rod_r

Contemplating an i3 certainly makes you evaluate your use case senarios in more depth. As a one vehicle solution, I don't see how a BEV can work - particularly for that 1-5% of the time you want head out of town. I cant imagine going on too long a trip making 150kn jumps with charging stops. A PHEV seems like a pretty versatile option, [ or for the i3 a 94ah rex ]. TBH, a 60ah REX would actually cover all my needs but the newer model and slightly more range would be a nice compromise. I also worked out for my average 7k km per year, adding in RUC's + charging costs, this is not about saving money on fuels [ coming form a 5L/100km car ]

Thanks for the input. I envy the Tesla range but have no interest in one. I think I’m going to look for a 94ah bev and do a fast charge in Hamilton when I go down rather than carry around a Rex motor for infrequent use.

Part of the appeal of the i3 is the look. ( same foe Honda e ) I prefer that an ev looks like an ev. i struggle to get excited for the ev’s that look like any other car.

I guess any European car 7-10 years old is a crap shoot. Reading and watching on line, seems people are overwhelmingly positive about them

I’m considering an i3. I would go with a BEV but I have to make a few trips a year to Hamilton from Auk, so would probably have to settle on a Rex. The whole battery replacement question has not been answered as far as I can see, so am a bit uneasy about it considering I’d be buying the 60ah or 94ha which are now 7-10 year old cars with 50-100k. Appreciate any insights

Recently started looking for an e30. Ideally it would have as many of the items listed as possible. 1. Automatic 2. Alpine white or silver 3. 325 or 320 4. Basketweaves 5. Leather interior 6. No sunroof 7. Located in the Auckland region 8. Realistic pricing for the current market

If your stuck with an automatic due to a bad knee, is 6 cylinders always going to be better than 4.

Genuine question. I’ve recently started looking for an e30 automatic. Would have preferred a coupe but I’m coming round to 4 doors. Not too bothered about 4 or 6 cylinders. Anything that doesn’t look like a basket case is north of 10k, and I genuinely feel like prices are high on the bottom spec models as they are being dragged up by the higher spec cars…..nothing seems to be selling, yet owners remain fixed on price. Today a 4 door 318i auto was listed for 12k, and to underscore what I’ve said, it appears it was purchased recently for nearly half that. How can you buy with confidence in this market?

I’ve just started to look for an E30 and wondering how much importance you’d place on a leather interior. Seems like one area you would not really want to change. as an older driver with a bad left knee consigned to an auto, I’ll have to get satisfaction from other areas of the car besides performance.

Well, I guess "reasonable price" is open to interpretation. 4 or 6 doesn't matter 2 door I'm 52, so wont be slamming or swapping, hence the preference for stock or close to it My benchmark is the e21 I used to have in my avatar. It was immaculate but a manual which for me didn't work, and I paid 10k for it

The e30 in my original post went through a PPI today. A reasonable list of minor items which I believe showed a general lack of maintenance by a previous long time owner, plus a shorter list of not so minor items which, when added up would have meant too high a total cost for that car. the search continues

Prefer something at the upper end of the condition scale that doesn't need a shopping list of repairs, and prepared to pay a reasonable price for it. The closer to stock the better.

Bit of a random question, but are the number of WOF failures an indicator of potential trouble? I'm looking for an e28/e30 as an "everything but commute" car and a couple of possibilities with similar prices are; e28 / about 200km / original but looks a bit tired / a few known minor issues / 9 WOF failures since 2000 e30 / about 150km / original and looks mint / no known issues / 16 WOF failures since 2000 Additional question. For the same price, which car should be in better condition, ( has to be auto unfortunately ). cheers

Hi. Are these still available? cheers, rod

I thought my e21 was missing the plastic triangle shaped covers over the wing mirror locations but I just found them in one of the door pockets. The passenger cover wouldn't go on properly then I noticed the chrome trip at the top of the door panel was mounted slightly too far forward and was not sitting down onto the door trim like it should. I need to lift it off and reinstall it about 5mm further along the door, but I don't want to break anything, so how does the chrome trim come off? I can take a pic if it helps. cheers

A couple of items from the PPI; Rear suspension springs not captive Rear shock absorbers weak Add to that, that the car has been lowered a bit and feels fairly hard over bumps, I'm looking at doing some work in this area, so have a couple of questions. 1. Can I just replace the rear shocks/springs. 2. What's a good source for these parts? I'd prefer to stay stock, or very close to it, currently running 185/70R 13's

G'day. It has the standard seats. Not sure about lsd yet.....I need to get a few things like jack stands etc first. The thing that has saved this car, and is shown in the box of receipts, is that the same family owned it from 1990 until 2013 and boy did that guy spend ALOT of money on it. I need to do the cambelt now I know that it was last done in 2004, even though the car has only done about 7k since then. Still has the original bavaria tape deck

power steering feels relatively heavy but in a good way I like that it doesn't have power windows / power sunroof / aircon.....just good old fashion winders and fresh air

There are probably a few more things to fix than I had hoped but I still think overall it's a good buy. The body and interior are very tidy. It's underneath as you'd expect, that some work is required. The list more or less included; new tyres required rear suspension springs not captive excessive play in steering rack output shafts excessive play in steering rack end joints a couple of areas of very minor corrosion in engine bay brake and clutch masters signs of leaking oil leaks from front timing cover, power steering pump, rear of sump, bell housing gear box oil leak from tail shaft output area weak rear shocks compression was also a bit varied. the guy said it wasn't burning any oil and looked to be burning evenly but the reading in 5 was only 100, while the others were 125 / 130 / 140 / 150

Hi Just bought a 1982 323i. Not my first classic but my first BMW. It is very tidy, and will be a weekend car. Had it checked over and needs just a few maintenance items updated, but seems to drive well. I will probably get the initial stuff done through a shop, then slowly take over the easy stuff myself once I know the car better. It has had the single headlight installed but comes with the original double setup. Photo is from a previous owner, as I don't pick it up until Saturday.

Bought one thanks to this site. cheers

pm sent. Budget depends on condition of car, so happy to pay more for a good straight one. 4 or 6, doesn't matter

G'day. Looking to buy my first BMW, and as I'm around 50, I prefer the older models. Would have gone for a 2002 but really need both kidneys, so am set on an e21. Preferred spec; Manual Carb Black interior Reasonably original regards, Rod