Olaf

Yes!  And on the topic of AA fuelcard savings banking, here’s how you play it.  Fuel up in $40 chunks.  Always “accumulate” (save).  Buy your fuel on BP’s 10c promo days.  And perhaps even use their app for purchasing fuel (additional discounts I think)  Before you know it, you’ll have a $2.00 per litre saving banked - just be sure you’ve space in your tank at the end of each two-month period.  I remember gassing up on 98 at BP Drury - 50 litres and I paid only for my NZ Herald.  The cashier was astounded.

How does that go for your workshop, mate?  

Sorry to read of this SJ, a real bummer.  Glad to hear your injuries are ‘minor’ (that is, no breakages).

heal well, mate.  The metal is replaceable, even though rare.

Welcome.  When you say you’ve checked the battery, what did you do to check it?  

If your battery is marginal, having fans/lights/radio on when you’re trying to start it only exacerbates the problem, as these items rob current from the starter circuit (Kirchoff’s Law prevails).   

Still, the battery may be a red herring.  Suggest you get it scanned by a BMW specialist, they can look at the stored codes and diagnose, and or fully load-test your battery and charging system (if that’s not been done already).

I could guess at things like cam position sensor or crank position sensor, but that’d be foolish and encourage you to load the parts cannon!  

Hope that helps.

an absolute stunner!  GLWS, Ray.  

On 4/17/2019 at 10:55 AM, SmithyInWelly said:

Nothing wrong with the old Magna/Diamante - sold them new back in the day, also had a VR Magna in Aussie that had a third pedal... jeez it was a great car, and cheap as chips to buy.

apart from that feeling of the rear end not being connected to the front end, at least with the wagons. Certainly a good power unit.  Though it was outclassed by the time they re-used it in the 380.

It's the younger twin-sister to mine.  Although now you're giving her the extensive makeover and and major transplant.  Great thread Cam, keep the posts coming!  

Liking your apron image.  5SQN?

^^ agreed!

Dave there's no argument here, you'll need to look in another thread. ?    Thanks for outlining your understanding.  It doesn't align with that of  FCP - a very successful company that has been doing this as their day jobs for decades now - and we're fortunate they took the trouble to write it down.

Quoting https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-great-debate-genuine-parts-vs-oem-vs-aftermarket   I sure trust that FCP are okay with linking and quoting their blog post here.  I think they have this sh*t totally covered.  Some here may find it instructional.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Is there really a difference between Genuine, OE, OEM, and Aftermarket parts? The short answer is YES! Since not all parts are created equally, how should you decide on what to buy? Let's break it down.

Genuine Parts

Simply stated, these are parts that were originally installed during production of the vehicle. There are several reasons someone may want to install Genuine Parts - they want to keep the car original or that they know parts are guaranteed to be compatible. There is no need to visit your local dealer to get these parts. FCP Euro offers these parts on their website, at more competitive prices when compared to your local dealer.

OE Parts

When a manufacturer makes parts for the production vehicle, they oftentimes create the same exact part, place their own label on the product, and sell it under their own brand. These are called OE or Original Equipment parts. Other than labeling, these parts are typically identical. Some of these OE parts are brand names such as Lemforder, Bosch, TRW, Sachs, Lemforder, Siemens VDO, and Valeo among others. Since these parts are the same quality as most genuine parts, they are a popular option amongst DIYers since the cost savings can be substantial in many cases.

Here is an example of Genuine vs OE sway bar links for a Volvo C30. The Genuine Volvo part is 2-3 times the cost of OE, yet it is likely that it was made on the same exact line as the OE.

OEM Parts

OEM parts are produced by a manufacturer that meets the high quality standards and produces at least one part for a vehicle manufacturer. FCP Euro recommends OEM replacement as one of the best options for quality and price. Typically all OEM manufacturers adhere to stringent quality control and are known to be exceptional quality. FCP Euro has completed decades of research and we are very stringent with the term “OEM”. Rest assured that every product we list as OEM will be of equal quality to that of OE or Genuine parts we sell.

Aftermarket Parts

As I stated earlier, not all parts are created equal. Aftermarket parts are created as an alternative to OEM or Genuine Parts. In some cases, such as clips, screws, fasteners, etc, the parts are virtually indistinguishable. In other cases, aftermarket parts are considered upgrades from their OEM & Genuine equivalents. In other cases, some aftermarket part quality can be lacking. FCP Euro offers a lifetime replacement promise and a guarantee that we wouldn't sell anything that we wouldn't put on our own cars. You can trust that the aftermarket parts you buy from FCP Euro are of equivalent quality and often quite affordable. If concerned about the fit of an aftermarket part, my rule of thumb is if the component being fixed is prone to leak, or it's a major job to replace, go with OEM or OE. Rear main seals and head gasket jobs aren't even that much fun the first time.

