Valvebounce

Damon at rocky auto on port hills Rd has experience with BMW. He's a top bloke, and pretty handy on the spanners too.

Just last weekend actually!

Thanks! I'm quite keen to list on trademe soon and move it on. I own nine cars at the moment, and life will get so much easier if I can make that seven.

Has current wof and reg too

Looking for some advise as to how much I should be asking for my nz new E34 525i. It's and 88, first reg Jan 89. Factory manual. 268k on the body, unknown on the motor. (It's an M20b25) previous owner swapped the motor from on which had suffered an electrical fire. New engine was mint inside, (someone had had the head recon, but not Crack tested) I got it not running and got to go. But then had to swap all.the parts onto another head because the one someone had rebuilt was cracked through the cam tunnels. Bore looked good when the head was off. New head gasket/bolts/ valve seals blah blah etc. The good, Nz new Factory manual Lush red leather interior The bad, Has a choppy idle (might be an air leak, I've bought one new breather hose but never fitted it) Fuel flap hinge is busted. Clear coat on bonnet and boot are a bit cooked Has some petrol smell. How much should I.Ask? Sorry about the potato photos.

I actually removed lots of Alarm stuff from the car a while ago. There was an Alpine alarm that is now kicking around my garage floor. Although it had a siren, but it's the horn that gets it's noisy on. I probably wont get the chance to f-k with it til the weekend now.

How do I remove the rear seat? I've never actually looked under there, since my battery is in the engine bay.

So after I figured out how to make the car run, and not have the horn sound after refitting the battery, I have a new gremlin. My central locking now doesn't work, (Can't even lift the knobs to unlock them from inside) Sunroof don't go, And wipers only work on full speed. I absolutely had get gas, and I never new that the central locking also controlled the fuel flap too. So now I have a broken fuel flap hinge too. (Something I'm not stoked about!) These three problems are clearly linked. (I've found in the past that I can't open (or close) the sunroof while the window is going up of down) therefore it stands to reason that they're interconnected. Anyone had this problem before?

My dash warnings are back to english too.

Thanks Neal. Uncle google had some other process. What I just tried was locking the doors, and then connecting the battery. Then unlocking the door with the key. Presto no hoot hoot hoot. And the engine even started. WIN. Mine is a very early E34 (1988) So it's often different from the ones on the WWW. Mine even has the battery in the engine bay, instead of under the seat. (Although that may have changed with the M50 changeover?)

I have an E34. The battery went flat for one reason or another. (I don't actually drive it much) I charged the battery up. Today I slapped the battery back in. The moment I opened the door, the horn starting tooting. Parp! Parp! Parp! Parp! etc. I already removed an aftermarket Alpine alarm from it. I tried to start it while the horn was sounding. But it wouldn't fire. (Strong smell of gas at the tail pipe)d any I never received any remotes of any description when I bought that car either. The PO is a mate who says he never had that problem.. Help.

That scoat is burned oil. if it doesn't hok out blue smoke when you rev the clacker off it, then you probably just have rooted valve stem seals. Also, if you're desperate, I have a m20B25 shortblock that has the crank pulley, chopper wheel etc still on it if you get stuck.

Any more ideas peeps? When It very first starts, it idles great for 30-45 seconds. Then it gets that choke on too hard/almost sounds like a miss sound about it. I wonder if the tappets are too tight?

Anything can be fixed. if it were me, I'd drill the broken out part of the bolt out. Maybe start with a small hole, and try an easy out first. sometimes when a bolt loses it's head the tension goes, and they undo easy as. I used to run 12.9 tensile cap screws (loctited in) on the flywheel of my old supercharged Datsun engine. One time after a monster over rev at the drags they flywheel came loose. (Those motors are known to do that) Most of then had the heads broken off. I was sh!tting broken glass about drilling them out on account of how hard they are. But they undid easy as. If an easy out doesn't work, then you'll need to drill it right out. Make sure you get the center punch mark in the centre of the bolt stub. Start nice and small, and work your way up. Get a mate to help sight for you, so you know that you're drilling parallel to the crack axis. Keep going up in size until it's out. I dunno how much room you'll have in your engine bay. (Might be an engine out job) If the shout of the crankshaft has fretted, whack it back together with generous lashings of loc-tite bearing retaining compound. "If at first it doesn't fit, fill it up with glue and sh!t".

Checked it how?