Arata

2 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

When you use the interior central lock button does the drivers door lock or stay unlocked ?

With the central locking button from the car inside on the centre console, ALL the door locks and unlocks.

4 minutes ago, NZ00Z3 said:

I had problems getting the infra-red remotes to synch on an E46.  Discovered in the end that there are a set of slightly different instructions for the IR remotes to the normal synch procedure.  Attached is the instructions that worked for me.  Sorry for the poor quality, a copy of a copy of a copy etc

Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf 253.25 kB · 0 downloads

Hi NZ00Z3. I'll try this way but I doubt it as I've tried all the initializing that I can think of...

I'll see if it works...

On 11/4/2019 at 8:28 AM, Kiwi_BMW said:

I can supply a pan gasket and filter for a E39 5HP19 for $52.35 plus shipping Cheers

Hi. Kiwi_BMW.

Thank you for info. I need to know what brand it is. I had looked on tons of website and obviously there are cheap ones and expensive ones. I'm trying to find the ones that is at reasonable price and reasonable quality. Unfortuantely 3 places I've ordered from were all poor quality I've spent between $30 ~ $100 and one of them came in ripped gasket which I was very frustrated. So at the moment I'm after for greater quality. $50 does not quite music to my ears. Again thank you for your info much appreciated but I have to say pass on that one.

Hi everyone. I'm trying to fix the central locking on my e39 530i year 2001.

I had few issues with locking the car since when I bought it from the dealer.

First of all, infrared remote key does not work at all even though after multiple attempt to re-initialize the remote key.

Secondly, the physical key on driver side did not lock or unlock, the key actually did not turn on both ways.

Only the central locking worked when you are inside the car just about to drive and use the central locking button.

At the moment, I'm trying the conversion from infrared remote to radio frequent remote.

I've made 2 new keys (radio frequent 433mhz) and have immobilizer programmed.

Also replaced the antenna amplifier with 433mhz and also did the new wiring towards pin 13 of X332 and fuse 6.

And the most important part of all, the driver side door key issue. I have replaced the new key housing and swapped the key cylinder.

The driver side door now can lock and unlock, but does not lock and unlock the other 3 doors (central locking).

Also the remote key on both infrared (x1) and radio frequent keys (x2) does not initialize with remote central locking.

I can still lock and unlock all the doors from inside the car using the central locking button.

And I scanned the car and here are the fault codes I've got...

2 Fuse or lead for load circuit 2

93 Central-locking drive, driver's door

94 Central-locking drive, passenger's door

1 Fuse or lead for load circuit 1

Code: 0A4100A6 no description!

Code: 0A4100A7 no description!

Code: 0A410091 no description!

Has anyone got any idea what I can do from here?

Any help or advice much appreciated!

Thank you very much in advance.

On 11/5/2019 at 10:57 AM, Eagle said:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auto-trans-filter-kit-zf-24152333915

The gasket works fine. I use a light coat of RTV to keep it attached to the pan when installing so it doesn't move

Thank you Eagle for info. I'll have a look at it. Thanks heaps.

What is going on while I was busy making pizzas at work??? No need to fight over internet please... be nice to each other everyone.

Anyway thank you everyone for all the info. I'm gonna jack up and find what the transmission looks like...

13 minutes ago, Kiwi_BMW said:

Give me a call, O3 4555133, business hours

E39 is a 5HP19 so gasket and filter is less than $170

Why?

On 11/2/2019 at 7:40 AM, Eagle said:

Id get the ZF kit as its cheap enough ( eg $170 NZD shipped from FCP) and wont give you any problems.

Hi Eagle. Thank you very much.

Sorry to be pain but what is FCP?

Also I'm finding a lot of suppliers sell paper-ish style gasket. Is that normal for e39 automatic transmission or is there any silicon/rubber/stainless steel like type of gasket somewhere out there?

Hi guys. I'm just wondering if anyone had done the automatic transmission filter/gasket change before on e39 and what would you recommend to get? I've ordered one (wrong one...) but had to return as my transmission is ZF not GM. And the supplier did not check properly. Any suggestion or advice much appreciated! 

15 hours ago, Allanw said:

The smoke will be from a rocker cover crack. It drips onto the exhaust. The Mrs old E39 looked like it would catch fire occasionally... until @Young Thrash Driver put a new one on, after he adopted it. Common problem.