As I mentioned, even though these aftermarket companies don't supply parts to the vehicle manufacturers, it doesn't make them low quality companies. FCP Euro carries brands such as Meyle and Febi that meet or exceed OEM specifications.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

16 hours ago, qube said:

The burberry covered disaster?? Why would i want that hahaha

Go on, you know you want to ?

3 hours ago, m325i said:

whats the problem?

 

Original Equipment (OE) Parts: These are the same parts originally supplied to dealerships, except with the dealer logos removed. This is done by manufacturers so the parts can be sold outside the dealer network due to licensing agreements.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control

I think you may have missed the essential third discriminator - OE.  That is, this part is from the supplier who made the Original part for the manufacturer.  Extending Jon’s point above: e30 Tie Rods.  Lemforder, TRW are OE. Meyle would be OEM (under this new way of thinking) as they make/made *something* for e30 (or at least, some BMWS), but not e30 tie rods.

then with Meyle, of course there’s Meyle HD which is generally pretty good as they’ve improved upon the original spec (eg bigger ball joint in the e30 front ARB endlinks than Genuine or OE (such as Lemforder).

confused?  You soon will be.

HTH

Photo credit:  BMW Group

41 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:

I cheaped out and bought a set of Bosch blades. Wish I went OEM again as they're just so much better and you definitely get more than just a season out of them. 

Do you mean you wish you went genuine?  Bosch is the OE Manufacturer, along with Valeo, depending on model.

FWIW I’ve bought one set of BMW e46 wipers, and one set of BMW e60 wipers from NZ dealers.  I get about a year out of them, I use Rain-X on the screen and BMW washer fluid in the tank.  I bring them in myself, I think the apparent margin is too great.

Hasn’t been serviced for two years.  8 years old.  Some parts need replacing to keep it running well.  Under $1k for two years?  Try that in your Holden Commodore!

One can compare to a “reliable”** Japanese brand, but to compare apples with apples you must also consider driving experience.  If the 116i and Mazda 3/Toyota Corolla feel the same to you, buy the Mazda.  Agree an 8 year old lower km’s car shouldn’t need a new coolant tank but hey, it does, whaddyagonnado - gamble with your engine on a point of principle?

** people love Honda’s.  Friend of mine bought a brand new City, it was knocking a bit - could I have a look? 6 years old 58k km’s rod through block.  “There’s your issue!”.  Turns out they don’t like being driven without maintenance of any kind. 

wow.

10 hours ago, allan said:

Give it to your local fire station so they can use it for training.

^^This

VTNZ, jeez I've had them write down on the WoF form that it's a litre and a half low on oil.  They don't even know how to read a dipstick.  Better they stick to their core function!  Thankfully I've never had any stupid observations about suspension component replacements, and my local always seems to have a BMW keen-bean.

B12 Pro Kit must be nice, Brent.  Given there'd be a TUV cert for it, shouldn't be hard to run that against the standards and guidelines.  Thankfully they've never blinked at my Volvo, self-levelling (Nivomat) also removed.  They were self-contained units with soft springs; replaced with Sachs OEM & H&R Sportsprings.

Welcome, Ryoo!

37 minutes ago, deane30 said:

Has anyone bought these yet? Any feedback? I plan on getting a set this week. 

I asked my Bridgestone dealer about them a couple of weeks ago, he said he hadn't had enough feedback on them yet to be able to recommend them.  I'm waiting with interest.

I was thinking about manufacturing date.  Like 'Incept date'.  I wonder if Grey Thunder is more like 'Pris'.

it was time Grey Thunder had a shampoo.  So I gave her some Auto Glym love, and a dry off with my Rapid Dry Towel.  

an e30, this morning, just seven weeks shy of her 30th birthday.  snap by iPhone, processing by Adobe Lightroom.

that's it for now.  I've been concentrating on my 'SS Commodore in a sharp German suit', and my Volvo 855-T5, this week.

A spot of power steering fluid (200mls) has restored feel to the steering.  Ideally a drain and flush would be the thing to do. I’ll put that on the list for the next owner under ‘recommended next steps’.

It’s running really well.

10 hours ago, TermiPeteNZ said:

My wife's amenable to replacing the Mazda - I just need to work out if the lads can fit in the back ? ? 

Might have a squiz at an E87 in the weekend to work this out - and compare it to an E90.

I think the e87 may be tight on legroom for the lads, though worth qualifying.

I’m picking they didn’t have an e60 active steering rack on the shelf?

style 123 rims?

e30 fog lights?

21 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Now carless... going through an intersection at the Tristram Road motorway off-ramp on the green light I got "T" boned by 4 youths fleeing police in a high speed pursuit. Happened 12.15pm yesterday

Jeez Glenn, I trust you're uninjured, and your insurance replacement is rapid.  I was going to say Swift, but I didn't want to wish you a Suzuki.

Do the Police arrange a 'free shot' as part of restorative justice?  Bonehead playstation drivers.  Bring back the stocks.