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Joel61

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Posts posted by Joel61


  1. Just now, jonoe30 said:

    Sounds exactly like a broken fan clutch as its moving in time with engine revs. The clutch allows the fan to spin freely when disengaged until the clutch expands thermally and locks the shaft to the casing, rotating the fan in time with the engine. There's nothing electronic involved it's operation.

    If you're replacing it yourself remember it's reverse threaded and you'll need a thin wrench to get at it. When you pull it out you'll need to carefully lift the fan and shroud out at the same time. There's lots of how-to's on youtube you can watch.

    Awesome! Thanks so much for clarifying this for me. Is there anything I need to look out for when buying a new fan clutch? 


  2. Hi guys

    So I recently picked up another E46 320I and I am having a problem.

    It seems the clutch fan is always engaged. 
    When the car is off and cold I can't manually spin it, where on my other E46 it can spin freely.
    When I start the car up, it sounds like a bus, with the fan spinning really fast and pushing out a lot of air which I can feel when I put my hand over it. Where with my other E46 it start spinning slowly like it should when I first start the car up.
    When I let the car warm up it still seems to be spinning very fast and does not slow down from when I initially started the car and, when I give it some gas it sounds like a bus taking off.

    Now my question is, is the fan clutch buggered and should I replace it, or would it be something like the temperature gauge that is reading wrong causing it to stay engaged?

    Thanks

    P.S If you need anymore information or a video, please let me know


  3. Thanks for the offer @Michael. but I have fixed the issue.
    ---
    So I have fixed it. This is what I did:

    1. Turn off the car.
    2. Remove fuse 10, 34, 43
    3. Start car again.
    4. Turn it off again.
    5. Put in all the fuses, turn on again and it worked.

    So what I think happened was that the battery got to low causing the gauge cluster to glitch up. When I charged the battery back up it initially didn't make a difference as the gauge cluster was still glitched. Removing those fuses and putting them back in basically restarted the gauge cluster and got it working again.

    And yes the battery is f**ed it was losing 0.01v every couple of seconds so I have now replaced it with another battery.

    Thanks guys for helping out!
    • Like 1

  4. So first off here is the video so you know what I am taling about:



    So basically I went to get in my car just before and it started fine but gauge cluster would not work along with that screen spazzing out. I tried to get it into reverse but it wouldn't go in as if it hadn't detected that the key was in. I tried restarting the car another 3 times and I could finally get it into reverse.

    Things I noticed wouldn't work are:
    • Indicators (they work but don't show on gauge cluster)
    • gauge cluster
    • middle screen spazzing out
    • can't get car out of park sometimes.

    Says traction control is off even though it's on

    This is the first time it has happened and it has been raining today (car lives outside) so I am guessing thats the reason why. Something has just got wet. So at the moment I am going to leave it till the morning to see if it fixes itself.

    Any ideas what has gone wrong or what is shorting out so I can fix this and prevent it from happening again?

    Car: E46 320i 2001

    Thanks!


  5. Hey everyone

    So every so often my yellow/orange oil light comes on, then when I turn my car off its still on. Once I turn it back on again it goes away and and doesn't come back for a while. I checked the oil and it seems to be full. Does this mean I have an intermittent sensor?


  6. Great project. Like the way that it issues little room in the dash and the apps your using.

    The issue you where having with the Dacs is the factory amp was expecting balanced audio so running a unbalanced output of 2 volts doesn't give enough drive. The BMW balanced amp input is expecting close to 8 volts . So basically you get 5 watts per channel peak.

    Thanks for this information, it now makes much more sense.

  7. I like apart from the loc of the headunit. been looking at ideas for the e36 but cant think of much apart from an iphone or ipod touch.

    Loc? And it would have to be an android phone instead of an iPhone or ipod as you can t use anything like tasker on that, but yeah an android phone would work for you, it just might be a bit to small. You can always install apps that change the DPI to make everything bigger so buttons are easier to hit and text is easier to read

    Edit:

    Oh just worked out you meant location...


  8. I wish I could fit one in the dash of an E36 but it would require some modification of the dash since it's only 7.5 inches wide not 7.87 and the A/C controls would need to be relocated.

    I had to relocate my Ac controls, but you could always get a bracket or Window mount and mount it on top of everything, it won't look the best, but it still means that it's fully modular if you want to take it in and out you can

    Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk


  9. what are the rough costs involved to do this?

    For me I did a bit of trial and error, so I cost me much more than it would cost you in total with all setups, but to do setup #3

    (all prices are in NZD)

    Nexus 7 (second hand) = $90-100~

    Bezel = $30 (from ebay)

    Secondary head deck = $70-150 (depending on what features you want, or if you already have one it's free)

    USB car charger = $3

    And I think that's everything

    So compared to existing units it is much cheaper.

    With my parts, it was about $200~ (prices may of changed since then)

    Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

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