russellc2

Yeah my original question may not have been that clear. I'm after a track / sealed sprint / hill climb setup. I have another car that I daily. I'm just looking at options for the track setup & whether I stay square setup and a little wider all round (235-245/40 17) or staggered. When I'm talking about Westlake I am referring to the semi slick / track tyres. Not the road tyres which are probably in the same class as some of those tyres you mentioned Ron. Thanks for the all the replies guys - keep it coming

Thanks for the prompt replies guys! Sounds like the 235/40 option on my current rims would be easiset solution then. Maybe good to try before finding more rims. Although I'm looking at semi slicks like Toyo 888's or similar rather than performance road tyres. I've even heard that Westlake do a semi slick that isn't too bad for the price... So if I do that I still need something else road legal to drive to and from events with. Can anyone confirm if a 245/40 17 on an 8.5 inch rim would fit on the front of an E36? As you note Ron I don't want to loose too much of the feel of the car, but it is pretty loose at the mo (although I don't have a lot to compare with! and still on the average RE003's as you say) Thanks again

Hi all, Looking for some advice, currently running 17x7.5 style 24 rims and RE003 225x45 tyres (square setup) and looking for more track / sealed sprint oriented setup (and more grip!) I'm keen to stick with square setup and 17's - what do others use on track? do the e90 motorsport rims in 17 fit on ok? I was hoping to go 17x8 or 17x8.5 and 235x45 or 245x40 but not sure how the latter would fit on the front. Cheers, Russell

SOLD!

I'll try and sell the car complete for now! But if I do find a buyer I'll ask if they would miss not having it and let you know

And now on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1068658627&ed=true

Ahhh yes It may be one and the same car! It's been a year of driving many different things

Thought I would list here before going down the TradeMe path... 97,000kms Fully optioned including: - Black leather interior - iDrive (NZ Radio but not maps / gps) - Dual sunroof - Touch sensors on front doors - Cruise control - Auto Wipers / Lights - Dual climate control - Tiptronic with paddle shifters - Rear sun blinds - Heated seats - Parking sensors Towbar fitted 35% tints Feb 2015 full service including trans flush / new filter / gasket and long life fluid ($$$) Very tidy in and out - runs great! Few small stone chips and minor rub in paint on right rear guard, otherwise very tidy. Autosure mechanical warranty that can be transferred to new owner for $150 Selling to pump some money back in the house (and race car!) and go for something cheaper for a daily driver, but I will surely miss this car... Will upload more pics soon Looking for $24000 at this stage. Car is in Paremata, Porirua. Cheers, Russell

The main issue with mine is really the rear suspension. As most of the weight has gone from the rear of the car but still on 328i specific springs it's so high that I've got pretty much no negative camber. I was going to get the adjustable camber arms to try and dial some back in but I don't think it will help much until I get it closer to the ground. Will most likely go for XYZ coilovers sooner then, sell the koni's and try and figure out what spring rates to go for

Thanks Ron, plenty of good info there and some others have also advised to tweak sway bars before springs. Although I get different stories from different people Are you still running springs and shocks in your E36 or gone to coilovers too?

Not sure if you have already tried taping the flexi joint / extensions to get those bolts out of the gearbox... From memory I had around 3 long extensions connected to get them! Prick of a job!!

Are you still running interior Hans or stripped out too? Are you doing track work and road sprints / hill climbs or just track?

Thanks Geoff - sounds good. I'm doing Alexandra Rd hillclimb on Sunday 20th - are you doing that too?

Hi all, After some advice from others who have been down the same path... I have a dedicated track day / sealed sprint E36 328i M Sport coupe that's been converted to manual, almost fully stripped of interior / AC / stereo / speakers / amp / airbags etc. I have a single racetech seat in there and not much else, so I'm guessing around 150kg+ has been removed. I have near new koni shocks and struts and was hoping to stick with this setup and standard type springs for a while until budget can allow for coil overs (most likely XYZ racing & shortish springs) and a cert. I have the motorsport front & rear springs as well as a set of Koni sport springs that I was hoping would lower it a tad. Problem is due to the weight reduction it now looks more like an offroad racer than a track car and I've lost most of the rear camber due to the rise in height. Are there any options out there for shorter & stiffer springs or do I need to bite the bullet early and grab the coilovers now? Cheers, Russell

Thanks Glenn / Josh, that's what I was thinking. So you guys have just unplugged and / or re-programed your DME to get rid of the cat overheat light? I was thinking of just pulling the bulb if they never effect the tune....

Thanks Josh, although I'm not touching the primary (or pre-cat) o2 sensors in the headers, which I understand are used in closed loop operation. That would be bad! I'm replacing the cat's with resonators, so no-where to mount the post-cat sensors. Then I'm going with turbo style muffler at rear Question Josh, do you still have the rear / post cat sensors on your system, or just primary sensors which I assume are also in the headers on your S50? Cheers, Russell

Thanks Kelvin, that's what I've seen so far too. With them unplugged the cat / exhaust temp light comes on the dash but no CEL so far. I haven't driven yet but I'm not too worried about fuel consumption on hill climbs and track work too Cheers, Russell

Hi all, Wondering what others have done when removing cats (track car) with the post cat O2 sensors on an E36? Can you run some kind of resistor to trick the DME to think they are still in place? My 328i has 2, but I'm about to install a new cat less exhaust. They are 2 wire sensors if that helps & I assume it's just a temp / cat efficiency sensor rather than full O2 sensor like the ones in exhaust manifolds. Cheers, Russell

I was one of Mikes last customers before the doors were closed last year and unfortunately it was not a pleasant experience. I gave up trying to get hold of him after a month or so trying to get money back for parts which were charged for but not installed... Sounds like I was not the only one in this boat. I don't usually name and shame anyone but was pretty p1ss3d off after this experience! I was also going to try Mike Page in Kapiti for some diff work on my 328i, but haven't made it up there yet.

Update time - Fitted the new tensioner spring (was also 5mm or more shorter than original) and also did an engine oil flush and new 5W/30 oil just in case it was lifter noise. Still the same noise as previously so have ordered both the single vanos seal and rattle kit from Beisan systems. Question though from someone that has done this on an M52 328i. Do you absolutely need to lock the cams in place for this? Or can you just lock the flywheel to TDC on cylinder 1 and go for it? Could save me a bit of money

Hi all, Anyone out there with cam lock tools for an e36 m52 motor? Cheers, Russell

To report back, 11mm socket moved inside the pipe too easily. I now have a snug fitting 12mm 1/4 drive socket below the plastic elbow that connects to the intake boot, cable tied around the outside so it doesn't move. And it actually does make quite a difference to the rev hang, so give it a go!

I've removed the fan over winter (it's mostly a track car - no traffic to deal with) and about to install an electric replacement so no noise there. Thanks Jo I will pop the valve cover and take a look at the tensioner spring this week.

And sorry for the thread jack! Mint looking 328i too Dion, and great progress in the short time you have had it The manual sure does wake these cars up!

Hi guys, just completed a manual conversion (getrag rather than ZF) on my import 1995/96 328i too. I've also got the rev hang issue and looking to try a trick I found last night. Apparently it's mostly caused by the ICV, and you can reduce the effect of it by shoving an 11mm 1/4 drive socket into the ICV to intake boot pipe. I'm going to give it a crack and will report back if it helps! I've also still got the check engine light after my conversion. Is the TCU a separate box or a chip in the main ECU case? If the latter is it as easy as cracking open the case and removing the right chip? sounds too easy!