brad91
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Everything posted by brad91
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But i want the height adjustability that goes with having a coilover rear. I dont think the seperate spring shock can adjust height? Got a message back from the D2 coilovers i posted up and they said theirs requires no welding?:S American E30's are the same as jap and euro spec ones arent they? D2 would probably be the better brand as the others are made in taiwan or something like that haha. How do you strengthen up the rear shock mount? Can you just plate it with thicker steel?
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lol SHHH we like to think they are mountains It will only get 3rd party fire and theft insurance. No full comp on this. I have another daily with coilovers aswell and never have any problems. Although being AWD it makes it a bit hard to drift lol. Hence why im playing with my beema Really wanted to get away from the standard coil setup. Wanted to get dampening and height adjustability as my daily and race car both have them and i find coilovers awesome to drive on. Just not sure about the seperate spring and coil setup lol. The car currently is so soft in the suspension i get body roll going out my driveway. Im hoping to get it firm enough i can 3 wheel it out of my driveway. Does anyone have any experience with the seperate spring shock coilover systems like the one i was looking at?
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Coilovers arent legal here unless you have the threads welded which i dont really want to do as i cant ever make it lower once i have more points haha. That being said mates of mine get done for being too low but never for having coilovers but i suppose if you get the wrong cop you will get in trouble for it. Can you adjust height with a seperate spring and shock? It looks like the springs have something on the bottom of them? And would a seperate spring and shock rear end be fine for drifting/mountain runs? Had a read on a few sights about megasquirts so might purchase one of those soon. And hopefully the ITB's arent sold as he had a coupe people looking at them apparently and hasnt messaged me back today :S
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2nd kit doesnt require welding. Well it does but for $80 i think it was on top of the buy it now price he does it for you then sends them out ready to bolt in. What needs to be welded and how hard is it to do?
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D2-RACING-R...sQ5fAccessories Just found these ^^^ while searching for the ones i want. Doesnt say if they need any welding to fit but they look really good (not sure about 6kg spring rates though :S). What needs to be welded on on these sort of things if they require welding? apparently its something on the front near the hub? And these are the ones i can get for like $1100 delivered with camber tops AND whatever needs to be welded on welded on here in AUS. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/COILOVERS-BMW-Z3-E3...=item19c05267af Only problem i can see is the rear looks like it is still seperate spring & shock which im assuming will limit how low i can go? Planning on making my car 101ishmm lol. Legal height is 100mm so i only want to be JUST over or atleast look like its over lol
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Yea i think i will. Want to order some adjustable coilovers this weekend aswell. Is there anywhere that there is a step by step guide to building and installing a megasquirt? I found one website which goes into detail about what you need and then has like 2 steps in building and installing with no pictures or anything lol. Whats a good model that i can unplug my ecu and plug the megasquirt ecu straight in? They do make those dont they?
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Will this megasquirt system work? With the way the AUS dollar is to the USD currently id snap one of these up in an instant if i could lol. Could this system run the car fine? And what function would the ecu need to run 6 seperate coils at a later date? I see it says it has 4 coil on plug sparks or 8 wasted spark. Dont know what it means by wasted spark though
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yea fair enough guys. Might buy them and keep them for a rainy day lol. Then i can get the ecu at the same time and get it all running properly. Wil my b20 head work on a stroker motor? As i will get that ported for the moment and that should be fine to run with the stock ecu shouldnt it? And what cam would you suggest running? Ive heard the b23 cam works? Although b23 is from the older motor and mine is a 89 facelift model so would it still work? Then ill look into getting the 2.7 block and giving it a freshen up and dropping my head on. That sound like a better idea? OR should i, do the head, buy an ecu, fit ITB's and run a b20 with ITB's? Which would make more power/usable power/response/cheaper?
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how do i make it thirstier? lol. The head will be getting a full port and polish when the work is done? My mates an engine reconditioner so ive conned him into doing it for me lol. If ITB's go on the head will be done before they go on. Other than that im not sure what i should do. Without pulling the engine out of the car (head off is fine) what mods should i do for cheap to give me the most power? I really like the idea of ITB's even if they sit there a while and i get a few other parts to go with it. But yea the head will be done, i will get a bigger coil pack, better plugs/new plugs, better leads at the same time as the ITB's go on. Just not the ecu as i dont have $1000 for an ecu :S unless the plug and play ones are cheaper than that?
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Sorry man i wasnt have a go at you or anything. I honestly can see where you are coming from. But from what i have read every other ITB setup for beemas are like $3000. I thought $300 was dirt cheap which is why i wanted them. Even if i wasnt to run them currently. Would i be better off just going to a larger throttle body? I can get those off ebay for like $120 or something like that
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haha no way id so use a XXXX box! It is for performance. I may leave the ITB's off for the moment and start building myself a complete motor to drop in with it. Something like the 2.7 stroker motor then once thats built up drop the whole lot in at once. My plan is to make someone around 200hp or more hopefully at the wheels. I just wanted it so it runs for now and i will play with it as i go. If i change the ecu and ITB's at the same time i will have endless trouble figuring out whats wrong etc. If i can make it run with ITB's and the factory ecu then change things as i go atleast i can troubleshoot a lot easier right? And the main reason for going ITB's first and not ecu first is $300 for ITB's WITH the manifold to suit a m20 motor is stupid cheap imo. So yea, what shape should i look at making the plenum? I have a sheet of 1.5mm alloy to work with is the other problem. Would be crazy hard to bend it and do crazy curves etc.
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ok so i think im gona shell out the cash for these soon. When i build the airbox does it have to be any special shape or anything like that? or can i just fabricate a square box with an opening in one end?
