Harper

44 minutes ago, m325i said:

Hey bro. 
Please let me know where my plate is displayed in the thread. 
(I’d just rather a small amount of anonymity/deniability) 

You obviously made your bed a decade or two ago 😆 

Last photo on page 5

They're also really not very expensive just to buy new from memory. That's what I did. and then painted the door handles with GM8573, it's almost a perfect match for the OEM colour. 

Picture below of my painted door trims next to a brand new dash piece from BMW.

Maybe I'm crazy but I don't think this is that overpriced. 

NZ new, looks to be in great condition, <100K km, factory manual. It's at least worth low teens no? Seems like a useable modern classic. 

2 hours ago, innoxious said:

Did you guys remove the CDV and attach the line where the CDV was, or did you replace the CDV with an aftermarket valve? e.g. https://burgertuning.com/products/bms-cdv-modified-bmw-clutch-valve

TIA

Just pull out the CDV and attach the hose back together, they have the same fittings. Zero reason to spend money to put something there.

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

At least you identified the problem, that's a positive. Make sure you remove the clutch delay valve when you're in there, if you haven't already.

Yeah in some ways I'm relieved its a simple fix. 

I already removed the CDV while it's been on jackstands for the last couple months. The short drive I did take it on the other day it drove better without it even with the dying slave cylinder. It's a must if you've got a manual 130i imo. 

I removed the slave cylinder last night, as I pulled it out and the piston extended it squirted fluid everywhere and is completely goosed. So that explains why I was having so much trouble bleeding it. 

Off to spend $250 on a new slave cylinder and clutch line yippee.

3 hours ago, Matt said:

The workshop manual says to remove the slave cylinder and completely depress the piston for bleeding. There's a special BMW tool to keep it depressed but it should be easy enough to do a makeshift version

This was going to be my next attempt. Gives me hope, thanks.

I think I was right in that the loom was pinched somewhere or something. I couldn't find any evidence where it would have been but after removing the center console and checking all the wiring the codes cleared fine. Put the center console back in place and no issues.

Now I'm struggling to bleed the clutch, I wasn't prepared for how much of a bitch it is. If anyone has any tips it would be much appreciated. I think I'm going to have to remove the slave and manually depress it by hand to bleed. Pedaling/pressure bleeding doesn't seem to help, the pedal is still almost at the floor.

1 hour ago, Driftit said:

How are you seeing those codes? INPA may show more detail. 

INPA. Screenshots of the codes below.

I swapped over the seatbelt buckles from left to right and the errors remained the same so that suggests it's upstream of the buckle. I'll pull the centre console out again tomorrow and have a look for anything not right there.

Having trouble clearing a couple of airbag codes causing an airbag light on my 130i project. Has been on jackstands for the last couple months while I've been working on it, and the codes weren't there before. The battery did die once in that time, I charged it up with a ctek charger and it starts the car no problem now.

Getting two codes in INPA 93BA (seatbelt contact driver) and 93B0 (curtain airbag on the left). I've checked the seat connectors and everything seems to be good but still can't clear the codes. I'm at a bit of a loss for what could cause them other than the battery which following a charge seems to be working okay. Any other suggestions for things to check? The only other thing I can think is the wiring to the airbag module under the center console got pinched while I was putting the center console back in place but that feels like a reach. 

1 hour ago, Cement said:

Hah that's rad, can you recall the type of mounting tape it was?

I'm about to paint my wood trim also, guess you sold the black cube trims@Harper

I think it's this stuff https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/p/d/b40072022/  12mm width but not 100% sure, it's been in my garage forever. I use it all the time. This is what most of the E46 forums recommend using though: https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/p/d/b40069430/

Yep sorry trims sold on trademe for $550 a while back.

I used some double sided 3m tape as a temporary fix, it was the right width for the felt and rubber and fit nicely. I expected it to last 5 minutes and figured I'd look into some contact adhesive or weatherstripping glue like what the US guys use when it failed. Haven't touched it in 3 years and it's still holding.  

