russellc2

Hi all, Does anyone have a clutch plate lying around for a 5 speed Getrag 220/240/260 that they have replaced with new? I only need the centre section / splines to be in good nick, doesn't matter about the plate material. Cheers, Russell

Now sold!

Bump - Price dropped to $13,000 ono - also new TM link below: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1269323814

Unfortunately the time has come to sell on my track car / hill climb / sealed sprint project. Really not sure on the value so appreciate any feedback, but it owes me a whole lot more than I'm asking (nearly double...) & be great to see it go to a Bimmersport enthusiast looking to build a track car. now sold http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1259060650 Full details and more photos in the TradeMe ad (a long list of bits!) Cheers, Russell

Thanks for the info too Muzz, I'll give that program a try for sure.

ECU and compartment is nice and dry. Still need to check each of the 3 cam sensor wires right back to the ECU plug though. Cheers

Hi, quick update to this ongoing issue. I got INPA working properly on another laptop, still got error 65 and down on midrange power. I'm getting a constant 83.89 reading looking at analogue values for the cam position. It doesn't go up or down when car is running, so it appears to be cam sensor wiring before the plug, or my new cam sensor is no go. Anyone have a good known working spare sensor in Wellington area I could try as a test before buying another new one? Cheers

Hi all, thought I would start a new thread to see if anyone had experienced similar issues... 95 model 328i, M52B28 with new crank and cam sensors as per my previous post. I'm still getting a cam sensor fault through INPA which won't go away with the new camshaft sensor & crank sensor. If I unplug the cam sensor, the car wont start. Plug it back in, clear codes, start car and continue to get error 65 Camshaft Position Sensor. I was told that a faulty MAF can also show as a cam sensor fault, so temporally disconnected the MAF & started the car ok after clearing codes again. Now I just got a MAF fault as well as cam sensor fault. The car is running ok, although if cam sensor is playing up I assume the vanos won't be working so I may be down on power a bit. I was trying to read values when the car was running with INPA (on XP laptop) to confirm I had no vanos activity but inpa keeps erroring when ever I start the car?? I can only read stored values & clear for some reason...

Hi all, looking for more help as I'm still getting a cam sensor fault through INPA which won't go away with the new camshaft sensor & crank sensor. If I unplug the cam sensor, the car wont start. Plug it back in, clear codes, start car and continue to get error 65 Camshaft Position Sensor. I was told that a faulty MAF can also show as a cam sensor fault, so temporally disconnected the MAF & started the car ok after clearing codes again. Now I just got a MAF fault as well as cam sensor fault. The car is running ok, although if cam sensor is playing up I assume the vanos won't be working so I may be down on power a bit. I was trying to read values when the car was running with INPA (on XP laptop) to confirm I had no vanos activity but inpa keeps erroring when ever I start the car?? I can only read stored values & clear for some reason...

new crank sensor installed tonight and it's running well again with no stalling Still got a cam sensor fault before I went for a drive but it feels like everything is working as it should, and great fun with the M50 manifold when it keeps on pulling to nearly 7k! Will check codes again tomorrow but I think my issues are resolved - thanks all

Thanks for the info Mad Max! turns out that's exactly what's happened in my case too. All the insulation on both the cam and crank sensors has gone old and brittle and disappeared on a fair chunk of the wiring! I just hope it's not the same further up the wiring path for each sensor to the DME... Hoping the new crank sensor turns up today. Here's a pic of the wiring

Thanks Brent, got one coming from Milland. Will report back to confirm it resolves the issue

Thanks James, yes confirmed mine is on the front too - don't know why I was looking for a crank sensor on the side of the block in the first place! Do they fail very regularly? Can they be tested fairly easily?

And last question for now, is there 1 or 2 crank sensors on these motors? Looks like 2 wires splitting off from the plug under the manifold. Update: Appears I was looking at wrong connection and the 2 splitting off wires are for knock / ping sensors?

