Rod

My M30 engine has caught the idle surge disease. It runs fine off idle with no apparent loss of power, however intermittently it will not idle at the correct RPM. This idle surge occurs idependent of whether the engine is hot or cold. This is a common problem with these engines, however so far I have not been able to ascertain exactly what is the cause. I have the Bently manual and I have done plenty of reading on the internet but I am none the wiser. Below are some comments and observations: Possible very minor vacuum leaks in engine oil dipstick, and in connection of hose between idle stabiliser valve and intake manifold. These possible leaks however are not significant enough to cause this idle problem. No other apparent leaks after checking of all soft components, the three small vacuum hoses have been replaced. AFM (Air Flowmeter) - have not yet checked the electrical performance, the vane however moves freely without binding. The AFM was replaced about 25000km ago with a brand new one, I have therefore assumed that this is probably working fine. Idle Air Stabiliser Valve - This checks out perfectly okay with the electrical resistance values and the rotary plug moves without binding or friction. As the tests are static I am suspicious of this item. Cold Start Injector - have not yet checked this, could be leaking? Thermo-Time Switch - When hot, the first terminal of this switch is supposed to have a resistance value with respect to earth within a range of resistances, which it does. The second terminal is supposed to have an infinite resistance with respect to earth, however has a resistance of only 138 ohms. When cold, the resistance value for the first terminal is within range, and likewise the second terminal has 0 resistance with repect to earth, as it should. Possibly this switch could be faulty, however given this I would expect that when cold there would be no idle problem. Fuel Pressure Regulator - This has no diaphragm leaks however I have not checked the actual pressure within the fuel rail. If this was faulty I would expect a continuous problem rather than an intermittent problem only upon idle. Ignition System - Distributor cap and rotor cleaned, spark plugs are new, complete condition of spark plug leads not checked. The wiring loom also appears to check out okay, the Motronic unit however could be the problem? If anyone else here has experience with this idle surge problem I would like to hear you comments and conclusions given the above. So far I have not been able to identify what I believe is the problem component. Rod

The E28 is one of the only vehicles I have owned to which I have not fiited a K&N filter. Previously I have cleaned them appoximately every 10000km. Upon fitment of the K&N onto the BMW has there been a necessity to make adjustments to compensate for the reduced pressure differential across the filter? I do not want the engine to run lean, I am not particularly keen on putting windows in the top of my pistons. Rod

Regarding oil, filters and spark plugs I have heavily biased opinions based on the experiences I have had. Spark Plugs: My E28 does not like NGK plugs, they did not last long. I get Bosch plugs from Segedins in Dominion Rd (Auckland), last time the cost was around $21 all up for 6 plugs. I have nothing agianst NGK, they are good plugs and I use them religiously for my bike, but the E28 did not like them. Engine Oil: My first choice is Motul (4100 15W-50) as it is a top quality semi-synthetic and is the optimum viscosity for my engine given the typical temperature in Auckland and the way I drive the car. There is no varnish buildup in my engine whatsoever, looks brand new inside so no requirement for any flushing agents. My second choice would be either Motul 4100 10W-40 or Castrol Magnetec 10W-40, these are second choices only because of the lower viscosity. I only use Castrol and Motul products: they exist because they make quality oils and not much else. Mobil and Valvoline get thumbs down from me because I have witnessed their oils boil in a bike engine. Oil Filters: Not all are of equal quality, I use genuine BMW oil filters for that reason. At $22 each they are not prohibitively expensive. For my Toyota I also use genuine filters, it is easy to see the quality difference compared to the likes of Fram, Ryco or Valvoline filters. Get the best filter you can find, an extra $10 for a filter is much cheaper than rebuilding an engine that was starved of oil. Air filters: Currently using a genuine BMW paper filter, considering changing to a K&N panel filter using the standard air box. Anyone who has experience here and who also has a biased opinion I would like to here about it. Rod

My E28 will not run properly on 96 unleaded, it pinks badly. The handbook states minimum octane rating 98 RON. The old 96 leaded fuel was fine though, when that disappeared I had to run it on avgas. If I went on a trip there was a limit to how far I could go as I had to carry sufficient fuel for the return journey. BMW also made lower compression engines (and hence less powerfull) for other markets and they would run fine on lower octane fuel. Each engine will have a different requirement which is dependent on design and tuning. Only way to find out for sure is to use the "buy it and try it" method, if it pinks the fuel is not suitable. Rod

I always am pretty keen when it comes to vehicles, a high percentage of my bloodstream is probably octane and toluene. bem-on, you have the federal super bumpers? Oh no, those things look hideous, you better grab the bumpers while you can. It is hard to find an E28 with straight bumpers. From what I have seen and read for the front you will need the bumper and everything below it. For the rear it is probably the bumper and brackets only? The centre sections of my bumpers are almost brand new because I bought them new awhile back. The rear right section however has a slight bend in it and the previous owner decided to revive all the exterior rubber (side door strips, bumper rubbers, spoiler, etc) with black tyre paint using a brush, real handy. The rear bumper rubber also got stretched when the bumper got bent so it does not fit very well now. Therefore my intention is to replace all the exterior rubber, front grill, etc. As I said earlier any leftover parts I would be keen on. There are a whole pile of other bits I am interested in, headlamps, window trim and too many other bits to type here. Let me know later what you guys do not use or want. Rod

Looks like you guys have beat me so I will pull out of the race. DCEIVN I hear you, it is not cool to drive half way up the island to collect something and when you arrive it is no longer there. It has happened to me many times, a right p@#$ off. I would interested in any left over parts, but the economics of getting them to Auckland after you guys are finished is questionable, let me know anyway. If anyone knows of any other cheap E28s please advise. Rod