2 hours ago, thorburn said:

Weitz has just listed one 

I spoke too soon, first one in a long time

They almost never get parted these days, haven't seen one get parted for at least a year or two. Your best bet is maybe the one that was flood damaged and sold through turners, not sure where that ended up.

17 hours ago, JohnM575 said:

Timely thread - I picked up this LCI Interlagos Blue E90 M3 last week. I specifically wanted a sedan over the coupe - the E46 isn't going anywhere, I wanted four doors for the practicality, and I actually prefer the look of the sedan over the coupe for the E9X generation.

I was umming and ahing back and forth deciding if I wanted to buy this one. Had just messaged the seller to come check it out the day you bought it I believe, I've been looking for a 4 door as well and that colour is something else...

Looks ace man

BM134 is the OEM fabric for the headliner, which comes foam backed. The same fabric is on the A/B/C pillars but without the foam backing which is BM3109 if you use the foam backed fabric on the pillars its too thick and looks wrong.

It's a bit of a bitch to get to NZ though, have to ship it in from the states I believe. This place has it: https://www.cartopsplus.com/Automotive/Headliner/BMW-Cloth-Headlining just select 134 and 3109 from the drop down menu. I emailed them if they had better options for shipping price and they came back with a pretty good quote it was around 100USD to ship 2 meters of 134. I got distracted with other projects and never ordered though. 

https://lemansautofabrics.co.nz/index.html This wellington place has it on their website but last I checked he didn't have any in stock and said I'd have to try ship it in from overseas. 

Almost certainly causing the sensor to read wrong and throwing errors. Usually more common on cars that get rusty there.

Haven't done the fix myself but if you google E46 ABS ring replacement there are loads of threads that might be helpful. 

I find schmiedmann have the best pricing, but a little slower and sometimes their shipping prices aren't great. So usually I do a bulk order of parts every so often and get the most out of the shipping cost.

RealOEM is the best way to get the part numbers for any bits you want, then you can just search for the part number and see who has it for the best price. 

You could try your luck just swapping the head gasket out. Just because the cars overheated and the head gasket has failed, doesn't necessarily mean the engine needs to be replaced.

245/40 if you have the 8.5" rear

27 minutes ago, Vass said:

So the dude manual converted it and is now parting it out less than a year later? Wonder what's happened there

I think quite a lot of people think they can do a manual conversion and realise they have bitten off more than they can chew when they get to the finishing details. Coding, wiring etc. Just picked up a 130i in the same situation that I'm going through the process of finishing the coding, and tidying it up. I wonder if that's what happened with this car.

OCDetailing, @CSET

That M3 is pretty sad too. ~100K km, 2005, factory manual. Nice spec too. Very nice car. Definitely going to be some interest in it even if it's just for parts.

On 2/2/2023 at 8:56 PM, Vass said:

Fair enough. I might be wrong, but my money would still be on the gearbox being swapped rather than just the cluster for some weird reason. The cluster is usually a dead giveaway of a manual swap that's almost always overlooked.

VIN decoders are notoriously unreliable when it comes to transmission type. Some would no doubt also classify an SMG as being manual. Which it technically is. But really isn't.

I would bet on the opposite. Clusters fail, the displays get dead pixels, the stalks on them are delicate and break, the needles fade and start to look like trash etc. SMG clusters are usually cheaper and more available, probably just had one swapped in.

The vin decoders are usually accurate for E46 M3 unlike the non-m with regards to what trans because SMG doesn't show up as manual or automatic, it shows up as option "S793 Sequential Gearbox M Drivelogic" and they don't usually get specific options wrong. 

This is almost certainly a factory manual unless the vins wrong. 

3 hours ago, Vass said:

Also, and I don't know if it's news to you or not, but it's not a factory manual.

The usual vin decoders suggest it is a factory manual, not optioned with S793. Just looks like the cluster has been swapped out for an SMG one at some point.