gaijin

Threw in a crank belt shield, then crank bolt capture to contain any bolt movement causing crank hub movement. I wont put in a splined crank hub for now. Ill take my chances. Hard to match the OEM coral red leather so will take the closest better quality leather and dye it. Seat dropped to Waikumete Upholsterers

Short break to get my right hand mended after minor surgery, Finishing off some little bits, Roll cage is gone and interior coral red installed. Ill prob run the OEM passenger seat then retrim the racetech in coral red Fuel pressure reg re-tapped for m10x1 for low pressure fuel sensor, allowing fuel control module do its thing and pressures be read by ECU. No need for a gauge. Boost reference added from intake manifold. Fuel lines being p-clipped to floor, as per LTSA regs of 300mm distance between mounts, ordered 2 x turbo oil lines from greenlane speedshop, to oil pressure reg then turbo.

Some small bits, but will take some effort getting in Big end bearing widths are freaky narrow If I'm removing the front subframe to remove oil pan, timing chain etc to weld in the sump baffle and change the pan gaskets n bolts, I may as well do big ends, erm, then ARP rod bolts too. Invested in a half decent angle torque wrench too, time to get plastigauge kit too then Im into it

Aliexpress carbon swap of the rear diffuser, going a little more pronounced Old Old vs new

I hear you Ooonst, ultimately we create our destiny, mine I hope will be all four project cars lined up beside each other, and all finished/working Im itching to restart working on no.3 of 4, reimagining it a little more from before, a BMW DCT behind a Toyota 5s bottom end, 3s Gen 5 Dual VVTi head, cnc'd, 2.3l all forged mega motor that I've already built. All wrapped into a street Celica 1972. Weight will be around 850kg, with the same in hp. This is helping me to move more on the BMW, a simpler project, but always learning

Spent the day getting the brakes back together, taken the whole day, after getting the clear coat and curing for a few days. lots of wire brushing crusty brake bits. Orbital sanded rust off discs. All connected up with hoses so ready to be bled. Used new M12 12.9 cap screws to mount the calipers to the brake mounts

Prob the strongest spark I can get for the n54. Nissan r35 oem coils, B58/S55 BMW 2 step colder plugs to fit the coils. Modified by changing out the coil stalk with the platinum race products. They're much longer so that they reach and snap onto the plug tip. Plugs have a different tip to the n54 types, hence the change. Needed to stretch out the stalks internal spring so the coil resistor would fit snug. Loom is a universal type from PRP. Coils held down with prp bracket, fits well, sturdy enough. I avoided the anodized purple and went with black

Cerakoted Burnt bronze C-148, good for 500+ deg C they don't do a clear above about 180deg C. But a super hard one with UV stability, non-yellowing, MC-160 is what they recommend for brakes and outside, external use. It'll keep the cheesy stickers from floating away. I didn't want to spray some supercheap auto paint over this, far too good for that. Waiting for the clear to come from states before the final coat and reassemble. Stickers are higher heat type. They look quite 'munnitions military, less gold than I was hoping for too. 👍 Rears wont get the re-build kit, as all seals were still soft n pliable, fronts were not, so get full treatment once cleared. Even started the Maxx Ecu file tweaks for the cars setup

Elias, looks good. In keeping with how the OEM coolers sit ala 1M and 335iS, leave the frame rails alone, no drilling FTW.

N54 adapter for Maxx ECU installed to auto loom also converted to manual, removing the large round plug to transmission, replaced with the manual section of loom that has the reverse switch for the 6spd. 1st pic top side is 6M, lower loom on 1st pic auto loom section. Done apart from coils, inj and single O2 Extra auto guff not needed Next loom jobs, remove coil section and injector sections of loom, lastly plug for a single Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensor. That'll remove the twin bank scenario and O2 sensors burning up, itll go 6" past the turbine housing down in the dump pipe. 6M OEM loom into adapter; Lower two black plugs go into Maxx ECU

