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Harper last won the day on February 6

Harper had the most liked content!

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About Harper

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    2nd Gear

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  • Car
    E46 M3
  • Car 2
    E46 Compact
  • Car 3
    E87 130i (Sold)

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  1. Harper

    Quick rant thread.

    Still much cheaper to get from schmiedmann. 167usd shipped from ECS, 98usd shipped from Schmiedmann. They are almost always by far the cheapest for genuine parts like this in my experience.
  2. Harper

    Quick rant thread.

    https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/6216-new?product=25-11-7-896-886 97.67USD shipped from schmiedmann
  3. My recent FCP and spareto orders have arrived to my door inside a week, pretty impressive.
  4. Roland actually has a complete 6 speed kit. You might be able to swap the rear half of your auto driveshaft onto this and you're good to go. I'd go this route personally. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/7438401319514971/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A4aec2e64-4072-4f26-b9f5-e2f331e6f959
  5. The cross member is cheap to buy brand new as well. https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e61382-new?product=22-31-1-096-811 Just the have to find a 330d driveshaft
  6. 330D uses it's own manual gearbox/driveshaft etc which might be a bit harder to find. Not sure they are interchangeable with a normal 330 manual box. Assuming you can find the parts for a 330d, manual swap probably costs 3.5-4k if you do the work yourself.
  7. The engines back out sooner than I had hoped.. Fortunately with the front end already off it took <2 hours to get it out. Love how easy the E46 is. Split the gearbox in search of the leak from the bellhousing and as suspected it was the input shaft seal. I replaced it while the box was out the first time since it was weeping but it was leaking a lot of fluid now and the seal wasn't happy. Couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I tried my luck and tapped it in a bit further. No luck. Had to bite the bullet and remove it and get another one ordered. $60 seal, ouch. I could see the slightest imperfection on the lip of the seal once it was out but have a hard time imagining that was causing the drip, hopefully the next one has no issue otherwise I'm out of ideas. Took a bunch of photos but lost them somehow so here it is removed. . In the meantime I've reassembled the rear end. subframe and arms in with all new bushings, ball joints, and bearings, 330 diff, 330 rear brakes, new brake lines all round. 330 cluster rings and manual cluster panel panel added. Technically since this is a coupe it should probably have the grey dial faces but I actually prefer the look of the black ones. The smoke tester arrived, it works good. No complaints except for the smell of the smoke, and it gets everywhere, on your clothes hair, skin etc. I tested with the motor removed and just plugged the purge valve and sucking jet pump but it revealed absolutely zero vacuum leaks. The thing is air tight. Pretty much only leaves a brake booster vacuum leak, bad MAF sensor, or bad O2 sensors, as my rough idle issue. I will have a look at the fuel trims once the motor is back in the car and see what the next step is. Tempted to just order a MAF regardless since it's nice to just rule it out and have a fresh one, I already have O2 sensors on order but they're not due until the end of march.
  8. Yep cleared all adaptations but I think the idle is too rough to just be the DME relearning fuel trims especially since it stalls and dies after a few minutes. I had codes for bank 1 and 2 lean condition (also suggests vacuum leak) but cleared them and they haven't come back yet. I checked the ICV when I had the manifold off and it's clacking like it should so I think that's alright. I ordered the cheapest AutoLine Pro that I can hook up to my compressor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHRBKTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1). Has good reviews and funnily enough their marketing video is on an E46. I'll report back whether it's any good.
  9. A weekend of set backs sadly, to be expected with a big project like this I suppose. Plumbed up the cooling system with all new parts in the cooling stack With the cooling system and belts on I could run the engine for more than a minute or two at a time. Unfortunately became obvious when running the engine a bit longer that it had a rough idle. Bounces between 600-1200rpm and eventually dies. Pulled the intake manifold off in search of a vacuum leak. Pretty much everything on the manifold is brand new and I couldn't find any obvious leaks so reassembled carefully but no change. I've ordered a smoke tester but that's a couple weeks away. Could be a bad MAF but that was working before the swap so a vacuum leak seems more likely. The more disheartening discovery is an MTF drip from the bellhousing on the gearbox. Can only really be coming from the input shaft seal so the gearbox is going to have to come out. The front end is still all disassembled so I think I'd rather just pull the engine and trans out together rather than pull the gearbox underneath the car which is never fun.
  10. Harper

    E46 330i Touring

    I think white might be the E46's best colour. Looks ace
  11. Nothing more exciting than a first start up. Everything cleaned up like new, really helps starting with a nice original chassis that hasn't been messed with before. This car had all it's original paint markings on the bolts.
  12. Big progress this weekend. First start up. Took today off so that I could have a 4 day weekend this week and get stuck into the compact. Pulled the N42 out. Cleaned up the engine bay a bit Few things fitted while the engine was out. CMP solid steering coupler, clutch hard line, smaller heater valve from the 330. Had to adapt the EVAP purge line from the larger OD pipe on the compact to the smaller OD pipe from the M54. Made a fitting that looks pretty factory and just clips into the original connector. Put in a third pedal. I'm super picky with wiring and hate when it's not tidy so a lot of time was spent making sure everything looked pretty original when wiring in the clutch switch. Power and ground from the brake pedal and the DME wire runs under the dash with the factory loom. I omitted the EWS wire and opted instead to just code out the need to press the clutch to start, it's not needed and tidier. When swapping from a N42 you have to wire in the AC compressor as well since it's part of the engine harness on the N42 and part of the chassis harness on M54 cars. Instead, since I'm deleting SAP which is in the same position as the AC compressor wiring, I just cut and changed the SAP connector to the correct one for the AC. The SAP wiring goes through a relay behind the glovebox so I bypassed it and moved the SAP pin at the DME to the chassis connector for the AC. No new wires needed, a much better solution than running a new harness all the way across the car IMO. My reverse switch was wiring in line with the factory harness while I had the engine out so the only additional wire running into the ECU box is the clutch switch wire, everything else utilizes the factory wiring. New clutch and flywheel on. Gearbox with all detents replaced, new guide tube, pivot pin etc. Started on the first crank. Snapchat-1404950484_1.mp4 Still lots to do. Waiting on some parts to finish rebuilding the rear end. Cooling, AC system, front end etc. Can't wait to drive it.
  13. Dropped the rear subframe to replace all the bushings and ball joints and swap to the 330 diff. I decided to paint the diff as well since it looked pretty brown and scabby. Came up very nice. I also installed the front bilsteins and 330 front brakes.
  14. The vin decoders are pretty intermittent, sometimes they stop working for weeks and then start working again.
  15. Pretty sure they are M3 specific so quite hard to find. MirrorJohn used to sell them but looks like they are out of stock. Might be worth sending him an email to see if he's getting any more. https://www.mirrorjohn.com/BMW_M3_e46_M5_e39_Alarm_LED_Cover.php
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