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HalfJobHarry

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HalfJobHarry last won the day on August 14 2020

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About HalfJobHarry

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    2nd Gear

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  • Name
    Peter J
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    120i
  • Car 2
    120i E87
  • Car 3
    135i E82

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  1. A trailer would work, it could lay on its side. it's about 150 - 200 kg
  2. Yes. Auckland Eastern Suburbs. PM me. You'd need a Ute/Pickup or similar and will be a pig to lift...
  3. Looking to get a run done to validate some recent stuff...anybody know / recommend a dyno place central or east/south Auckland. One over in Avondale looks good but would rather avoid a trek out there if I don't have to
  4. Does anybody know of a supplier for E85 fuel? Since Gull discontinued their Pro Force stuff post Covid I have not sought to find a replacement. I only need a 25 to 40% mix but chucking the appropriate amount of E85 into a RON 98 tank did the job...
  5. Can totally feel that part throttle torque increase, under 2.5k .... can't wait to get some proper logs.
  6. Good to hear you have the tune backed up and have a new IC coming. My initial testing with the 5" from HZ Racing store (ali express) has been very positive, I was worried about a larger pressure drop than stock ...so far logs are showing the opposite...that it's less restrictive. Also no appreciable increase in lag. IMHO the JB4 is an essential component in any tuning effort, sure you can tune the flash itself...and probably should...but why would you not want selectable levels of boost along with great logging and safety features. The ECU alone just isn't setup to protect from some of the situations we can get our engines into with the changes we are making.
  7. That table is mapped to load not temperature so you can't read the timing correction off directly against temperature...some logic in the programming will enter into that table based on the load an RPM and then apply the timing correction it finds there...but the point is accurate...you'll get timing pulls at high IATs...
  8. Firstly....you can always (to my knowledge) use the MHD Flasher to backup whatever flash file you have in your DME....you don't want a trip to the dealer (if you'd take it there) or somewhere else to 'helpfully' wipe your custom tune. You do not need to have an MHD licence or be running an MHD flash to use the backup feature in the app. It's pretty much instant too (you just need the D-CAN cable plus an OTG adapter for the phone). Secondly I'm a bit saddened to hear of a custom tune and tracking on the STOCK inter-cooler. It's pants for aggressive street use...it's going to be terrible for track. However without the data it's not possible to know for sure where the stuttering is coming from. I strongly recommend a JB4 too, you'll get much safer boost control and the logging is excellent. (It's worth it for the logging alone IMHO). You also get an awesome flash of the blinkers in the cluster when oil is upto temp for full boost. Logs , logs and more logs are the key here and it will become apparent where your issue is in that case. I completed an N54 rebuild about six months ago and am still getting to grips with the platform over the last 10 months or so but have a reasonable amount of hands on experience at this point. Unrelated and possibly unhelpful rant below - Finally, what's this "Buy an M3" advice for occasional track use? That's like saying these days to buy a collectible Gibson guitar and trash the hotel room with it. Any of the N54 or N55s will destroy the non-turbo M cars and cost you a fraction of the money ..even in the long term. The E46 M cars need their chassis all bonding back together and what not at this age too...the list goes on... - Rant off
  9. So finally got things sorted and boost leak tested. Not convinced I managed to pressurize things up to 10 psi ...but couldn't hear anything leaking. Initial intercooler tests are not complete as had no opportunity to do any WOT pulls, however initial impressions are possibly a more responsive mid range. Also just cruising around IAT stays much more around ambient ...with the stock IC things used to creep up (to a point) even when not doing pulls. Initial look at the logs while hitting only a max of 8 psi (will have to wait for some max boost opportunities) showed that the WGDC was no higher than with stock. Also I noticed , but don't have enough data to be conclusive, that the WGDC seems lower when spooling the turbos in response to a quick demand for power. Nowhere near enough data yet, but if that is the case then it would point to the new IC having less pressure drop across it than the stock IC (which one hopes to be the case but you never know!). Will report back with more info when I have it. The real test will only be for those WOT pulls.
  10. I would look at the sensor outputs *directly* in INPA or other tool. This will be informative to determine if the sensor is A) reading incorrectly , implausable readings like 0 psi or 1000 psi etc etc b) not reading at all, no value , c) static value . 30 psi when the engine is off for example . My pressure values are examples. It would be very useful to understand the behavior. As has been mentioned, it's unlikely you have a seriously low oil pressure situation at all times or you'd likely have had a catastrophic failure by now. I'm wondering if the sensor is somehow biased and consistently returning a wrong reading. The above checks would tell you that.
  11. Gotcha! Yeah the clips are seated on both sides and nothing seems to be moving at all! Will share my boost leak testing results when I'm done.
  12. Yes it could be all of those things. Two avenues for diagnostics here (disclaimer...I trained as a youth as an auto diagnostician ...but never worked professionally, but following logical fault trees etc is my strength!). A: The sensor is reading wrong and causing codes. Verify the output with something like INPA and ensure the pressure reading is feasible. As the article I linked mentioned..sometimes the pressure reading from the software is a factor off. This would be an Instrumentation fault. B: You have an actual oil pressure problem. Are you hearing any noises, rattles, is the warning tripping only at certain times? low revs, cold starts etc etc? There are a number of issues from the actuator (yes you have to be very specific to check against your VIN to be sure and even then it's not 100% ... my 120i being Japanese spec has a unusual ECU and engine variant that is not reflected in RealOEM. Also from the thread you posted, beware of any kind of metallic 'bag of spanners' 'chain saw' type rattling immediately on startup that quickly quiets down...this is the timing chain. Although I am not aware of the N52 specifically having any timing chain issues (like bad tensioners from the factory etc)...but there is a fair amount of talk about chain guides wearing out / getting chewed up out there.
  13. Ah....okay that's a bit more of a worry then. I've used this guys resources before with great success so at least for the stuff I used he knows what he's talking about, takes a look at some of these codes in depth here. https://bimmerprofs.com/oil-pressure-n-series-engines/
  14. I'd bet on a bad oil pressure sensor. Replace.
  15. Success I think! Removed the 2nd nuts....and greased the intercooler fittings and pipe fittings...I'm astonished by the amount of force needed (by hand) to press the connections in firmly. I had some expectation that they would just pop nicely into place....there clearly is a lot of resistance from the o-ring and the metal on metal...even with a decent application of grease. I'm not 100% satisfied they are fully seated but but c-clips did seem to snap in and engage with something. A good tug on the fittings and they don't seem to budge. Do these look fully engaged? I'm going to try and lash together a boost leak testing setup as I really don't want to button everything back up and have something pop off the first time I hit full boost.
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