rolls_on_19

there are two levers on each end of the back of the cluster.

Use a bit of force and pull them out.

They rotate some gears and lift the back off of the front of the cluster.

From memory it took a bit of force but nothing felt like it was ready to break.

That gets you closer to the needle.

I just can't remember whether it comes out with the back piece or whether you need to remove the clear front

Big ups on the new home page. Lookin good :thumb:

Stockings are all good. You can get a couple of decent colours or even dye them.

Plus they still let heaps of light through unlike smoking them.

And if you get pulled over for it you can just rip them off

I found the spring rates completely different for 4 and 6 cylinder springs.

I tried a few different sets of springs to try get my car to sit right cos it's got 19's and the interior is stripped.

I settled on a set of A/C Schnitzer springs a while ago. From memory they were for an E36 325 sedan, and they're in my E36 318 coupe. They've worked out best with the new weight distribution.

Although the back sits a little high when unloaded

If you're handy with fibreglass or filler you could quite easily cut out the middle strut

I've got an E36 spoiler that i'd be willing to sell. Off an IS coupe.

Is it the kinda thing you're after?

Needs repainting on the top but the bottom has been repainted after some repairs to the centre strut.

Went in a speed test at Motueka airport and after pulling about 220 noticed the strut had disintegrated at the bottom.

Has the 4 brackets to fasten onto the boot lip without the need for holes.

At 18 Success is owning a BMW 

Word :bowdown:

Thanks Shelley. Great vinyls and cheaper than the local place charged me. And that was without postage.

Now hopefully i can get into a habit of getting vinyls cut instead of masking up my car, getting the spray can out and painting it myself :thumb:

I'm alright now thanks. All it needed was some lithium grease and the latch on the body adjusted. Apparently it's quite a common broblem on E36's

Tried to get into my car today and i couldn't open the drivers door. I managed to get in through the boot, luckily the seats were down cos my passenger door doesn't open either, and took the door card off to see inside.

There is a lever coming off the handle that pushes on another round lever which pops the door open. I noticed that it needs just a little bit more leverage and the door opens fine.

Has anyone else had this kinda problem or know of any way to adjust it? Otherwise i'll just start bending stuff and try get it right.

I suspect it might be quite common because my passenger door doesn't open from the outside and it's because of these parts also.

the location of the cross frame on the car

more

D1 damaged my E36 coupe and i'm after a couple of replacement panels.

I've bent the frame that goes across the front of the engine bay, the radiator mounts onto it and the bonnet clips into holes in it.

And also the thin panel that goes above the front kit. The kidney grills insert into it.

Can anyone get me a price??? i'm also after a price to get it sent to me near Rangiora.

Here are some pics of the parts i'm after

Also. Doesn't the deadlocking unlock when you use the inside door handle???

Was jus thinking bout trying this the other day. Can anyone see an problems with using a setup off a 4age or and sr20?

Obviously i would have to get a new intake manifold fabricated but what else would need to be done???

Any help or ideas would be great.

And i want to stick with the m42 engine okay

Went for a warrant the other day. Failed because i supposedly need a cert to baseball bat roll my guards and because my stop lights have apparently been altered so only the inside ones work.

The lights are standard and after removing the lights i found they're unaltered. I've got electrical training so i know what i'm looking at.

Does anybodies E36 have each pair of stop lights on each side light up? That means a total of 4 lights, not including high stop. Mine only light up the inside one on each side.

One important point to note- water does not burn!

You're right there conrod but then again. Neither does nitrous oxide. But that still works like a rocket up your tailpipe. Have you ever poured water on a petrol fire??? Boom.

Just think about what water is. 2 hydrogen, one oxygen,

trademe

Good stuff dude

Smeg! I need a special dictionary to keep up with you buggers!!

WTF is 'sacked' ???

Derived from the act of putting sacks of rocks in your boot. a.k.a boned. Unsure of background on that.

I'm pretty sure my mates wrx has it out the passengers side. Why's that? You looking for some parts or somethin?

I think i missunderstood your ?? though.

P.S I'm 19 now. But i had massive dreams when i was 17. Only thing that stopped that was losing my licence and the large stack of fines. nearly 2 large worth

Hey thanks guys. I was 16 when i bought the car too. I got the 19's when i was 17. And i'm from a single parent family so don't think i have a rich dad with deep pockets. I also had a rotary beech buggy but it kept blowing up so i sold it.

I'll post pics when i eventually do the stuff. I'm too busy helping build a wrx race car with my mate who's the same age as me. But it will be done. Nobody believed i was buying a bimmer then i did. Then nobody belived i was buying 19's, then i did.

Other thing with BMW is with standard brake pads these tend to eat disk rotors. I've normally replaced rotors at the same stage as pads (roughly 190,000 kms on my manual and about 120,000 on the wife’s auto)

The problem isn't with the pads eating the rotors too much. It's because the rotors are made soft to enhance the grip. That's why they brake so well and why you buy new rotors and pads at the same time.

Have a look at this site. They offer conversion kits for sr20det engines into e30's. You can actually buy just the mounts and driveshafts and sort out the rest yourself. I was gonna go down that road with my E36 but decided not to.

http://members.shaw.ca/turbofiero/kfg_speed.htm