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NZ00Z3 last won the day on June 30 2022
NZ00Z3 had the most liked content!
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184 ExcellentAbout NZ00Z3
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Rank
2nd Gear
Previous Fields
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Name
Murray
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Location
Timaru
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Car
2000 Z3 3.0L
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Car 2
2000 Z3 2.0L
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Car 3
2000 E46 323
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
Recent Profile Visitors
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NZ00Z3 started following E46 320i M52TUB20 High fuel usage..., I bought a Z3 with some issues., E46 M52TUB20 ac issue - ac compressor not getting power. and and 7 others
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You were lucky with the spare throttle body in the boot. They are expensive to buy. The attached PDF gives you the rear ride heights. You are correct with the F0 airbag module internal fault, call Pramod to see if he can reset the module. Hope the repairs go smoothly and your daughter likes the car. BMW Z3 rear ride heght measurements.pdf
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E46 M52TUB20 ac issue - ac compressor not getting power.
NZ00Z3 replied to Arata's topic in Electrical system
Have you checked the operation of your electric radiator fan. It should start for a second or 2 every time you start the engine. The DME records the success of the start and uses it as a pre-condition to starting the A/C compressor. If the fan is faulty, then no A/C. -
For the No DME communications problem The E46, 323 still has the 20 pin Pacman diagnostic port under the bonnet. The lid has to be on that port for the OBD2 port in the cabin to work. OBD2 port is only for the DME and EGS. The rest of the modules get accessed via the Pacman port. You need pins 7 and 8 joined in the OBD2 end of the K-Dcan lead to read all the other modules. For the no rev problem: Clean the Idle control valve. It controls the first 12% of throttle opening. With the engine running, floor the accelerator. It no rev's then the DME is holding the engine at idle due to a fault somewhere. Either Throttle body or ASC\DSC throttle control Check that you don't have an ABS light up. I've had one case on a E46 328 where the ABS module had failed and was changed but not coded. The engine would start and idle but not rev. Coded the ABS module and all was good again.
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An interesting read: https://www.autocar.co.nz/nzs-classic-car-sector-is-worth-11-billion-new-survey-suggests/ And it only covers people who belong to car clubs that are members of the Federation of motor clubs, so, it's only a sample of the whole car enthusiast market.
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It will help to know the model of the car. Is it a E46?
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97 Z3 M44 swap to M54B30, best place to find one?
NZ00Z3 replied to 1990's Mechanic's topic in General Discussion
The Z3 has a weak ass end. The amount of power you are talking about will eventually break the rear sub frame out and drop the diff on the ground. Read up about the Randy Forbes sub frame fix. It's a kit of metal parts that gets welded into the subframe and stops the problem. There are both cast iron and aluminium block M52's. The cast iron will be better for boost and it can withstand more PSI. Not sure how common the cast iron block is in N.Z. Have seen people import them from the USA. The M52 family can get a little confusing: - M52B28 = 2.8L single VANOS engine - M52TUB28 = technical upgrades 2.8L dual VANOS engine. Basically a M54 -
48yr male seeks other males for........
NZ00Z3 replied to 1990's Mechanic's topic in New Member Introductions
You are getting some great advice from @Eagle. Better to buy a cheap 2.0L 6 cylinder (M52TU20) powered Z3 and swap in a 2.8L (M52TU28). Bolt for bolt swap and an easy DME (ECU) update for the larger engine. Just a Diff ratio change may be needed. Feel free to send me a PM to swap phone numbers and we can chat. I've down to 2 Z3's and have done lots of work on them. -
Only seen one Z4 coupe manual over the last few years. Trademe auction with $29k start price. Don't know what the reserve was.
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I've seen 2 or 3 manual Z4's over the last couple of years on TradeMe. There is one on there now: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/z4/search?transmission=1&auto_category_jump=false
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The set is for one seat, $30 plus postage (if any) Send me a PM for contact details
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I have an element set already removed from an E36/7 (Z3) standard seat.
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That sounds like normal operation. The heater circuit needs to be operational to get the O2 sensor hot enough to work. The voltage switching you are seeing is normal. What are your fuel trims at hot idle? See my earlier post on what to check for both banks.
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2-3 ohms is for the heater circuit. The sensor circuit will be kilo-ohms when cold. INPA can be used to check the O2 sensors. There is the heating %, usually > 80% and the lambda reading, which should switch between 0.1 to 0.8V at hot idle.
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Mixture problems are reflected in the fuel trims, so check the 4 fuel trims with your scanner. If any are > 8% at hot idle then you likely have a vacuum leak. Short term fuel trim = INPA integrator Long term fuel trim = INPA Multipicative
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That looks like the rear wheel. The reluctor ring comes with the half shaft. There is a place in the states that sells just the reluctor ring so you don't have to go to the expense of a new half shaft. https://www.reluctorrings.com/ Try to work out how the damage occured, so it doesn't happen again with the new ring.