And like Glenn said - IF you EVER take the head off a M54, get the block threads replaced with time-serts. If it's been hot, you'll probably never get the head bolted back on. If it hasn't, you're still asking for trouble.

It is NOT a simple job, you need the right tools and screwing it up means new block time.

Yes we'll see if that's the case. Fingers crossed but I'll be prepared for the worst case scenario anyway.

16 hours ago, NRJ said:

Replace the CCV valve and all the hoses, including the one that goes from the CCV to the dipstick tube. Replace the intake pipe. Then drive it. That small amount of white build up can be caused by a cracked CCV diaphram  or CCV hose. It's certainly nothing to be alarmed about. Just drive the car after that and enjoy it. Make sure the cooling system is in good condition. Maybe change the coolant. Use genuine BMW coolant if you do.

As with any car just service it properly, and don't just service the engine. There are loads of other things in a car that need changing/replacing.

Coolant changes, brake fluid changes, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cabin air filters, transmission and diff oils brakes etc.

Thank you very much for advice. 

3 hours ago, NRJ said:

Totally agree. Looks normal. Usually caused by short trips which don't allow the engine to get up to operating temp. 

Hi NRJ. So what would you suggest me to do? Just put everything back together and run like hell?

Either way I need to replace CCV hoses and oil separator as some had tiny cracks on them. Also lower air intake boot had the typical hole on elbow-shape hose which I kinda knew (I had to replace on my e46 before as well).

9 hours ago, Eagle said:

I'm not sure why you think it's the headgasket?. If you had just done the valve cover then you may not of sealed it correctly or parts are bad and it has leaked. 

Hi Eagle. That's what I first thought. When I changed the valve cover gasket the engine smoked for about 5 mins then disappeared. Not half an hour though when I had to stop in the middle of the road.

38 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

I would be getting time serts installed on this motor. Have you checked on the tools and equipment you will need to carry out this repair ?

Hi B.M.W Ltd.

Not really sure I'm sorry I'm not a pro mechanic I'm just a dirty chef lol.

But if I find anything that I need or use any tools/equipment I'll list up all with more details.

7 hours ago, zero said:

Also I would question the maintenance on this engine as there appears to be a heck of alot of gunk in the engine.

It looks like it has missed alot of oil changes.

Also, if I decided to change the head gasket, do you know the settings on the torque wrench I should be applying on when I put the new one in?

3 minutes ago, Allanw said:

That's pretty standard for an M54.

The crap solidifies on the coldest part of the rocker cover. The cream is just from condensation.

Your valve cover will have a crack somewhere. Also standard for M54's Buy a new one.

It's not the cleanest of engines inside, but you'll notice the crusty stuff is limited to the cold areas, and the cams etc aren't too bad for the mileage. The change intervals or oil quality is possibly lacking a little. DON"T rely on the service indicator for oil changes either - ours used to go out to about 22K, but I shortened it up to about 15K, which is fine with the volume of oil in there and getting up t temp properly. If you do short trips all the time, reduce the mileage a bit.

You possibly do quite a few short trips and/or your thermostat is a bit dodgy - taking too long to warm up. Don't trust the gauge, use the OBC secret menu - the gauge is a waste of time for telling engine temps - straight up covers from about 75C upwards, which is still very cold for an M54.

See here:

 

Thank you very much Allanw. 

Yes I've ordered the valve cover itself already as I have noticed several small places chipped off and it is very brittle on edges where gasket sets in. 

Will probably looking at to change all the coolant thermostat and hoses, as well as CCV hoses. Will be posting several photos once I've taken them out. Thank you for your help.

7 hours ago, zero said:

Also I would question the maintenance on this engine as there appears to be a heck of alot of gunk in the engine.

It looks like it has missed alot of oil changes.

Hi Zero. Thank you very much for reply and suggestions.

Yes I'm gonna start disassemble most of the parts to see what I need to replace. I'll post several photos once I've done.

The story is I bought this off auction very cheap and the dealer said they had no understanding of how the last owners have treated this car. When I changed the oil about 3 weeks ago or so it was way darker than black... Poor car...

