using bolts or flat pan head bolts and nuts? they would be better then tapping into plastic?

PS: anybody got a set of plates I could have for temp use? mine have gotten fugly

Nope, one line of the moulded slots lined up perfect. Both frames screwed on with no effort.

The only thing was with the front one, were if you only use the two factory mounting holes in the center the plate will be straight and not hug the curve of the bumper. Thankfully the PO of my car had his old euro plate held on by two screws in the top corners, which the plate frame also has premade slots to use. A couple of screws there as well (4 holding the front frame on in total) and away i went.

show us how you modified it? I kinda know how it feels when the plate doesn't hug the corners, right now I have my plate bent and bolted to hug the corners properly, all covered with a euro plate frame

The boat doesn't wait a whole month before you recheck this thread. I do not hold people up for those that can't decide if they want any.

No idea when the next one is yet.

Will decide when i have enough interest etc.

Ya I know but I kinda hoped you'd just sent me a pm and I would had joined in. You knew I alraedy wanted a pair, my cars front plate is screwed from the time whern we towed it back home and the rope snapped and took a lash on it

anyway. okay this time I am in, when you have all the people you want just drop me a message with the bank details and I will make the deposit

How about we do a limited version where we repalce the NZ flag sticker on the left with the BMW M colours stripe?

I wanted the plates

whens the next time?

Thanks Jo, I did just that. Have really taken my time and results were great, flawless.

Finished the manifold and took the car for a drive, the install was really simple once I figured the hoses and stuff out, putting it in the car was the hard part. I took my time and was doing some other work and took me a few days, was hesitant to fire up but then came to life, no vac leaks or anything. I used the m50 manifold kit from m50manifold dot com. (its called the eric kit). the guy himself was very helpful to reply to my questions and emails. its not as flashy as the eurosport kit but its really good and enough for the job.

M3AN's code reader got NO faults after a total 1.5hrs/Around 50Km of twist's and turns, some sprinted driving and some regular just enjoying the scene drove it around mountains, the beach and the city. Overall the m50 on my JATCO auto,is not bad at all, the grunt is there, I guess there is some torque loss between 2.5 - 3.5k but honestly I couldnt tell if there is a torque loss as its almost the same and the car does pulls a LOT harder even under 4K. Alex also said similar things(also JATCO auto). Plan on going to the motor way and trying it out, have some work to do on my wheels anyway so there it is.

I have added the manifold today. but turns out my CCV to VANOS plastic pipe didn't fit properly and also developed a leak, so I repalced it with a PVC pipe I and reused the plastic barbs. it was a very tight fit and added clamps to be sure

After all said and done it feels much better and everything clicked into place, yes I added some engine oil to the o rings before connecting it. So has this been done before? I mean I dont see why it wouldn't work, I think it was plastic due to "looks" mainly? Is it bad I used a PVC heater core pipe instead of the BMW OEM plastic one or am I heading for any issues?

Llooking forward to hear some reassuring opinions

this is the hose I am talking about. (picture off the internet to show the pipe)

finally got the right m50 manifold today, doing it this friday/weekend.

the injector seals looked good so I lubed the old injector seals with some transmission oil if that's okay? keeping the code reader for the last week till I test drive the car and see if there are any code faults. thanks

PS: US Spec M3 cams back at my hand, friend dropped them off. I may also swap out the m3 cams or sell them. depending on what I find on the other forums. and if there is a loss without a tune if I added cams or if the car can be driven to auckland (200 km) with the new cams for a tune.

I think I have one up in the attic. If you really want me to go have a look text me on 021795306 and I will try find it.

done

How durable are the front ones, and how are they attached?

With some muscle and with nuts and bolts. can run the whole thing on normal bumpers too if you dont want to make them as splitters in the M, makes the car more aggressive. They are REAL durable stuff, not like the crap flappy rubber stuff on trademe. This stuff is stronger then your bumper itself, no kidding. thick 1/4" abs plastic that you can scrape away

updates for the front ones I am working on, this is the prototype for the front, you can shape them up anyway you like, really strong abs stuff. who wants to buy some from me or they are going straight on trademe? comes in either 2x 3 foot or 1x 6 foot pieces.

I would be inclined to say yes. Your standard DME's ignition/fuel map is optimized for standard cams NOT M3 ones.

Full disclosure: I work in an office. Apart from flicking through a bentley service manual once or twice I don't know sh*t.

You can muddle around with this thread for another 7 pages and get more baseless opinions like my own or you can put your hand in your wallet and take it to someone who knows what they are talking about. The real experts (the ones who do this for a living) are not going to give up the info you need for free... and why would they?

Thanks, US forums report the car will run, power can be noticed but it will run like crap unless tuned. too bad, the onesthat know here wont do full disclosure to guys like us . so looks like will be installing them myself with a hand from someone and then taking them to gavin for a tune up. unless of course I sell them.

theres your answer MoJoJoe

leave it all stock much more fun

m50 manifold + lsd + us m3 cams + exhaust + headers + tune + jatco (later manual from hellbm) = loads more fun.

Anybody here got a M50 manifold? I need the 2.5L one.

You should really take this to someone who knows what they are doing.

swapping them out is not the hard part, I just need a hand and help with the timing, however I am just curious if I should do it or if an cam upgrade to m3 cams is actually going to make my car run bad (less power) without a tune?

I need the M50 from the M50B25 (2.5L) engine. (the m50 manifold I have here is from a 2.0L engine)

the larger manifold should have a part number ending with 2.5 meaning its from the m50B25.

these swap right in or I have been told, no modifications required, I just want to know do I see any gains or actual loses. I drive a auto. a few people here said if I swap the m3 cams I will probably lose power. I find that a bit puzzling to believe as even without a tune I have heard only good things (good gains) with m3 cams in a m52b28??

So i lose power adding m3 cams(unless I get a tune?)