Rrascal

WTB idle control valve for my '88 E34 M30B30, anybody have one...?

Interested in a complete car? I have a '92 740 I could be persuaded to sell... Needs starter motor, windscreen and radiator to be runner again, and trans slips in third. Straight and tidy inside and out, except saggy hood lining... 18's, two near new GDS3's, plus one warrantable, one stuffed...

Problem reared it's inconvenient head again... Swapped out the relay module with the one out of my E32 M30B30 wreck. Not the same numbers, (except the first four), but provisionally rectified problem... I'll give it a few days, see if it happens again... While I'm here, anyone have a spare idle control valve to suit a 1988 E34 M30...? Or alternatively, advice on how to go about transferring cruise control from my E32...? That would also cure my problem, but is the wiring all there, and what do I have to swap...? I've noted the throttle body and vacuum lines are different, presumably the engine control module and switch gear, anything else...?

Went through fuses under rear seat, replaced several that were the wrong value (and the rear window demister one which was blown) and now the windows/sunroof are working again... Don't know if I've affected anything or it's just decided to function again by itself like it did last time... I already replaced the fusable link some time ago when a whole lot of things all quit at once.

It's done it again now. Sunroof involved too, it's open in the up position. Attempting to raise either of the right hand windows produces a 'click' from the sunroof area, presumably the limit switch. Attempting to close the sunroof produces a click from the drivers door... Passengers side still working fine... Oh for manual windows... Electronics, the way to kill a car that won't wear out...

Strange behaviour from windows... Arrived at a friends place last night with drivers window down. When I attempted to close the window, the REAR right hand window went DOWN...! ...And then neither of them would close. I left it alone until I departed, when both windows were working fine again. This has happened once before but I hadn't realised it at the time, because I had remotely locked the car at home and not paid any attention, but when I returned to the car both right hand windows were down. I suspect this is a sign of incipient failure of something, anyone help me with what it might be...?

Whole Lotta Rosie.

Howl of protest...!

Thank-you...! I was looking for it on the block...

Where do I find the oil pressure switch on an M30 engine..?

Would like a pair of rear quarter interior trim panels, with or without lights. Price please?

I disagree with the 4kph threshold on the grounds that there is no requirement, and hence no chance, that a speedometer is that accurate... Hell, a new set of tyres compared to a worn set could make that much difference...

I know of a 540 6-speed that went for $800 recently... Very rough though and the clown had water-blasted the interior (!!) so it was really only a parts car...

Cheers Jared. The cars I own generally improve in condition, barring accidents... If I was gonna do an engine swap I think I'd be looking for an M70... Although I'd probably be more inclined to fit a turbo to the M30B30. Catching up on a decade or more of poor maintenance has to be the priority first. Hmmm... Speaking of parts cars, must check the diff tag on the E32 M30, think that one is limited slip...

Mate, nothing you wouldn't expect from a 25 year old car that cost 1k... It's just surprises I don't like...

That's a Tui billboard right...?

The E32's

Cooling system needs sorting... Clean out radiator and replace water pump. Replace radius arm bushes. Get the rest of the fluids changed... Remove the cylinder head from the E32 and vacuum test it, resurface it and clean it then swap heads. Might steal the rotors and calipers off the 740... Find some stiffer front springs... Hmmm... Oh yeah, swap out the rusty sunroof... Find some interior rear quarter panels and replace those. Find a better set of bumpers... And maybe a bootlid... Paint it. We'll see, it mostly comes down to money, of which I only periodically have any...

That Triumph felt pretty good... Urethane and Koni's in it, pistons and rods all balanced, and crank etc all balanced too, 3kg off the flywheel, ports and combustion chambers all cleaned up, TR5 cam, overdrive box, was good for an indicated 130mph, (probably more like 120 tho). Surprised a few people with it that's for sure...! They were an inherited sickness, 3 great uncles and my father all owned them at various times... Always wanted to drop an M30 in one, or even better, an M60...

Gotta love anything I can fix for time, not money...!

Cheers Brent, that's it... It's had a dodgy repair done on it in the past. (Some brain function challenged person has tried to solder it...!). I've got a good one in the E32 M30, so just a matter of removing the half pie repair work and putting the good one in. Thank-you!

Cheers guys... It'll get her fixed, slowly... I do actually like it, in spite of it's tatty condition. And as I said above, I've enjoyed two other BMW's. I'm just a wee bit frustrated as it had been running fine for several weeks. For many years I ran MkII Triumphs, 20+ year old BMW's actually seemed like a kind of natural progression from there... Straight 6, rear drive, Macpherson strut/semi-trailing arm suspension, leather and wood... There's been a Series 3 Jaguar XJ6, an Alfa 155 and an Alfa 156 in amongst the beemers, but I've come back...! Thanks for the welcome...

Thanks for your response. Am I correct in assuming that the Check Control Module is the long one in the front power distribution box and the General Module is in the most forward position in the rear power distribution box? I've got an '89 E32 730 here to scavenge from, if they're the same...

I've owned a Selespeed one, the main problem with them is crap diagnosis... Agents just tell you "you need a new robot" which is most often crap. Pumps burn brushes, but you can replace them, (even though you're not supposed to) and the other common failure with them is the pressure accumulator. So don't be frightened by a Selespeed one, they're often a bargain! Download FiatECUScan - Fiat, Alfa, Lancia ECU Reader / Scanner to your laptop, and get the appropriate leads to connect to the car. Worth their weight in uranium... For parts contact Mal at Dino Enterprises, Cambridge. He's the man for Fiat and Alfa spares. My opinion is that the 2 litre is a better balanced car than the V6. The V6 sounds great tho... Although if you can afford a GTA get that! 250hp is not to sneezed at... If you're doing the belt, my advice is to do it all... The balance shaft seals in the 2 litre fail, so look for leaks... The upper front wishbones start to squeak when they're worn and they're an alloy arm, you're supposed to replace the whole wishbone, both sides... They're really fun to drive...!