gaijin

Threw in a crank belt shield, then crank bolt capture to contain any bolt movement causing crank hub movement. I wont put in a splined crank hub for now. Ill take my chances. Hard to match the OEM coral red leather so will take the closest better quality leather and dye it. Seat dropped to Waikumete Upholsterers

Short break to get my right hand mended after minor surgery, Finishing off some little bits, Roll cage is gone and interior coral red installed. Ill prob run the OEM passenger seat then retrim the racetech in coral red Fuel pressure reg re-tapped for m10x1 for low pressure fuel sensor, allowing fuel control module do its thing and pressures be read by ECU. No need for a gauge. Boost reference added from intake manifold. Fuel lines being p-clipped to floor, as per LTSA regs of 300mm distance between mounts, ordered 2 x turbo oil lines from greenlane speedshop, to oil pressure reg then turbo.

Some small bits, but will take some effort getting in Big end bearing widths are freaky narrow If I'm removing the front subframe to remove oil pan, timing chain etc to weld in the sump baffle and change the pan gaskets n bolts, I may as well do big ends, erm, then ARP rod bolts too. Invested in a half decent angle torque wrench too, time to get plastigauge kit too then Im into it

Aliexpress carbon swap of the rear diffuser, going a little more pronounced Old Old vs new

I hear you Ooonst, ultimately we create our destiny, mine I hope will be all four project cars lined up beside each other, and all finished/working Im itching to restart working on no.3 of 4, reimagining it a little more from before, a BMW DCT behind a Toyota 5s bottom end, 3s Gen 5 Dual VVTi head, cnc'd, 2.3l all forged mega motor that I've already built. All wrapped into a street Celica 1972. Weight will be around 850kg, with the same in hp. This is helping me to move more on the BMW, a simpler project, but always learning

Spent the day getting the brakes back together, taken the whole day, after getting the clear coat and curing for a few days. lots of wire brushing crusty brake bits. Orbital sanded rust off discs. All connected up with hoses so ready to be bled. Used new M12 12.9 cap screws to mount the calipers to the brake mounts

Prob the strongest spark I can get for the n54. Nissan r35 oem coils, B58/S55 BMW 2 step colder plugs to fit the coils. Modified by changing out the coil stalk with the platinum race products. They're much longer so that they reach and snap onto the plug tip. Plugs have a different tip to the n54 types, hence the change. Needed to stretch out the stalks internal spring so the coil resistor would fit snug. Loom is a universal type from PRP. Coils held down with prp bracket, fits well, sturdy enough. I avoided the anodized purple and went with black

Cerakoted Burnt bronze C-148, good for 500+ deg C they don't do a clear above about 180deg C. But a super hard one with UV stability, non-yellowing, MC-160 is what they recommend for brakes and outside, external use. It'll keep the cheesy stickers from floating away. I didn't want to spray some supercheap auto paint over this, far too good for that. Waiting for the clear to come from states before the final coat and reassemble. Stickers are higher heat type. They look quite 'munnitions military, less gold than I was hoping for too. 👍 Rears wont get the re-build kit, as all seals were still soft n pliable, fronts were not, so get full treatment once cleared. Even started the Maxx Ecu file tweaks for the cars setup

Elias, looks good. In keeping with how the OEM coolers sit ala 1M and 335iS, leave the frame rails alone, no drilling FTW.

N54 adapter for Maxx ECU installed to auto loom also converted to manual, removing the large round plug to transmission, replaced with the manual section of loom that has the reverse switch for the 6spd. 1st pic top side is 6M, lower loom on 1st pic auto loom section. Done apart from coils, inj and single O2 Extra auto guff not needed Next loom jobs, remove coil section and injector sections of loom, lastly plug for a single Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensor. That'll remove the twin bank scenario and O2 sensors burning up, itll go 6" past the turbine housing down in the dump pipe. 6M OEM loom into adapter; Lower two black plugs go into Maxx ECU

Other work to date; EV6/USCAR injector harness made and installed 1M front carbon bumper extension/lip whatever they are called. Work to finalise the oil cooler mounts to lock them in well. Needed the front crash bar removed to install the LHS oil cooler bracket that isnt a 135i item, but a 335is OEM piece, fits fine. Hard to find tho. Also the little plastic retaining nut that sits inside the chassis frame rail. RHS oil cooler finished, apart from sealing in the air gaps to force air through the cooler, will get some seals and foam to close that up later. The LHS top mount needs to be fabricated to mount back to the frame rail, likewise the new oil bracket off the front crashbar/frame rail needs to be modified to mount the vertical plane of the cooler on. Ill prob rivnut x 3 into the steel bracket and bolt back to the cooler shroud. Moving to heavier duty territory with the coils, going R35 GTR using the PRP coil bracket. Lastly, brakes are almost cerakoted and done, colour sample here;

Maxx ECU N54 adapter arrived. You have to pay to play sheesh... This allows the use of the OEM engine harness to plug between the Maxx ECU race and the harness. Minor looms aside like coils and injectors. Pretty happy with the quality.

Yeah darn, all black from now promise, just getting things to fit first before final order 🥴 Leftovers from another build from when xtasy and catchit were fashion

OK, so fuel tank is back in, Another fuel filter for the 8AN main feed, engine bay mounted, easy to reach Need some different fittings to attach 8AN to fuel rail, turning into some sort of meccano set, keep it simple stupid, Regulator mounted, one fitting needed for the return to reg from the rail, return to tank done New BMW Accessory Drive Belt Kit - 11287628652KT fitted, Brakes ready for cerakote, changed out the caliper bolts to 12.9 cap screws Ill keep working on the fuel system. Going to Port injection only means bigger than 750cc injectors, 1250cc's at 45psi arriving tomoz. Probably change out the chinese FPR to a turbosmart, keep things decent.

Yip the local suppie, High pressure injection being deleted Removed HPFP, add cover Removed index 12's Add SS blank plugs and hold downs, similar to the stock ones. Then forced into HP injector hole N54 Maxx ECU adapter on its way from Sweden, allowing me to run stock engine harness up to the adapter, then into Maxx Race ECU. Its NOT child labour, its work experience....time to strip the rears