cliffdunedin

posted to Dunedin please

Don't buy into the hype that the more expensive ones are better. I've used the more expensive ones then bought a 10 pack of 3M ones off ebay for like $15 shipped and they did just as good a job as the more expensive ones, at the end of the day it's a throw out product, i'd rather not throw away money if i dont have too.  

Bit of a late update but it was a cracked CCV pipe!

Noticed the small amount of oil leaking by chance when checking that the camshaft sensor was fine.

1 1/4 inch spanner also does the job

Scan it... I need to say no more

Sorry forgot to mention, no codes.

I noticed a few days ago that there was a stutter/vibration that had developed as I accelerated from stop or under low RPM to a higher RPM, it seemed to leave at higher speeds and as the engine heated up. I went home and i saw the fan slightly wobbly so rolled up a newspaper and bingo the fan clutch was gone, I ended up buying a new clutch and installing it, the wobble of the fan is gone but that stutter/vibration is still there. I don't seem to lose any power with these vibrations but am stumped what it could be because of this no power loss.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

nb: Waterpump and belt has been replaced in the last year.

TIA guys

or................ you could put that money away each week for when it really shits it self ... that is what I would do.... good luck !

Has to be one of the most moronic statements I've ever read here... and that's saying something!

As above for my m52!

Hey guys does anyone have a decent 2nd hand one out there, price plus freight to Dunedin!?

Cheers

Thanks for your reply Allan, I can get maybe 2 presses before the pedal goes hard and it is still stiff when I come back later, so im assuming time for a new booster.

i'll give the rack a tiny amount of adjustment and see how that goes.

Hey guys,

The e39 failed on a WOF today for brake boost not operating and play at RH Steering rack.

The brake pedal is really hard when engine is off but seems normal when the engine is going, I've googled about the brake booster and thought it might be the water issue as the car was parked up under some Macrocarpas for a few weeks and i washed the car this AM before the WOF but after checking and finding some debris, the brake booster well/enclosure was nice and dry. I haven't scanned it yet but does this sound like a failed booster or master cylinder? Also the DIY's i have seen on youtube are from the e46 and it seems the enclosure around the booster is not able to be removed like the e46, can anyone explain (or link me) how to remove it.

The guy who did the WOF said there's a small amount of play and it should be able to be adjusted, is the adjustment screw (?) on top of the steering rack just need to be tightened slightly?

Thanks heaps team

What did the new key sting you Lucan? I nearly lost my only coded one at the Rugby club the other night and really need to get one before that dick Murphy and his stupid law hit me.

On a similar but slightly off topic note does anyone know where I can get new windscreen rubber trim from? I have a chip that's turning into a crack but the factory windscreen needs replaced as it has 20 years of small chips all over it and i want that replaced at the same time lol

I am still of the belief the best compromise tyre on the NZ markey and NZ retail prices is the Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2. I got 20,000km out of a set and they were really good all round.

I have had F1 Asymmetric 2's on for a couple of months now, nice ride, grippy in the dry and quiet but have noticed wet weather grip (on round abouts) is not as good as the 001's and 002's

Nah these are just cool white ones, i'm just wondering if there actually has been a change in the law re these or the testing dudes were just full of it.

Is there really any difference between aftermarket rice rings and factory rice rings?

They would just be considered driving lights wouldn't they.

That's exactly what i said to them when they brought up about OEM.

I too have had real problems with the RE002s switching from the 001's just over a year ago and at first they were a good tyre but wear was getting pretty bad on the back wheels for a 6 month old tyre (i don't light the rears either) and took them back to Bridgestone, who said it must be that particular batch but replaced them under warranty, then a few weeks ago I was tightening the handbrake and noticed the inside walls of one of the new rear tyre's had begun to de-laminate i took the car back in, told them I don't want these dangerous POS on my car and to either source me some Asymmetric F1 - 2's or give me my money back!

Hey guys, got a WOF today but was told by the VTNZ guys that Angel eye rings are now illegal to have and will fail a WOF, I said thats cool and was ready to cut the ballast out so it would pass, but then asked the testing guy to show me this change as it had passed the past few just fine. They spent about 20mins trying to find it but couldn't so gave me the WOF but I just wanna know from you guys if anyone knows if this is true. TIA

Dude, that sucks! Surely with the gold rivets and Kingstars they would be a bit more obvious... Hope you catch the scumbag!

Thanks toast ill see if i can pinch one from the auto wrecker first @justin I didn't even know there was a euro wrecker down kv road I'll give him a try. Cheers

The top hat bolt piece, anyone have a couple they can send me please

Have you had a look at the CCV valve? Some symptoms seem to align with that going bad from what I've read, but don't take my word for it I'm not a mechanic.

Another silly suggestion: by accident some oil couldn't have gone into the plugs during the RCG change right?

Yeah you're right, the symptoms do sound similar but i don't think i could have done anything to upset the CCV during a RCG change.

The Valve covers are crap plastic and crack if you try and tighten the bolts much over 7 foot pounds.

Its likely a vacuum leak.

Did you put Sealant on the 1/2 Circle bits?

Plastic valve covers??? Eh?? There is a cosmetic plastic cover but the actual valve cover is magnesium alloy (which is why they oxidise badly). You can overtightened the bolts and split the rubber grommets though which could cause a leak.

The cover does feel like plastic but i'm fairly sure i didn't damage the cover. i put gasket seal on the half circle bits, the rubber grommets are new as well.

Could a leak around these areas cause this issue? It never changed the idle much if i opened the oil cap while it was running before so assumed that wouldn't be a problem.

Complete off-topic, but I for one enjoy reading Ron's posts and hope he'll keep posting despite not being appreciated by everyone...

I agree! There's always some opinion, some statement and some truth, all delivered in a usually negative way... but it's always more helpful than not.

Hey guys. Did the RCG change yesterday which should have been pretty straight forward but stripped one of the cover bolts i put it all back together and tightened the stripped bolt as tight as I can.

Once started it was immediately trying to stall and would have without some accelerator, after a couple of revs it seemed to sit at about 600rpm ok but still not feeling or sounding right, I took it for a good 10 min run and all was well no lack of power/noises/vibrations etc but at lower revs it came back. I returned home and gave it a scan and nothing came up. I checked all the Rocker cover ground wires, Coil packs, AFM, couldn't find any air leaks, ICV has been cleaned in the last year or so.

Edit: I also cleaned and scraped the rocker cover while it was off and have noticed that when the accelerator is lifted it slows qicker than normal.

Does anyone have any ideas what this issue could be? Cheers heaps

Cheers bro, thermostat and alloy housing all ready done and ordered a metal impeller pump from Paul yesterday