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lol i know they are uber cheap which is half the reason i want them lol. That and ITB's are awesome. So what will i need to make these run with the standard ecu? Even if it doesnt give me a power gain. Just read that you can get a TPS/rpm thingy that converts a signal and you hook it into the afm meter to make it run?? confused me a bit but i think i got it. No idea how it works though lol. on a swift using standard ecu with custom plenum over ITB's http://members.iinet.net.au/~rospen/projects/quadgti.asp ^^Could that work?^^ Here is another custom plenum with better photos once again going on a swift http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtopic....f=7&t=18276 Could a plenum like that work, bolt the afm to the plenum inlet and away i go?? or not that simple? lol
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im stuck with an NA motor for another 12 months and want something off tap to drive around in for that time as im sick of driving my tow ute everywhere as i cant drive the fc lol. So there is no way i can cheaply set them up? The ITB's with the 323 motor and m20 custom manifold is only costing me $500. If i can get out of it under $1000 or $1500 at worst thats fine. I really really want that sound and plan to make some pretty nuts power out of it. Is there anywhere i can find a step by step guide to running ITB's? Was thinking about just getting it so it runs now for the sound and over the next couple months getting the ecu, tuning it up and making some decent power.
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would this plug and play setup work? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-...4b6ee0b10866ff1 Or would i need to go to the megasquirt complete? such as the ones in the following link http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...4b6ee0b10866ff1 If someone could link back the exact one i would need that would be amazing. Computer systems are not my strong point haha. Basicly i want to get it so it will run with the ITB's then worry about ecu and massive power later on if possible. Or buy the ITB's and get everything so i can do it all in one hit although i dont want to spend months before i can drive my car lol.
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so is a wideband oxygen sensor something that stays in the car or just gets used for tuning? Also what is a megasquirt worth and how hard are they to install? Ive read a couple videos saying they plug straight into your current loom if running motronic? And moreso where can i get one? lol. I cant find them anywhere on ebay or here in aus. Being rb26 ITB's i got told i could run the origional chamber instead of trumpets and run my AFM off the front of the plenum chamber? (it doesnt come with the plenum but was thinking i could tig something up at work here) until i can afford a MS2 and then i can go to open trumpets one day later on? Would the old jetronic ignition be worse to run ITB's on or better? As for $500 i get the m20b23 motor, loom & ecu aswell for any parts etc i need
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Its a dead stock motor currently. I can organise injectors and other stuff as i go along. I already have a decent seat of headers and exhaust system to go with it. What sort of injectors should i run? How do you go about tuning the stock ecu? Can it be done? And what do you need to tune? obviously air/fuel mix but do you tune it through the ecu or by adjusting the TB's or a bit of both? Really dont know a lot about it but ive seen them on a beema before and they sound amazing AND give it a fair bit more power lol.
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Well for $500 i get a m20b23 engine which i was planning on using the cam out of, i get a b25 remapped ecu from a drift car that was dismantled for a 1j (dont know if that would work with my b20), the manifold to suit, the rb26 ITB's, and anything else he can find laying around to suit e30. Would it be overly hard to set up? Im planning on a 2.7 stroker build one day aswell when i can find the parts cheap enough. Sourced a 2.7 block for $700 and just going to put my head on it. But yea is it worth it? I really want to do it as it would be awesomly unique for someone my age to be driving around here and i really want the power so i can drift it.
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Hey guys. Been a while since ive been on here as i picked myself up a new drift car and didnt need 3 but ive decided i want to keep building this. Found a guy here in aus who has a set of rb26 ITB's with a custom manifold to suit m20 for $350!!! What would i need to run these? Is there any way i could run them off a factory ecu and what extra power could i see from them? Partially want to run them just so i can have ITB's and be different from all the other p platers around here with a milo tin exhaust and pod filter lol. How much work is involved in running ITB's? Can i tee all the vacuum lines together and run to one point? and what do i do with the AFM?:S That part really has me confused. I love the sound of ITB's but if i had to could i run an air box around them and put the AFM at the inlet to the air box? Would lose the ITB sound but still retain the power gain wouldnt i? Cheers Brad
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can you convert e30 to wheel studs??? Im chasing some longer bolts if they make them so i can run about a 20mm spacer lol
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Found this while surfind the net. How would he have done this? Pretty cool and might be cheaper than ITB's? http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1259029 might have to scroll down the page a bit to get to it.
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Where do you get the chip? And how much did it set you back? And when you say tuned can you actually tune the standard ecu's in these? I dont know anywhere to get it tuned around here so was hoping it would run with the standard ecu? Oh and also what is different with the intake manifold? Or is it just the throttle body? As i can get one off an old falcon apparently thats supposadly 5mm larger than a b25 one and probably half the price haha. They want $200 for the intake and $200 for the throttle body itself over here. Falcon one would be like $15 from the wreckers haha
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will it keep the wheels spinning in 2nd, 3rd and maybe 4th gear if i am holding it siodeways?> And what ecu are you running?
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so would that be 180 atws? If its 180 at the wheels im really liking the stroker motor idea and may have ot take a day off work next week to ensure i get the motor haha. Would go this saturday but i think i will be attempting to break my fc again lol.
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OK awesome. Hmm just got offered a swap for a mx5 :S dont really want to get rid of the beema but mx5 with my 400hp rotor in it would be fun as. Then just drop an ls1 into the fc :S Think im gona stick with the beema. Much more manly car lol. And i love 4 doors. I think i better go get this motor quickly so i can get all slight thoughts about swapping out of my head lol. On that link you posted it says dont expect much more than 180bhp with the b27 bottom and b20 head. I thought it would only make around 130? Or is the 180 with heap work etc? or at the flywheel?