Hi guys. I was driving my e39 530i on the other day and noticed the smell of the engine oil burning and shortly after 5 mins or so the smoke slowing started appearing from the engine and the air vent. Had to get my car towed and checked the engine and found that the typical creamy brown coloured engine oil appeared on the oil cap and valve cover (not a lot just on the top where the oil cap is) and suspected that the head gasket is blown... OMG.

So I have decided to replace a new one. But apart from the head gasket is there any other parts I should be replacing since I'm going to take out a lot of parts. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

By the way, before this smoking, I had replaced the valve cover gasket as there were some oil leak from the coil/spark plug which is the closest to the windscreen side. I had some little smoke came out for less than 30 seconds then it was gone and did not appear. However I only turned the engine on and was not actually test driving after the valve cover gasket replacement.

The car has done over 249,000km already.

Thank you very much in advance team!!!

On 10/19/2019 at 10:54 PM, Olaf said:

Welcome, Arata!  e39 and e46?  Wow, you got the big love ?  great cars both.

Thank you Olaf. Still have a lot to work on both of them especially e39 with the remote key issue which I'll find out tomorrow if the conversion will be successful or not... hopefully it works.

12 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Welcome Arata, loving the DIY on the side of the road!

 

Thank you M3AN. Yeah at the moment I've got no choice lol but will be moving house very shortly so I'll have a proper garage space to do full work on them without getting interrupted by dodgy people or some random asian tourists... I hated it but already used to it now.

Hi team! Thank you very much for letting me join this wonderful group.

Cars I've got are:

320i E46 M54B22 Sedan/Saloon 2000

No issues with this one except engine light comes on and off but no known mechanical issues.

In the process of fitting new CCV hoses and also changing to a new engine oil level sensor.

530i E39 M54B30 Sedan/Saloon 2001

This one had a lot of issues but getting things done.

One big thing I'm currently doing is the conversion of the remote key. changing from the infrared remote control to the radio frequent remote control. I had a post to the other page following someone's DIY on e46 one which I'm trying to do on my e39.

Nice to meet you all BMW lovers!

On 10/17/2019 at 8:07 AM, NZ00Z3 said:

Looks like its pin 13 on connector X332

Pin out https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/YiZx8Vi

Wiring diagram https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/dSjHwgZ

Hey you are legend! Thanks heaps! I was having nightmares trying to find the diagram everywhere...

I'll try connect the wiring on my days off next and see what happens...

I'll post up all the things I've done if it's successful... fingers crossed...

Hi guys I'm trying to do this method with my e39 530i Sedan. So far I've installed the new amplifier (433mhz) and have already 2 new keys and transponders programmed (also 433mhz 3 button diamond-shaped). I'm just up to do the connection of the wiring from the amplifier and towards the GM3 but now I'm stuck with which wire to connect...

Anyone have any idea???

Story of my car regarding with the key...

Driver door physical key lock does not work... (in the progress of getting a new cylinder as it is different set up mechanism compared to e46)

Remote key (infrared remote-control) does not work. But the central locking from inside the car (from the central locking button of the car) works and all the door lock and unlock.

I've had enough look out on the internet with the mirror but mirror won't change anything...

Obviously have tried to reprogram the key... nothing.

7 minutes ago, Gaz said:

If both your e39 and e46 are the same shape then yes, you can pair the remote key from your e46 to work on e39

Yes they are exactly the same infrared one so I’ll try get diamond-shaped keys with radio frequency I just need to check where the modules are that states the types of frequencies. Thank you for your help much appreciated.

1 hour ago, Gaz said:

If they are both the same key then you can sync the remote function with your one good key, this will rule out key/receiver issues. There should be no need to replace the mirror on your e46 as you clearly have one dead key(probably battery failed) and one good key. Of course you can swap it out if you so choose but it's not necessary 

Would it be the same for E39 as well?

On 1/15/2009 at 7:32 PM, central3 said:

Closure on the central locking system at last. I brought a mirror off a US M3 convertible via Ebay. Plugged it in and it worked a treat. Spent a lot of time chasing sedan mirrors but the US sedans use the radio antenna system not the mirror as a receiver.

Hey man. When you got the mirror from eBay how do you know the mirror is radio antenna system not infrared? I’ve looked through as well but can’t tell the difference...