Other work to date; EV6/USCAR injector harness made and installed 1M front carbon bumper extension/lip whatever they are called. Work to finalise the oil cooler mounts to lock them in well. Needed the front crash bar removed to install the LHS oil cooler bracket that isnt a 135i item, but a 335is OEM piece, fits fine. Hard to find tho. Also the little plastic retaining nut that sits inside the chassis frame rail. RHS oil cooler finished, apart from sealing in the air gaps to force air through the cooler, will get some seals and foam to close that up later. The LHS top mount needs to be fabricated to mount back to the frame rail, likewise the new oil bracket off the front crashbar/frame rail needs to be modified to mount the vertical plane of the cooler on. Ill prob rivnut x 3 into the steel bracket and bolt back to the cooler shroud. Moving to heavier duty territory with the coils, going R35 GTR using the PRP coil bracket. Lastly, brakes are almost cerakoted and done, colour sample here;

Maxx ECU N54 adapter arrived. You have to pay to play sheesh... This allows the use of the OEM engine harness to plug between the Maxx ECU race and the harness. Minor looms aside like coils and injectors. Pretty happy with the quality.

Yeah darn, all black from now promise, just getting things to fit first before final order 🥴 Leftovers from another build from when xtasy and catchit were fashion

OK, so fuel tank is back in, Another fuel filter for the 8AN main feed, engine bay mounted, easy to reach Need some different fittings to attach 8AN to fuel rail, turning into some sort of meccano set, keep it simple stupid, Regulator mounted, one fitting needed for the return to reg from the rail, return to tank done New BMW Accessory Drive Belt Kit - 11287628652KT fitted, Brakes ready for cerakote, changed out the caliper bolts to 12.9 cap screws Ill keep working on the fuel system. Going to Port injection only means bigger than 750cc injectors, 1250cc's at 45psi arriving tomoz. Probably change out the chinese FPR to a turbosmart, keep things decent.

Yip the local suppie, High pressure injection being deleted Removed HPFP, add cover Removed index 12's Add SS blank plugs and hold downs, similar to the stock ones. Then forced into HP injector hole N54 Maxx ECU adapter on its way from Sweden, allowing me to run stock engine harness up to the adapter, then into Maxx Race ECU. Its NOT child labour, its work experience....time to strip the rears

Yeah for sure it's nippy, stage 2 fbo was 3.3 so not hugely quickerto 100, Once it's up to speed i.e 80kms plus it's much quicker, with DSG and TVS tune it's something else. Definitely a license loser. Dragy GPS testing with a decent boost leak only got me a high 11 1/4. Shameful. Expect a 11 flat now that's all sorted 👍, on public coarse chip Mexican roads no prep of course. First project car that has an actual end to mods. Time for something more serious, the 1m. Then there are two more serious after that.

EKP v2 cooler arrived and installed, its kinda plug n play, not pricey and a worthwhile mod with a larger pump Inside, no heatsinks, you can see its been getting hot, resin has browned a bit heatsinks mounted on New cover with fan back in its home Not a BMW photo but looking good as a family car tonight, now its cold itll be time to see/get the dragy times, the TCU tune feels really aggressive with solid larger turbo spool sounds. 0-100 still in 3.1 zone on a warm day on NZ roads, winter and wider front PS4S and semis on the back should/could improve a little, running 255/30/19 fronts with 235/35/19 rear, off square as per RS3 option. Slides around nicely now Spoke with Dan at Torque about Maxx ECU race purchase, Ill get the n54 adapter from pnpecu directly. Be gone BMW ECU, be gone!

Like I've been in purgatory FML

Elias, I think Aliexpress for both. The sealant comes in a box curled up like licorice, so you just roll it out and shove it in, heat it for a while in the oven and push lens back in, repeat 2- times and its sweet. Getting the old hardened sealant out is the misery. Better to do this, some people use the old sealant or just lay over it, meh, rather try do it just once. Will get them ceramic coated to try and last as long as possible if the car ever sees the sun... Tefanball Factory Store 1Pcs Butyl Rubber Glue Headlight Sealant Retrofit Reseal Hid Headlamps Taillight Shield Glue Tapes Car Door Seal Accessories NZ$ 23.35x1 gouhuo Store For BMW 1 Series E81 E82 E87 E88 2004-2011 Headlight Shell Transparent Headlamp Cover Lens Plexiglass Replace Original Lampshade 2PCS left and right NZ$ 154.12x1

