agent75

Quite light . Made of ABS plastic maybe. Ill find out

I would but might be costly 

I have some E30 side skirts off an SE. They are not mint with some of the clips broken in behind and a bit broken at one end of one. I've kept all the broken bits I could find. 

$40

Hi all

my friend has an e46 and is having major wheel trouble. I'be convinced him to just get some decent wheels and tyres for a decent price indeed of tying to fix the current ones. It is really just a commuter so nothing special and no big brakes to worry about.

what is out there?

shane

Well, some great news which may be of benefit to others in my position.

After some googling I decided it was crank or cam sensors.  My work mate ended up having a reader so I plugged it in and ... boom! it was having an "intermittent intake cam sensor malfunction".  replaced with one off the original engine and it went faultlessly like a cut cat.  very happy and far less scared of electronic gubbins now.  so google was right.  I will post here if the problem persists but otherwise consider it solved!

forgetting the M10 here is the scene as I know it:

there are 2 gear boxes and two bell housings between them.  the 6 cylinder bell housing and the 4 cylinder m40 bell housing.  the gear boxes are g260 and g240.  The 325 has the g260 and the 320, 318 and 316 have g240. 6 and 4 cyl same pattern but they bolt up on different angles.  4 cylinder bolt angle same as M50 and M52 so 4 cly g240 okay for the swap.  6 cylinder bellhousing will make gearbox and gear stick sit on 10 degree angle on m50/52.  this makes 320 shitest conversion gearbox as you'll have the weaker gearbox with gearstick on angle.

Only the 325 has the medium case diff and larger half shafts.  Both the 320 and 318 316 have small case diff and small half shafts.

the bigger front struts are a lottery with virtually no chance on 316 318, some chance on 320 and very good but not guaranteed on 325......I think

Well, I experienced the hot start issue for the first time after my missus noticed it. As I have checked and replaced suspect injectors I am now turning my mind to cam / crank position sensors. I have some off the old engine so will try them. Firstly, does anyone have a code reader I could borrow for beers? I guess there may be some faults in there to avoid chasing my tail on this. Shane 

Re checked and found one injector leaking - only a little but engine was cold etc so may leak more when warm. I replaced injector with spare so will see how that goes over the next week. Thanks for the input gents 

44 minutes ago, Olaf said:

Fuel pump relay, or fuel pump.  assuming your filter is good.  that'd me my $0.02.

 

I started with filter, then did relay.  Still had intermittant hot start issue.  AA man tapped tank - started.  Replaced fuel pump, no issues since.

I think the filter and regulator are combined on my car... will see how new injector goes

1 hour ago, emandru said:

hmmm youre right, a faulty pressure regulator wouldn't causing any flooding and would likely cause a rough idle afterwards also.  I presume it idles fine after it starts up?

Idles beautifully  

On 11/2/2017 at 9:23 PM, emandru said:

sounds like potentially a leaky injector(s).  When you shut the car off the fuel line and rail remain pressurized until next start, but if you have a leaky injector, the injector will drip fuel into cylinder essentially flooding it causing the harder start scenario you're describing. If you wait long enough (ie. cold start) the fuel that would have dripped into the cylinder would have evaporated and this starting like normal. To troubleshoot, you can remove the fuel rail from the engine with the injectors attached and still connected to the fuel line.  Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the car and place paper towel under the fuel injectors.  This will pressurize the fuel line and rail.  If you have a leaky injector, you'll be able to see which one is leaking.  Could always be something else but this is what i suspect.

I did this test tonight and couldn't see any leaking. I will try again tomorrow as too dark now. It is definitely losing pressure as far as I can see as I used pressure gauge and ten minutes later almost no pressure. My only other option may be the pressure regulator but that won't flood the car soo wouldn't cause issue unless fuel is vaporising more easily due to lower pressure in rail??? Hmmmm  

22 hours ago, emandru said:

sounds like potentially a leaky injector(s).  When you shut the car off the fuel line and rail remain pressurized until next start, but if you have a leaky injector, the injector will drip fuel into cylinder essentially flooding it causing the harder start scenario you're describing. If you wait long enough (ie. cold start) the fuel that would have dripped into the cylinder would have evaporated and this starting like normal. To troubleshoot, you can remove the fuel rail from the engine with the injectors attached and still connected to the fuel line.  Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the car and place paper towel under the fuel injectors.  This will pressurize the fuel line and rail.  If you have a leaky injector, you'll be able to see which one is leaking.  Could always be something else but this is what i suspect.

