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HalfJobHarry

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Posts posted by HalfJobHarry

  1. Posted · Report reply

    On 12/22/2021 at 11:49 AM, Herbmiester said:

    To be fair they were not that familiar with the N54 engine and I know Wellington BMW failed to find a similar issue in a friends 135i. As you said its not foolproof.

     

    I'm not sure the BMW dealer is the gold standard to compare against ....I dunno.... i read stuff like "pin holes in intercoolers" but miss cracked charge pipe.... it's all very sus. I may be old fashioned, but I think if you're paying a professional for a job, if they are not comfortable with the process they should say so, or you should expect sensible and methodical diagnostics to be carried out :(

    • Like 1

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/28/2021 at 4:43 PM, smiddy said:

    Downloaded and flashed my MHD 1+ tuned E91 with XHPs newly released dragy mode for 6hp transmissions, partnered with a refresh of stage 2 XHP trans tune.

    Have had couple of days to drive and settle everything in, just back now after a few spirited runs.

    Wow! So much more response in sport/ manual mode and stock smooth like in D.

    2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th shifts at around 5500 rpms are so fast and seamless, almost seems like one continuous ratio!

    Way way more pull, feels like this is what was missing at this power level, no dips at all, very smooth up and down in manual and sports mode.

    Any one else had a look?

    No but I'll have a look. I had a look a couple of months back and didn't see any new flashes. I've been very pleased with the stage 3 flash, if there is a little something extra to be had then bring it on :D 

  3. Posted · Edited by HalfJobHarry · Report reply

    On 11/22/2021 at 8:52 AM, Herbmiester said:

    Crack was tiny, when I took the pipe off I couldn't see it, pin holes were obvious and smoke came out of them, saw that myself. Replaced charge pipe problem fixed, there was no visible leak from the CP.

    Smoke test needs to be pressurized...or you have to pressurize your intake tract. I cooked up something following some DIYs elsewhere two plastic caps that go over my inlet pipes. One of them has a connection to my air compressor. I compress up the entire intake tract to about 16 psi (the seal around the caps themselves gives up at that point. You can see it working as the 'bellows' on the inlet pipes expand out . that said it's not fool proof as you might be running more than 16psi (but not stock! 8psi).  

    Very poor a garage missed a clear and common boost leak...cracked charge pipe is one of the most , if not the most common N54 boost leaks. 

    • Like 1

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/6/2021 at 6:30 PM, ciderbeard said:

    Interested in this thread, will be needing a mechanic for servicing my 130i. 

    Couple Questions:

    Dealers not worth the extra cost?

    Am I right that current best options are BM Workshop Grey Lynn or Burgers Motor Works?

     

    I can recommend BM Workshop Botany based on recent experiences over the last few weeks. they completed a valve stem seal replacement and a few other bits on my 120i without drama or fuss. They have attention to detail and picked out a number of things on both cars that I hope they would! 

    Bellars motorworks over on the Shore are also another option if you are that way, had a walnut blast there and a look and chat with them, soild operation. 

    Dealers are 100% not worth the extra cost, on some things like routine servicing their pricing is comparable to the indy's , but other things they are just having a laugh, water pump replacements, injectors etc. The quotes they will give you will make you wince.  

    • Like 1

  7. Posted · Edited by HalfJobHarry · Report reply

    I finally bit the bullet after many years of dedication to INPA and ISTA. Sure...still need the BMW tools for full up programming, but mucking around with those tools for simple day to day stuff like battery changes, injector coding etc was driving me spare.

    I'm in the Eastern Auckland suburbs so if anybody wants any odd coding / battery change / injectors or anything else ProTool can do..let me know https://www.bimmergeeks.net/protool

    I can try to come along to to the monthly meetup if there is 'demand'. 

    P.S. I'm not looking to charge but small donations are always appreciated :D

    Another edit: I have a D-CAN cable that I've used on the bulk of E series without issue. ProTool says this setup should be good for "E90, E60, E70, E88, F, G". 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/22/2021 at 8:49 AM, SmackJackTheCrackerMan said:

    For anyone thinking of installing catless Downpipes, here’s a fairly good guide. 
    https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104333&fbclid=IwAR0Ui5TMQqyQQ3t4mEjUFL3kJTCQS_2Bme1JFMHf2jH_XYCyPoTQb6IUv4M

    Mine just arrived, so weather permitting I’ll be installing (or at least trying too) this weekend. 
    Anybody in Wellington/Kapiti who would like to offer a hand would be much appreciated 👍🏼👌🏼🤔😂 there will be some nice craft ale in it for you 🍺 🍻 

