monkeygod11

My boost solenoids were replaced about 18 months ago but I'll keep them in mind as they may have crapped out since then, thanks

So Saturday had less stutter/hesitation but also had 3 out of 5 sessions stuck in traffic. The 2 sessions I got a chance to go for it (ignore the lap times times, biggest upgrade needed is the driver) I got a bit of the hesitation and then on my last lap going over the finish line I got limp mode and 30FE DME: Turbocharger. boost pressure too high and 31 00 DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation codes come up. Cycled the ignition and is running ok again. Have attached logs but don't know if what I was able to capture is helpful. Engine oil temp never went above 125c on the dash gauge. So thinking my hesitation could be tune/boost related as opposed to engine or trans temps (granted have no idea what temp the trans actually is), if anyone has any thoughts they're much appreciated. Log-20210515-124457 Pukekohe Park 15.5.21 - session 3 - Interpolated.csv Log-20210515-152154 Pukekohe Park 15.5.21 - session 5 - Interpolated.csv

I just meant cost of the car to begin with, everything Japanese here that could be decent on the track is well over priced compared to the US and UK. On my first track day I was getting overtaken by a lot of old Hondas but think that was more the driver than the car haha

Haha nah have learnt my lesson on doing that. A Z3 looks like fun as a track car and not too pricey. Surprising how in NZ if you want a cheap car with decent handling and power BMWs are pretty much the only option (not that I'm complaining)

I just want to be able to go do a track day maybe once a month or bimonthly and it not die but I get what you're saying. lol seen the price of M3s? Definitely not in the budget 😥 Have looked at 328s and 323s as maybe a cheaper way of getting a track only car but by the time that is sorted may as well just fix my 135 up

Getting 15 or 20 min session done without issues is the dream, looks like I better see if anyone will give me a good price on this extra kidney I have. Will see how Saturday goes and see what I get from the logs, hopefully it'll point me in a direction of what to sort first.

Thanks John I'll use that store on Aliexpress you did, looks good and even if it doesn't fix my issue a better intercooler isn't going to hurt. Appreciate the story too, good example of not getting too focused on one thing. Cheers will play around with the app (Car Scanner) I've found and make sure I've got those set up before Saturday.

Mods are Dyno tuned to 340whp, xhp transmission flash stage 2, catless downpipes and an upgraded charge pipe. So have just discovered I'm not going to be able to get the oil temp logged this Saturday as seems only things like MHD and Carly can get this info on the e82 and I won't be able to get my hands on their adapters in time, anyone know how accurate the gauge on the dash is? I know it's so hard to nail down what could be causing this as it only happens on the track, but starting to think it could be the intercooler, I remember they said 340whp was the max they could get with it in it's current state as it was getting heat soaked, once it's fully hot on the track the stutter/knock starts around the 3.5/4krpm range, then once I let it cool it's fine until it heats up again. Could anyone point me in the right direction of the intercooler to get on Aliexpress? There's just a bunch and quite hard to tell which is a decent one. Thanks all for the advice so far!

Still on the stock intercooler. Yea that's true at the time I wasn't thinking of track days but now I'm doing them I should probably go back and see if the tune should be changed. Will ask them about the tune file. Have got hold of a Bluetooth obd dongle thing and will use it this Saturday to show live data and try and get some logs to hopefully point me in the right direction of where to upgrade first. What sort of temps should I start worrying about? Thanks for your advice so far!

So the stuttering sounds likely to be a result of the heat either from the engine or transmission? Yea custom dyno tuned at eurosurgeon so not easy to flash back to stock. Thanks for the info will have a good read and looks like I better start saving for my transmission and oil coolers, the tune I have is way too much fun to go back to stock.

Just seeing if anyone has any ideas or has had this happen to them. Car has been tuned and has xhp flash on the 6 speed auto trans. After around 6-10 laps once the car starts getting real hot (analogue oil temp gauge on the dash showing 120-125c) it stutters, almost feels like a misfire but no codes come up at all when on WOT around 4k RPM. Have been told it's probably the oil and transmission getting too hot and that a transmission cooler and an upgraded oil cooler should fix the problem but they're not cheap so trying to make sure they will actually fix it before dropping the cash. I'm on the track again this Saturday and will try to get some logs to see if they can provide any useful info. Appreciate any insights anyone has, cheers

Sorry mate I'm up in Auckland and have had all my work done at Eurosurgeon (I only do the basics on mine), no idea about Wellington.

I've gone from 241hp at the wheels to 343hp at the wheels with catless downpipes and a dyno tune, everything else still stock. With a new intake and upgraded intercooler would be looking at 380hp-400hp at the wheels. So easy to get big gains out of the N54, just make sure the engine is healthy by doing all the maintenance on time and correctly.

Ah right, lesson learned for next time! Thanks for the help.

About a week after buying the car I got a low battery warning so the dealer replaced the battery.

Ok sweet thanks. I'm not sure, didn't think to ask, what do you need to do to check if there's any parasitic drain? I can get hold of a scanner that's able to register batteries if that can do it?

Same battery as original Not been checked for parasitic drain New battery has been registered and any fault codes have been cleared.

Thanks for the advice Dave I'll make sure I have about a quarter of a tank and just lock it up while I'm away. Haha not had the car long, never thought to check if there was a key hole on the boot, I bet you're right and there is! Cheers

Looking for some advice I'm going on Holiday for a month and I'm trying to work out what to do with my 2009 135is. A trickle charger is sadly not an option. The battery is only a month old, will it be ok to sit for a month? Is it ok to disconnect the negative (the car will be outside so needs to be locked, would I need to leave the back seats down to then crawl though to unlock the boot on return) Or is my best option giving it to a friend to take on a 30+ min drive weekly? Appreciate the advice.

Hi All BMW newbie here, picked up this one 2 weeks ago. Manufactured 2009. Got the CIC iDrive in it, N54 engine. I want to replace the radio with a single DIN mechless Bluetooth head unit, I'm pretty clueless on how, can anyone recommend what I need to do or who I could take it to, to get it done? Thanks