Hi all, Problems with the racecar this time (E36 - 328i 95/96 model) Bit of a long-winded description sorry! Having an intermittent issue where the car cuts out / loses all power an needs to be restarted. Seems to be losing signal to crank position sensor, although the fault codes (read with INPA) don't seem to match this. I have recently fitted a new camshaft sensor as I was getting a constant code for this using INPA. I'm not 100% sure yet this new one is working correctly. Got it from Milland and never had an issue with anything from them before, so I'm thinking it's something else causing the issue. The old camshaft sensor wiring was stuffed at the sensor end. All 3 wires had lost their insulation so were touching each other. Not sure if this was old age and heat that caused this or something else? I'm guessing this short may have damaged the old DME too maybe? So I have also just fitted another re-flashed MS41.0 DME (7K rev limit / tuned for M50 manifold which I have also just fitted / EWS delete + other bits) With new DME / new cam sensor I am still getting this cut out which feels like crank sensor, but I've only seen one code in INPA relating to crank sensor. Cleared that and it's not come back, although I keep getting cam sensor fault every time I start the car without fail... I'm about to order new crank sensor (looks to be 2 of them) but rather than just throwing money at the issue I thought I would ask some guru's on here first as someone may have had the same issue? Also can anyone confirm if cam sensor fault will actually stop the engine on an M52? I know the vanos won't function as the DME can't tell cam timing but when one of the 2 cam sensors died in my e39 540i, the engine still ran ok just down on power & never died. I was going to unplug cam sensor to test this theory too. Cheers, Russell

Cracked it! One step in Glenn's instructions wasn't quite right. His step 2 says wait for 5 seconds, other instructions I found said it needs to be done quickly (key in, onto position 2 / ignition on, then off & remove in under 5 seconds) this did the trick for me. For anyone else with same issue, try this: 1. Get in and close all doors 2. Turn the ignition on &off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds 3. First key -hold down button #2 (unlock -on the bottom left with the key blade pointing up) while striking button #1 (lock -~he BMW logo) three times. Release button #2. This should be confirmed by door lock operation. 4. If you have more than 1 key then you need to repeat for the other keys within 30 seconds of first or they will be rendered inactive. 5. After last key then cycle the ignition on/off to finalise the process (it is not necessary to start the engine).

ok the plot thickens.. Re-tested the IR functions on both lock and unlock using the front (not rear facing) camera on my iPhone 6 as well as a known working remote in my house and they are all functioning fine So it looks like the IR sender is not at fault. Ran through the steps provided by Glenn in the post you sent through about 4 or 5 times and still no joy. I get the red LED on key flashing whether I hit the round lock button 3 or 4 times (tried both methods) but it still doesn't activate the central door locking. I've double checked fuse 53 in the boot is still fine too... I found another article that mentions doing something in DIS around the radio / IR functions but I wasn't sure which menu that was under so gave up!

Hi Dean, thanks for the info - I didn't realise newer cameras (I used an iPhone 6) filtered IR... I had an auto locksmith try re-syncing with the car, I've got a copy of the exact process he used. I have changed the 2x CR2016 since then (did the battery swap in under 30 sec's after reading about what you mentioned) but haven't had any luck with a re-sync since then. I'll give it another whirl tonight and let you know. Thanks!

No, I'll try and transfer internals over to my key / blade so doesn't need to be a blank. Just a working infrared sender is all I need. Cheers

No, that's my next question does anyone have an old 2 button IR key from an E39 or maybe late E36 / early E46 lying around from a wrecked car?

Hi all, It looks like the infrared sender in my 99 model E39 2 button key remote is dead (tested with digital camera with new batteries & no go) The led on the key is working fine and the EWS chip is fine as the car starts no problem. Does anyone know if you can swap the IR sender / rest of the internals from a working key over to my dead one (with the EWS chip as well of course to match my car) Not too keen on $450+ for new key from dealer if there is a way around it. Cheers, Russell

Hi Noel, awesome build! Apologies if this has already been asked, but did you have issues with rev cut (5200/5500rpm) when you removed the ABS? I'm looking to do the same on my track / hill climb 328i after reading about the E36 ABS ice mode "feature" I want to see how hard it will be to work around the cut-out from no speed sensor / wheel sensor signal before going down that path. Cheers, Russell

Not for an S50 as such, and not 2 in / 2 out but here is my AdrenalinR 2.5 single resonator and back muffler setup on my track M52 328i Great sound and much lighter than the factory twin pipe setup. Wanted to go 3.0" but was already scraping on the ground on the driveway and not much room under there for a big single pipe. As above it's for a track car rather than road but definitely not too loud. AdrenalinR are good products!

Bit of a late reply but if you are still interested... the post cat "o2 sensors" on my 328i were just temp sensors, not o2 sensors and as you mentioned they do not control fuel mix during closed loop operation. I've removed mine with an aftermarket exhaust and just shorted / wired together both sensors & don't have any issues or lights on dash.

Only issue with the re55 specials on tm is they are all advertised as 1 side only... I have no experience with the tyres but will it be an issue if you have one side right way round and the other side is backwards.. Ie the inside marking of tyre is on outside of rim