    7709A534-4BCC-4EF5-A960-7249CB1523B0.jpeg

    Do follow up on how it goes and if the fit is good, where you got your pipes. I've read stories of needing additional spacers and what not. I'm waiting until I need to drop the subframe (maybe sometime later or early next year) to hit the sump gasket (and probably do a water pump) 

  10. Posted · Edited by HalfJobHarry · Report reply

    Follow up on this. Running the new IC for a little while now. Logs show very steady intake temperatures with next to no appreciable rise on anything but the hardest and longest pulls. The very large temperature spikes with the stock IC are gone. Also WGDC is down implying that if there is any pressure drop due to the larger IC , it's made up for by the increased charge density resulting in the turbos needing to work less hard anyway. Very pleased and would recommend. 

    No noticeable increase in lag and bottom end response is better...

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Does anybody know of a supplier for E85 fuel? Since Gull discontinued their Pro Force stuff post Covid I have not sought to find a replacement. 

    I only need a 25 to 40% mix but chucking the appropriate amount of E85 into a RON 98 tank did the job...

     

  15. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/25/2021 at 3:18 PM, smiddy said:

    My car took about 3 days to wake up to the new found volume and flows.

    Off boost part throttle response marked improvement, on spooling big gains in torque delivery, ( bum dyno) in stock turbo band range.

    Can totally feel that part throttle torque increase, under 2.5k .... can't wait to get some proper logs. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, monkeygod11 said:

    :)

    I want JB4 just for this haha

    Good to hear you have the tune backed up and have a new IC coming. My initial testing with the 5" from HZ Racing store (ali express) has been very positive, I was worried about a larger pressure drop than stock ...so far logs are showing the opposite...that it's less restrictive. Also no appreciable increase in lag. 

    IMHO the JB4 is an essential component in any tuning effort, sure you can tune the flash itself...and probably should...but why would you not want selectable levels of boost along with great logging and safety features. The ECU alone just isn't setup to protect from some of the situations we can get our engines into with the changes we are making. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/19/2021 at 11:10 PM, Ninjaspartan said:

    Hot intake temps will absolutely pull timing. This is based on the Tune.

    Here are the stock timing reductions based on Temp for the 335is (IJEOS) DME verson. I would imagine its the same as the 335i. 
    So above 50c its pulling 5.5 to 8 degrees. 

    image.png.6fc6e61576556384df4e348035c8c36b.png



    Also as John mentioned the two throttle readings are a bit odd. Generally you have throttle postion IE the postion of pedal, and the postion of the actual throttle body. So you have a requested throtle and actual throttle in a sense. 

    As for getting a larger intercooler, yup that is definately something to look at. Especially since you take it to the track. 

     

     

     

    That table is mapped to load not temperature so you can't read the timing correction off directly against temperature...some logic in the programming will enter into that table based on the load an RPM and then apply the timing correction it finds there...but the point is accurate...you'll get timing pulls at high IATs...

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/10/2021 at 1:45 PM, monkeygod11 said:

    Still on the stock intercooler. 

    Yea that's true at the time I wasn't thinking of track days but now I'm doing them I should probably go back and see if the tune should be changed. Will ask them about the tune file.

    Have got hold of a Bluetooth obd dongle thing and will use it this Saturday to show live data and try and get some logs to hopefully point me in the right direction of where to upgrade first. 

    What sort of temps should I start worrying about? 

    Thanks for your advice so far!

    Firstly....you can always (to my knowledge) use the MHD Flasher to backup whatever flash file you have in your DME....you don't want a trip to the dealer (if you'd take it there) or somewhere else to 'helpfully' wipe your custom tune. You do not need to have an MHD licence or be running an MHD flash to use the backup feature in the app. It's pretty much instant too (you just need the D-CAN cable plus an OTG adapter for the phone). 

    Secondly I'm a bit saddened to hear of a custom tune and tracking on the STOCK inter-cooler. It's pants for aggressive street use...it's going to be terrible for track. However without the data it's not possible to know for sure where the stuttering is coming from. 

    I strongly recommend a JB4 too, you'll get much safer boost control and the logging is excellent. (It's worth it for the logging alone IMHO). You also get an awesome flash of the blinkers in the cluster when oil is upto temp for full boost. 

    Logs , logs and more logs are the key here and it will become apparent where your issue is in that case. 

    I completed an N54 rebuild about six months ago and am still getting to grips with the platform over the last 10 months or so but have a reasonable amount of hands on experience at this point.   