Very Much appreciated. I shall do some  testing and keep you informed

My '01 330i is having hot start issues. I have not experienced it but the missus has described it to me. Has to crank for more than 5 sec before starting after warm and sitting for a wee bit. Sounds like fuel vaporisation but open to suggestions. I will put a pressure tester on fuel rail but just thought I'd ask here first. Never stutters while driving, excellent power, still lovely to drive, oil and water always good. Is there something that keeps pressure in fuel rail that may have "fuct out" and could cause  vapourisation. Poss injector leaking too?? Fly by wire so pressing accelerator when starting will achieve nothing right?? All input appreciated. Shane 

318 m40 manual box mates with m50 and m52 but not m20. I will have 89 manual 318 coupe for sale soon!!! ?

4 hours ago, Olaf said:

 

in e30 land, 325i has bigger rotors than 320i, and fatter ARBs to boot.  The 320i was the heavier than the 318i, less economical, and lacked the flair of it's atheletic bigger brother (the 325i).

Agreed on all counts.  I'll have to double check tonight the rotors. I could have sworn calipers and rotors are identical on all. They're  deff all vented

Unless I'm wrong , the 320, 318 and 325 I have in my drive all have the same brakes. All facelifts . I was wrong once though ?

On 10/18/2017 at 5:37 PM, Paragon said:

whats a Euro plate holder look like ?  got a picture ?

 

This is the plate holder I want which will accomodate a European licence plate. 

The Japanese import ones have licence plate holder which only accommodates small licence plate like this

9 hours ago, eliongater said:

Because New Zealanders like facades

You can see a sunroof from outside, but not the manual windows.

I loves my facades, I've actually decided to put a m40b16 auto in it but do it up to look like an m3 with papier-mâché body kit and Ali express m3 badges then hit the streets with my windows down and the system up :-D

I quite like the sun roof but it's just another thing to rust and "f#ck out" .  Funny how my two are no sun roof and elec windows (jap import) vs sun roof and manual windows (nz new)

My mates are all for the white one. Normally I'm not so pliable in my opinion but I'm struggling here. Oh for more space and time. One thing is for sure - bottle caps do nothing for these cars (although some may suggest my choice of wheels don't either!)

whoa! I think I'll keep looking, but thank you.

I need a few bits and pieces if anyone can help as follows:

euro plate holder

plastic triangles which cover inside of door by door mirrors (same on 2 and 4 door?)

standard car front spoiler lip

standard spoiler mounted fog lights 

Lol. Don't fight it! Go with it!

my 318 is not really a project, it will be fully functioning reg/wof etc.... but you should still buy it!

20 minutes ago, nick496 said:

 

It will probably be easier to flick the 318i as is, and track down a gearbox for converting the 320i.

I can't help agreeing, I can always use the M20b25 gear box as bargaining chips when it comes to doing M52 Conversion.

Mine doesn't leak........ yet!!

I'm interested, the white one has a manual sun roof and it is in sound condition, but are non sunroof ones a bit more desirable for some reason?  is it the "race car" thing where you don't really want a sun roof?

As mentioned in another post I have just purchased an E30 Delphin Metallic 320i auto coupe.  This may highlight my levels of impulsiveness but following a chat with my missus (very understanding of my "condition") I think I need to get rid of one of the coupes I have due to the space time continuum (I have neither the space nor the time for both).

My two cars are:

1989 E30 318i Manual Coupe in Alpine Weisse - Poverty spec NZ new - wind up windows but with Sun roof

1988 E30 320i Auto Coupe in Delphin Metallic - mid jap spec - electric windows , no sun roof

Both are tidy in the body with no evidence of corrosion.  the grey one has some typical but local corrosion behind the boot seal above the number plate. White one is lower k's but that is academic.  my original plan was to M20B25 manual gbox the grey one (I have the parts) and M52b28 the white one (I have most of the parts).  Reality says I should keep one and M20 it with a view to M52ing it down the track - and sell the other.  Obviously the white one has the gearbox I want for the M52 conversion but the M20B25 gearbox would also suit (but not as easily).

I like the odd track day so will be putting some cash in to suspension etc

What to do??  

Same deal as baurpower- I have one with spoiler holes. It's blue but has been painted over with peel off Matt black