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About Crozzy

  • Rank
    1st Gear

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  • Name
  • Location
  • Car
    2001 E46 330ci
  • Mods List
    Manual swapped, E60 shifter
  • Car 2
    2005 Audi A6 4.2

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  1. Pulled from my 2001 e46 330ci for a manual conversion. 182k on box, shifted smoothly as it should. Includes torque converter. $800, located in Porirua, can be shipped. Will list on TradeMe in a week.
  2. The acceleration with the 3.38 is fantastically responsive, and great for onramps or when you're wanting to do some really spirited driving, but I've found myself not always wanting to drive the car like I used to, takes too much effort. Anyone got a diff off of a manual lying about that I can take off your hands? If so, name your price Cheers
  3. Looking to replace the clutch fan on my e46 after a manual conversion. Thought I'd look second hand before ordering new. Anything around from a vehicle being wrecked?
  4. Just a little update to end the thread in case someone one day encounters the same issue. I have only just solved it now as the car was working fine regardless and as such it wasn't exactly a pressing issue to fix. That being said I had some time today to try again and I managed to clear the error by changing the last line of the ASC fsw_psw from manual back to 'automatik' to see if it would make her happy. Low and behold, it worked! No more dash lights, huzzah!
  5. Cheers for the reply. From what I gather removing option $205 is for facelift models, prefacelifts have to play around with hex codes as I have done unfortunately. Seems to be heaps of documentation for coding the former and very little for the latter. It also seems to be advised not to use "process car" and instead code only the modules you actually need to to reduce the risk of communication loss and destruction of modules. I'll have another play around today and see if I spot anything obvious that I missed the first time. Thanks again, appreciated!
  6. After completing the hardware side of the manual swap on my 2001 (prefacelift) e46 330 I've gone ahead and attempted the coding as well. It seems to have been mostly successful, I no longer have the cog icon on the dash, however the ASC is disabled due to fault 151 (Coding Issue). After many hours attempting to Google-Fu my way to a solution to no avail, my next stop is to see if anyone here has any ideas. Here are the steps I took. Used NSC-Expert to write modified VO to EWS and KMB modules. (Removed checksums, changed SA last digit from an 8 to 0, recalculated checksums) Used NSC-Expert to recoded KMB, EWS and ASC modules with a blank FSW_PSW. Used INPA to clear all adaptations in DME. Car drives normally otherwise, no faults in the DME
  7. That would be superb if you could! I've been looking around for about a month now and while the sedan inner taillights are very common it seems the coupe ones are near on impossible to source. Only other option is to get one from overseas from what I can tell. As far as condition goes, I feel anything would look better than this eyesore!
  8. Turns out finding coupe boot lamps for the e46 is a real mission. Should've fixed the peeling seal when I noticed it..
  9. Superb, thanks for the info! I'll keep them in mind My current thought is this kit https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/clutches/listing-2386561821.htm?rsqid=5c867f979e6b4f5a882bc335b0d66d0d-001
  10. Thanks for the replies! Ahh, cheers. I cleaned the flywheel I have off and gave it a tickle with the copper hammer and that freed it up. Did the old teeth marking to check the play and it's beyond spec and making a funky scratchy sound so in the bin that goes. Think I'm gonna just bite the bullet and pick up one of NZAD's lightweight flywheel and clutch kits off TM, do it once do it right and all that. Cheers!
  11. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/listing-2393077392.htm?rsqid=d6ebce0a401c4491ac6b5d9a7c6cdc18-001 Kia ora guys and gals. Been planning to do a manual conversion on my 330ci for a while now, got a conversion kit from the wreckers but the flywheel is heavily corroded and seems to be seized internally so I figure there's no point putting it into the car. This E46 M3 flywheel on TradeMe seems to be a suitable replacement, however no matter how much research I've been trying to do I can't find a definitive answer on if it will work. The internal diameter seems to be the only thing I would think would cause an issue, but it looks to be the same as the non-m counterpart. The clutch doesn't matter, I'll ditch that part or get a new friction disk with the suitable spline, I'm only unsure on the flywheel. I'll probably chuck a lightweight flywheel in down the line, but just looking for something to chuck in for now so I can get the conversion done. Hoping someone more knowledgeable than me will have some insight! Cheers
  12. Final update for this thread, in case someone encounters the same issue as me and stumbles across this thread: This Saturday I went back to pick-a-part and grabbed the hydraulic tensioner I spotted the weekend before. Here's it off the old block. $11 And the old mechanical tensioner and pulley I pulled of my motor It seems the tensioning spring in the mechanical unit was worn and making an unpleasant sound. It was doing its just still, but admittedly did sound a lot like a failed pulley. Worth saying though, if you think you have failed pulleys and you still have the mechanical tensioner, you''re better off replace the whole thing with a hydraulic tensioner. Unrelated, I also picked up a oil level sensor from another wreck at pick-a-part for $29 as the one in my vehicle is faulty. Figured it was worth the try to see if it works by replacing my definitely broken one next service. I'll be sure to replace the o-ring though. Anyway, that about wraps things up. Thanks to those that offered insight and/or advice, helpful as always. Chuuurr!!
  13. Thanks for the info. I took a quick trip to Pick-a-Part this arvo and managed to find ONE e36 with the hydraulic tensioner (I checked against the kit you attached, seems identical and should fit the e46 too) installed instead of the mechanical, but unfortunately I didn't have any tools on me, and by the time I go to the shop to grab them and head back it'll be closed. Looks like a mission for next weekend!
  14. Alrighty, I finally got some free time, so update time: I pulled the fan and shroud off and took the belts off to check the pulleys. They didn't seem too bad turning them by hand, but as I had the replacement pulley on anyway I put that on the tensioner as the noise is definitely originating from there. After putting the belts back on it's still unfortunately making the noise. Out of curiosity I removed the belts and ran the engine for a bit and the sound is definitely from something driven by the belts. After a bit of listening through the screwdriver-scope and some observation, it appears the tensioning spring itself is the cause of the noise. Is this possible? At this stage I'm planning to purchase a whole new tensioning unit but I thought I'd see if you guys had any thoughts. Would it be worthwhile spending the extra bit for the hydraulic conversion? Cheers!
  15. Update: Thanks for the replies, much appreciated! Took the intake scoop off and moved the air filter out of the way to get better access to the belt and pulleys, and used the screwdriver scope (Thanks @Eagle) and it's definitely the tensioner pulley! The idler pulley seems to be alright. I've ordered one and will fit it when it arrives. I really should've checked them when I did the waterpump/thermostat job.. Cheers guys!
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