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4 NeutralAbout Newcomer
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Rank
1st Gear
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Name
Noah
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Location
Auckland
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Car
1990 325 Mtech II
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Car 2
Some boring Toyota
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Do you know if your e34 is a pre-facelift? I think the PFL e34 shared the same mounting system as the e30 except with a bigger wheel (385 mm vs 370 mm). The facelift e34s had a different wheel that wasn't compatible with e30s or earlier e34s. I think the e36 mtech II wheel was also different and did not fit on e30s.
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Looking for a tech II wheel, fine with most conditions as long as it is restorable, but price will obviously depend on how much refurb it needs.
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Hi everyone, I have an e30 I'm tidying up in my spare time and am looking for some advice on how to proceed. So far I've been working on the mechanicals myself over the weekends but I also want to tidy up the bodywork which I know nothing about. The problems the car has are the following: - Tiny amount of rust behind the front wheel arch where stones have chipped through the protective coating. Rust seems to be just around the edges and at a very early stage (don't see any pitting, definitely no flaking). I'm guessing just sand and respray with protective coating? - One of the previous people who have worked on this car probably tried to trolley jack on the inner sill where one of the factory jacking spots is. This has resulted in the sill bending and splitting along the length (probably ~20 cm) of the factory jacking spot (the V cross-section shape of the sill has split into | |). There's some rust inside the split, not sure how much though. - Birds must have sh*t on this car daily before I got ownership of it. The reason I say this is that every flat surface has clearcoat problems but the vertical ones appear to be in perfect condition. Judging from the color of the paint, I'd say that either the paint over the whole car is all the same age or somebody has done a very good job color matching. - Speaking of the paint issue, I also have chips on the sideskirts, front and rear bumper, and along the edge of the driver's side door where it's probably scraped a wall while opening. I'm a DIY type of guy but I don't know anything about bodywork, nor have the tools necessary to do welding and painting so I'll need to take the car to a bodyshop to deal with all these problems. I'd like to ask for advice on the following: - Would it just be better to just get the entire car repainted if I need to do so many areas (front panel, roof, 1x C pillar, trunk, front and rear bumpers, sideskirts)? - I've done my research on which places are good but I doubt I can afford them as I only have 5k budgeted at the moment. What sort of job can I expect for 5k for the sill repair and paintwork? Better to just wait and save up more and take the car someplace nicer? I'm happy to do prep work myself such as sanding and filler on stuff that I can remove from the car such as bumper and sideskirts. Thanks for taking the time to read my wall of text (and hopefully offering advice ).
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Is the sump guard still available? It should fit on a non-SA spec e30 with the holes drilled?
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I'm no expert (the only stock suspension e30 I've ever driven had badly worn shocks) but I've heard from a number of people that the Bilstein + H&R combo replicates the feel of the original motorsport suspension quite well. I'd say it's definitely less stiff than some of the more stanced e30s that I've tried out though I have no idea what those were running. There's a bit of bounce in it and it clears speedbumps well but there's definitely a lot less body roll than the Toyota Corolla that I daily (as if these two can even be compared). And well spotted, it is a lefty.
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Hi guys, Always like the classic appearance of the oldschool BMWs, so I got an e30 since I can't afford the other models and ended up with this thing: I would have taken it out to do a better picture but currently it doesn't run since I'm in the process of doing the traditional new owner maintenance schedule (timing belt, waterpump, etc). It needs a bit of maintenance done in general (paint fixes, seat reupholster, fluids, rust fixes) but the body seems to be relatively clean and accident free. No boot, roof, fender, or pillar rust as far as I can tell though there is a bit on the inner sill where it looks like someone has used a trolley jack and crushed the sill as well as removed the rust protection coating. Anyhow, I aim to restore this as well as I can within my budget and just use it as a weekend car. No hooning or anything like that, gonna keep it in good condition and preserved for future generations! (If anyone is wondering why it is sitting lower than the factory sport suspension, one of the previous owners replaced it with the Bilstein + H&R combo)
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It seems like many of the enthusiasts in NZ are against the idea of a LHD e30 (unless its an m3 where the only option was LHD) but like what one other member has mentioned, the LHD makes a better candidate for turbo setups. Since you don't have the steering column fouling the exhaust, you can do the turbo conversion with less fabrication than a RHD e30 and minimise the restriction caused by routing the exhaust. You should be able to run enough boost to rival the power of a s5x engine while still keeping it safe enough to DD.
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Hi people, New to this forum, looking for something more interesting than the auto Corolla I DD and ended up deciding to get an e30. There doesn't seem to be anything that interests me on trademe at the moment so I came here. After one that's in reasonably good condition, don't have the skills to revive a rustbucket as a project and save it from the scrapyard. Preferably in the upper North Island as well unless you have something extremely tempting. Don't mind which engine is in it, m20 or m40 is all goods for me (or even an m42 if I'm really lucky). Coupe is slightly preferred but wouldn't mind a nice sedan. Please PM me or post here with asking price/link/pictures if you are looking to sell. I'm reasonable with prices but do keep in mind that I'm not looking to spend as much as a 325is/mtech. Cheers, Noah