If it is to be first come first served it looks like there is a race to Paeroa, my current intention is to drive down after work on Wednesday with a trailer. If we are to wait in line however then I am lucky number 3. Topless can make that decision, let me know tonight if possible. I am in Auckland. My intention would also be to strip some parts off for my 535iA, namely bumpers and exterior trim, and a whole pile of other parts, probably the same parts that everybody else wants. It is always a shame to see vehicles with good parts being crushed when they could have been restored or sacrificed to improve other peoples rides. Rod

I am also very keen on this vehicle, is it still available? I can collect it from you by Saturday morning. I would like to know beforehand that I can definitely take it, so that I do not drive to Paeroa for nothing. Is it towable(drivshaft removed?) or do I need a trailer? Rod

I use the following in my E28 535iA: Engine(M30 3430cc): Motul 4100 15W-50 Transmission(ZF 4HP22E Auto): Castrol Transmax M Power Steering: Castrol Transmax M Differential(LSD): Motul 90PA I change the engine oil and filter every 7000km. The remaining oils I change every year or approximately every 15000-20000km. Semi-synthetic and synthetic oils generally offer much better protection upon startup, which is when a significant amount engine wear can occur. The Motul 4100 is also available in a 10W-40 viscosity, for newer vehicles which require thinner oil. Thin oil used in older engine designs may lead to increased oil consumption which is not good for the engine, this is why I do not use thinner oils such as Castrol Magnatec which is only available in 10W-40 viscosity. If you have a newer engine design the story will be different. If you follow the recommendations in your owners manual with respect to viscosity versus ambient temperatures and you use a good oil you cannot go wrong. My M30 engine has never used a drop of oil (15W-50) but I have always been religious about changing oil. I buy oil in lots of 20L minimum and is not expensive on a per litre basis, definitely cheaper compared to the engine wearing prematurely. Basically get the best oil you can afford, when I take the tappet cover off my engine is spotless inside and that is the way it is meant to be.

in order I have had the following: 1972 HQ Holden Premier 253 V8 1986 Honda Rebel 450 bike 1987 Yamaha SRX250 bike 1982 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.4L 1988 Suzuki GSXR750 1987 E28 535iA 1992 Honda Accord 2.2i 2001 Toyota Grand Hiace 3.4L V6 Still have the Honda Rebel (undergoing a major restoration), the E28 and the Grand Hiace. During this time I have also had use of the following vehicles which belonged to family members: 1974 Mk3 Cortina 1.6L 1981 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 305 V8 1982 Mk5 Cortina Ghia 2L 1986 Landrover 110 HCPU 3.5L V8 Fastest: GSXR750 (fully worked engine, was just like riding a two stroke) Best handling: Landrover (no bull! also had lots of Edelbrock goodies and would do 90MPH all day, that is until the crank snapped) Most fun: HQ Premier (it could do 90MPH before it started moving) Best girl magnet: Honda Rebel Worst: Mirage (gutless, worst POS I have ever driven) Next: Landrover again, however next time re-powered with SB Chev as the modified 3.5L was pretty thirsty, best was 12MPG but usually <10MPG. A cheap E28 for a parts hack would not be a bad idea either.

The NZ distribtor for K&N filters is: PIONEER AUTO PARTS 278 Church Street, Penrose, Auckland Ph (09)634-4115 Fax (09)634-6499 Cain was not wrong with the location. I have not been in there for awhile, however they used to deal directly with the public and their prices were good. They also apear to now have branches in Palmerston North and Christchurch: PIONEER AUTO PARTS: Palmerston North 696 Tremaine Ave, Palmerston North Ph (06)356-1717 Fax (06)356-1758 PIONEER AUTO PARTS: Christchurch 12 Mowbray St Christchurch Ph (03)366-5625 Fax (03)379-6814 The aCourts directory (www.acourt.co.nz) is always useful to find this type of imformation. The K&N website (www.kandn.com) also has plenty of useful information, including the calculations required to select a suitable filter.

Definitely a nice set of wheels. Recently I put a new set of Pirelli P7000 on my E28, $250 each from Herb Morgan Tyres in Onehunga. It was their last set however they appear to be able to provide a good deal on most tyres. Size is 235/45-17, the ride is a bit harsh at low speeds on uneven tarseal, however the suspension as it is a bit tired. See how it rides/handles after a suspension upgrade. These new tyres provide good grip wet or dry, with the E28 tall gearing (auto) they have not let go, yet.

Not familair with the battery location in the e30, however note the following thought: If the battery is located in the engine bay and should the choice be made to use a solenoid, consider the requirement of an alternative method to open the bonnet if the battery dies. Chances are that when the battery packs up it will be dark, windy and raining. The car may not be at home either. Given that by this time the missus (or missus to be) would most likely be highly amused (=totally pissed off) regarding the lack of electricty, so laying under the car and getting covered in black filth attempting to release the bonnet is not a viable option. Best then that the alternative method does not require any illumination or any fiddly tools that could get lost on the side of the road (=down drains, etc), and does not require one to become a contortionist. Personally I would stick with some type of lever mechanism as it will weigh less, and will have fewer modes of failure. A lever fabricated from aluminium with an offset design to clear the speaker grill would not be difficult to manufacture at home. This could then be polished and anodised, both of which are inexpensive. Attention should be focused on designing a lever mechanism that is not prone to vibration (use some type of soft bushing: nylon, polyamide, etc) if is to be manufactured from metal. Nothing worse than an anoying rattle. Consider also that most unlubricated metal to metal surfaces will gall, causing wear (I generally open the bonnet every few days for a visual check), most plastics do not suffer this phenomenon. The design of the lever also should not cause passenger injury due to hard driving (no points awarded if the missus's stockings get ripped). These thoughts appear to complicated, however it is not difficult. Happy designing.