NZ00Z3

Yes I'm in Timaru and have some spare time to look at a project for you.

PM sent

Thank you for the offer, I have a new one on the way.

Been reading up on ADS again to refresh my knowledge.  A couple of links below may be helpful.

Check your 20 pin connector, if pin 15 has a wire in it, then you definitely need OBD1/ADS to read your modules.

https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/bmw-and-inpa-success-e39-e46-onwards.74608/

https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/bmw-inpa-diagnostics-an-idiots-guide-to-getting-started.85220/

https://www.car-auto-repair.com/bmw-obd1-obd2-and-ads-socket-knowledge-introduction/

I agree that an old computer with ADS is the better way to go.  Finding the old computer with a com port is the hard part, then there is the setting up of the system.

I was please to finally find an alternative in the Foxwell NT530 that talks both OBD1/ADS and OBD2 to cover my needs.

I would recommend the Foxwell NT530 scanner loaded with BMW software.  Approx NZ$300.  Its what I have for the ODB1/ADS work I do and I checked it this morning to ensure that it covers your car.

https://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale/nt520-pro-scanner-with-bmw-software-installed.html

Hi James

There is probably nothing wrong with your INPA setup.  The problem is with your early model E39.

The Early model E39 will be still on ODB1/ADS and your INPA setup using the USB port only talks ODB2.

To talk to your E39 via the 20 pin connector under the bonnet, you will need either:

- A very old computer with a Com port to set INPA up on and a ADS converter.  

- A scanner that talks ODB1/ADS.  I have checked my Foxwell NT530 scanner (with BMW software) this morning and it will talk to E39 540's from 3/96, so it will cover your car.  Maybe its time to buy a good scanner.

Regards

Murray

Daughter had a Pukeko verses car incident that took out the grills.  So looking for pre face lift grills for the E46 323.

Happy to pay postage.

The first assumption is that the car had no faults when you purchased it.  Usually shown by the lack of fault lights on the dash.

The second assumption is that they fixed any previous issues right the first time and recorded them in the maintenance history.  You can ask for the maintenance history

Cover your self by getting "all" of the car modules (computers) fault codes read, recorded by you and deleted.  You now have a base point that says anything that comes up is new.

We lost a late model, low milage car in that hail storm.  Damage to the A Pillar and other structural areas.  Looked at buying it back.  Couldn't get a WOF until structural report from panel beater or manufacture was produced for damage or repair.  Couldn't just fill the dents and repaint myself.  Became just too hard and expensive to do.

They would make great parts cars.

Brent is correct about the hail damaged cars with broken windows being treated as water damaged cars.

NZTA started to ease back on WOF's (hail damage) so that people could keep the cars on the road while everything is being sorted out with the insurance companies.  But for how long that continues is yet to play out.

Hi

Looking for another car for the wife and a E91 touring 320d (build date 8/11) looks good.  Been doing some research into the potential problems of the E91 and found lots of information on timing chain failures on the N47 engine.  The car I'm interested in has a N47T engine but I can't find out much about the reliability and its  resistance to the timing chain issue.  Anyone know about these engines?

Regards

Murray

Hi Jon

Welcome to Bimmersport, nice car.

I had problems getting the infra-red remotes to synch on an E46.  Discovered in the end that there are a set of slightly different instructions for the IR remotes to the normal synch procedure.  Attached is the instructions that worked for me.  Sorry for the poor quality, a copy of a copy of a copy etc

Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf

If you turn the ignition on without the airbag connected you will get an "AirBag" light.  To clear the light requires a special scanner, INPA or similar software.

Here is a how to guide that may be helpful https://zroadster.org/threads/remove-bmw-z3-window-lifter-mechanism-motor.13419/

Hi Paul

Welcome to Bimmersport.  Nice Car.

I was once a member of BMW NZ, but lost interest due to the lack of South Island events.  Would likely give it a go again if things start up again.

Regards

Murray

Have you cleaned the VANOS solenoid?  It might be stuck and not adjusting the VANOS.

The Idle control Valve manages the rev's up to around 2,500 rpm then the throttle body takes over.  Have you checked to see that the throttle body butterfly is opening when you press the accelerator?

Flat battery?  What is you battery voltage?  It should be 12.5V

Looks like its pin 13 on connector X332

Pin out https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/YiZx8Vi

Wiring diagram https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/dSjHwgZ

The original struts may have a spring on the end of the rod, where as the Bil's don't.  I know from fitting new struts to Z3's that the new struts look too short until you fit them due to the spring.

Did you measure the height by just dropping the car back down onto the ground?  You usually have to roll the car back about a car length to let the suspension settle out once off the jack/axle stands

Are the Sachs the original struts?  

Was the car lowered at some stage by a previous owner?

Looks to me that you have purchased the right struts for a standard model 330i.  I'ld check the part number on the springs to see if they are original and their spec.

You will not get much change out of $500 for a Z3 rack, so the manual rack for $150 may not be so bad.

The pump side of the ABS unit is usually very reliable, the electronics side is less reliable.

Have you used the activation part of INPA to exercise the ABS unit to see if there are any stuck pumps/valves.

 Attached is a file on the Z3 ABS electronic problems.  As you have the same unit it may be of interest.

BMW Z3 ABS Module Repair.pdf

Try this INPA install link  https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2184573-The-Z3-Diagnostics-Thread-Instructions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

The thread owner gives good support.

My guess would be coil or plugs

Problem solved

The clutch switch that was present was for the "clutch fully depressed to start" function.  He had to add a clutch switch for the cruise control function.  Once it was added, everything worked as it should.