     

    Unrelated and possibly unhelpful rant below -

    Finally, what's this "Buy an M3" advice for occasional track use? That's like saying these days to buy a collectible Gibson guitar and trash the hotel room with it. Any of the N54 or N55s will destroy the non-turbo M cars and cost you a fraction of the money ..even in the long term. The E46 M cars need their chassis all bonding back together and what not at this age too...the list goes on...

    - Rant off 

     

  19. Posted · Report reply

    So finally got things sorted and boost leak tested. Not convinced I managed to pressurize things up to 10 psi ...but couldn't hear anything leaking. 

    Initial intercooler tests are not complete as had no opportunity to do any WOT pulls, however initial impressions are possibly a more responsive mid range. Also just cruising around IAT stays much more around ambient ...with the stock IC things used to creep up (to a point) even when not doing pulls. 

    Initial look at the logs while hitting only a max of 8 psi (will have to wait for some max boost opportunities) showed that the WGDC was no higher than with stock. Also I noticed , but don't have enough data to be conclusive, that the WGDC seems lower when spooling the turbos in response to a quick demand for power. Nowhere near enough data yet, but if that is the case then it would point to the new IC having less pressure drop across it than the stock IC (which one hopes to be the case but you never know!). 

    Will report back with more info when I have it. The real test will only be for those WOT pulls. 

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, qube said:

    Yep, and from my research, if I remove the oil pressure sensor to connect the gauge in it's place, then the readings wont be accurate so Ive seen someone say they built a Y adapter to plug both the sensor and the gauge in at the same time. 

    I would look at the sensor outputs *directly* in INPA or other tool. This will be informative to determine if the sensor is A) reading incorrectly , implausable readings like 0 psi or 1000 psi etc etc   b) not reading at all, no value , c) static value . 30 psi when the engine is off for example . 

    My pressure values are examples.

    It would be very useful to understand the behavior.

    As has been mentioned, it's unlikely you have a seriously low oil pressure situation at all times or you'd likely have had a catastrophic failure by now. I'm wondering if the sensor is somehow biased and consistently returning a wrong reading. The above checks would tell you that. 

       

    • Like 2

  21. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, jon dee said:

     Yah... basically, the clip sits down in the groove until the lugs on the hose end fittings get under as you push the parts together. Then the clip is pressed up out of the groove until the lug gets far enough in, and then it snaps back down into the groove and the parts are locked together. So if the clip is down in the groove on both sides you are good to go :)

    Cheers...

    Gotcha! Yeah the clips are seated on both sides and nothing seems to be moving at all! Will share my boost leak testing results when I'm done.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, qube said:

    Could it be this? Oil pressure control actuator (pn 11417584991)

    According to Realoem it might be a blank plug on the N52 but it might actually have it due to design changes?

    https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/oil-pressure-on-n52.955944/page-6

     

    Yes it could be all of those things. Two avenues for diagnostics here (disclaimer...I trained as a youth as an auto diagnostician ...but never worked professionally, but following logical fault trees etc is my strength!). 

    A: The sensor is reading wrong and causing codes. Verify the output with something like INPA and ensure the pressure reading is feasible. As the article I linked mentioned..sometimes the pressure reading from the software is a factor off. This would be an Instrumentation fault. 

    B: You have an actual oil pressure problem. Are you hearing any noises, rattles, is the warning tripping only at certain times? low revs, cold starts etc etc? There are a number of issues from the actuator (yes you have to be very specific to check against your VIN to be sure and even then it's not 100% ... my 120i being Japanese spec has a unusual ECU and engine variant that is not reflected in RealOEM. 

    Also from the thread you posted, beware of any kind of metallic 'bag of spanners' 'chain saw' type rattling immediately on startup that quickly quiets down...this is the timing chain. Although I am not aware of the N52 specifically having any timing chain issues (like bad tensioners from the factory etc)...but there is a fair amount of talk about chain guides wearing out / getting chewed up out there. 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Success I think! Removed the 2nd nuts....and greased the intercooler fittings and pipe fittings...I'm astonished by the amount of force needed (by hand) to press the connections in firmly. I had some expectation that they would just pop nicely into place....there clearly is a lot of resistance from the o-ring and the metal on metal...even with a decent application of grease. 

    I'm not 100% satisfied they are fully seated but but c-clips did seem to snap in and engage with something. A good tug on the fittings and they don't seem to budge. 

    Do these look fully engaged? 

    I'm going to try and lash together a boost leak testing setup as I really don't want to button everything back up and have something pop off the first time I hit full boost. 

    pipe002.png

    pipe001.png

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