gojozoom

Hi all, I got all my brake disks replaced recently and after only 3 weeks the inboard section started rusting. I know it's only surface rust but it's kinda annoying and totally ruins that clean/mint look that I'm going for. I know I can easily remove it with a wire brush but I'm sure it'll come back again pretty soon. Is there a safe heat-resistant product/paint out there I could use to sort this out for the long run? Perhaps a heat-resistant rust converter? Thank you for your advice.

Thanks, I bought those products, ended up with powder coating the wheels jetblack. @WYZEUP that beast of yours look amazing.

Thank you for the suggestions - I'll go ahead and restore the factory ones, we'll see if a graphite paint would make that touch too. @Olaf I never heard of this product but it sounds like it's gonna work a lot better then the toiletbrush on a powerdrill that I used before

Much appreciated, thanks. I think it's 410mm but aftermarket companies don't actually share their inside diameter - that makes it kinda difficult to find the right thing. I might stick to a nice E46 wheel design then... Style 207 (stock) is my least favorite and I feel it doesn't match the 130i at all - it's also a nightmare to clean.

Hi all, I've been searching the forums for more info on this, but couldn't find good answers. I made the mistake of just trusting a well-known website, provided my rego and it came up with a list of wheel options. I chose a 17" BGW Rampage set with Pirellis, and they were sent to an installer... Well, the front calipers rub on the wheels so they can't be installed. Thankfully I didn't have to pay for this clusterfxxx, but I was told that there is absolutely no way to tell if a set of wheels will rub or not. So he suggested I just keep trying them one-by-one hoping for the best... Is that true? Do I HAVE to go with BMW wheels to avoid this? Even then, how do I tell? Any help is much appreciated Thank you! Dan

The holidays slowed things down + delay with coming to an agreement with the dealer + the transmission guy having a long line of cars to fix before mine = 5 months

Quick update on this; after months of waiting and liaising with the dealer the trans has been replaced and the torque-converter rebuilt... Thank god for the warranty - ended up around $4600... The culprit (as discussed before) that silly oil cooler that fails and lets water into the trans which corrodes everything... Kinda silly design if you ask me as the trans itself is pretty much bulletproof.

+1 I wouldn't stop at a slap though - screwing it up this badly with those chrome dots... This one should have a Kia badge...

Still waiting for an update from the dealer but your comments make me think if a full service + heat exchanger replacement would sort this out?

Well, they found glycol in the oil so this is gonna be a swap or a rebuild. That explains why this otherwise mint car was traded in... The dealer is setting things up, I'll update this thread as I go...

That's good news, thanks for confirming that. Fingers crossed.

Hi guys, I thought I'd share my little journey with my faulty GM auto transmission (in my 2007 BMW 130i LCI) so that anyone having similar issues might take away something from it. The symptoms: a "phasing" vibration at lower RPM (below 2000) under load (uphill). It's to do with the torque converter delamination. There are 3 stages to fixing it: 1) Glycol test to make sure the sealants and gaskets are fine and there is no water or antifreeze in your oil - this only costs only $100, so it's totally worth it. If you skip this and just go for a full service/rebuild your trans issues can come back in a year, as the electronic and mechanic components will keep getting corroded by water. I'm getting this done today - I hope it comes back "negative". 2) Full transmission service (oil change, filter, and optionally anti-shudder additive). These GMs need this done every 80K kms or so, but most people don't even think about trans service when it comes to general maintenance. Mine has 127K in it and I'm sure it's never been done. In most cases this will sort out the vibration and the additive will create a nice protective layer on the components. This costs around $500. 3) Torque converter rebuild - well, obviously this is the most expensive, starting around $1500 but can easily end up in the upper 2K range. Luckily I still have warranty from the dealer and I also have 2 years mechanical warranty from Autosure, but still, fingers crossed that it won't come to that. I'll see how the glycol test goes today and I'll update this post as I go. As a side-note , as much as I love European cars, I've always had issues with auto transmissions (except my MK5 GTI I had was manual). I had an Audi A3 - mechatronic failed, then a Golf 1.4 TSI with the infamous DQ200 DSG - mechatronic and clutch pack failure, and now this. I'm pretty sure Autosure hates me now - they paid out about 7K in the last 3 years Cheers Dan

That's so true!

Hi all, Just checkin' in, I'm new to BMW but a fairly experienced VW owner (MK5 GTI, MK6 Variant). I always wanted to try one of these straight-6 engines, so I bought a 130i M-Sport (LCI) recently. I don't think I'll ever regret the switch. Volkswagens will always be people's cars where BMW is for those that like driving. So I'm pretty happy. I'm planning on a few mods, but I'll leave this lady as close to factory as possible. Nice to be here, looking forward to the wisdom, experience and advice I'll get here.