Promise this is the last fuel tank post. Finally got my head around what I wanted. Kind of a DIY Stage 4+ OEM EKP with cooling controlling 535, Remove OEM pressure reg and filter by cutting away, revealing a -6 or thereabouts nubbin to directly attach to from the check valve, fed from the 535. Outlet of check valve the only restriction, i.e. the smallest diameter, but this is only for 1-2cm. . This nubbin here, connects directly to the top hat externally, now fed from check valve and 535. -6 to -4 thereabout, the final restriction frontier! Ill leave it, check valves are needed to start the car quickly without draining all the fuel back into the tank Two separate fuel feeds up and out of the OEM now filter less and regulator less hat, removing every major restriction Feeding two separate -6 lines joining a -8 line with 10 micron on one line, -6 return to pump side hat. The two feed lines; One 450 pump triggered once some level of boost is reached, One spare in tank pump not connected. Replace all quick connect connectors, feed and return lines, note double O rings Pressure regulator to engine bay se to 70-75psi. So its a properly controlled returned system without much restrictions, easing the life of the EKP controlling the 535, all via PID to the LPFP with sensor up next to the HPFP as per OEM. Precision raceworks sell a drop in reg/filter hat but it'll be $1.5k or so. Far too much, this will do the same Tank goes back in today, cleaned SS fuel tank hangers and painted ally mounts Happy to have fuel tanks out of my life now, really happy.

Ok, so more general admin on the car, while patiently waiting for parts to arrive. New Tial Q BOV, genuine! onto new front facing plenum charge pipe, all fits well, minor miracle. Using some prefered products for air pressure plumbing, NPT 90 deg swivel fittings w/ high temp nylon hose for the BOV to under the intake manifold fitting. Turbo guard as a no filter option Headlight lens 1 sealed back onto housing and completed using all new headlight specific sealant, happy with the results for sure. Glad wrapped to fend off any garage rash Not going to paint or powder coat the calipers, but Cerakote C series ceramic coat them. All stripped down, replaced the calipers bolts to grade 12.0 cap bolts instead of the star headed 10.9s that are easy to strip, as two did whilst removing to separate the caliper halves. Colour likely https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-148/burnt-bronze new AP Racing seal kit inc dust boots and nipples arrived. New AP Racing CP5555 pads, very similar to ferodo DS2500. Will get calipers sandblasted first, not thats there any paint left, but to get a good key/surface finish for the cerakote to bind to. A 5 day cure tho after application... After reading for days and nights the fuel tank is back out for a Walbro/Ti Industries 535 aka 295 pump as the main pump. EKP cooling mod approaching also...found a 3d printed new cover that incorporates a fan alongside heatsinks to go inside. It'll need more fuel if I delete the HPFP and Di, more to come on that... While im under the car I may get hubs and arms cerakoted while im digging around in there. The US military use it on some of their weapons, and found a local who is reliable and cheap applying it, save myself anymore cancer breathing it in. So for sh*ts n giggles, the HPFP and HP injectors will be removed shortly and to run port injection only. It some ways its a backward step. The system is pretty good, if not getting very pricey to replace these parts. Its the ECu being the biggest headache when N54 start getting pushed. Going standalone ECU, this is a major step in being able to control the engine as opposed to suggestions with the MSD80/81, and avoiding a life dealing with MSD codes. I've experienced enough, now Ive read enough to have made my mind up. HPFP and Di delete kit on its way. Thank you to Dan Buchner on this decision. https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-n54-di-injector-delete-kit/ Might get my money back on a Maxx Ecu with the prices of index 12's these days sheesh

The brakes, the giant brakes. Red has faded, chips in the paint etc. I've put brakes on cars, but these are the best I've had. Took about 4 passes with the stripper to get them ready for paint, Chicken or the beef? Ill have brakes tonight thanks I do note that the AP racing pads are down from 16mm new to 5mm, so cant say they havent been used.

Headlight time, picked out the old seal, what a mongrel, took hours. Dont think Ill be doing LED strips etc, pretty happy as they are now. New lenses ready to get gooed back on

Cheers man, It'll just be the one lpfp on the pump controller, the other two at this stage will be powered directly from the battery via a relay and hobbs switch under the intake manifold. May look at what zero to 60 did with solid state relay. If I can fund a maxxecu later then I'll run directly from that, or more likely the reflex+ and use PWM so the two additional pumps aren't all on or off. Tuning wise, Ive tuned this car over the years myself, but will see later as to what ECU or ECU and piggyback I run with. Only used a tuner twice in the last 20 years, the golf r recently and then Soichi when he was in business for the Celica TA22, but lets see later