Jump to content

WarNox

Members
  • Content Count

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by WarNox


  1. George Stock (NZ-wide) sells new Stabilus items for a lot cheaper than BMW. I think I paid $80 for two instead of $118 each for "BMW" stamped Stabilus replacements. Mind you this is for an E24, which are generally more expensive for everything. I can now use my bonnet as a catapult!

    George Stock = $69+gst each


  2. yeah the manual says not to let it sit. and 30sec to idle high seems a bit long. mine does a quick jump to about 2000rpm and drops straight down to 1000, then gradually (matter of secs) drops to its normal 700ish idle. maybe your icv is dirty, well it probably is if you never cleaned it lol google: e36 icv diy and you should get a diy on how to clean it.


  3. i've finally got around to doing this and researching it all has got me confused. first of all i've decided that the dealer here is too expensive.

    I have an e36 320i, so the same as a 325. From what model bmw's would the shifters fit straight in? without bending.

    The options are:

    z3 1.9 - #25 11 1 434 148 (29% shorter)

    z4 3.0 early production - #25-11-7-516-160

    E46 325Xi - #BW-25-11-1-434-148 (same part number as the z3)

    M-Roadster (MZ-3) - OEM-25-11-2-228-384

    The z3 1.9L is $100 at the dealer, z4 3.0 is $180+gst. and both of the above numbers are apparently old.

    Some places say the mZ-3 will not fit straight in, and others say it would, anyone know this for sure?

    I'd like to get the z4 3.0 but its a lot more expensive than the z3 1.9, what is so different in the two?

    I rang European Auto Spares / Europart, and they seem to think they need the type of tranny I have on my car, and wanted to charge me $180 for a 2nd hand part.

    Could someone please try to explain as much as possible!

    Thanks in advance!!!


  4. To put in my e36, tried everywhere and can't find one 2nd hand. New are way too much, about $200. Or if anyone has any other cheap ideas on getting another short shift please let me know.

    I'd also take a 1.9L Z3 shifter.

    Thanks


  5. Hey!

    Ok I bought a mint set of 4 door 1997 leather seats, perfect condition. But there is one problem, my car has no fold down seats in the rear, so to fit these in i'd need to do some welding which I cannot be bothered with.

    The seats are black leather, and the rear back is made up of 4 parts, the seatbelts are built into the seat.

    I am wanting to swap those 4 bits for a one piece back. I'd be better if the seat belts weren't built into the seat.

    They would need to be in pretty good condition to match up with the rest of the set that I am keeping.

    Thanks for your help.

    I live in Auckland if you would like to come see them. Please contact me on 027 4 698 781.

    Thank you

    Gregor


  6. ok so i finally got to see the damage. ill attach a picture, this is with the dashboard removed. so before i put the new one in ill have to get this fixed. from what i can see i should just get it welded from the outside, the part you can see in the picture. i don't see any other way of getting it done.

    do you think if i go to any given panel beater they will be able to just weld it and it won't break again very soon? im thinking about going somewhere tomorrow morning, it should be an interesting drive.

    ---

    edit: its not letting me upload pictures for some reason, but ill try again later.


  7. thanks for your reply will. yeah it is the bit you have circled. but if it is welded inside, and the weld has come loose wouldn't it have fully snapped. like this its semi-stable still. is there any way to get access inside there? do i have to take the door off?


  8. hey everyone, happy new year!

    just as i got back from my trip the stupid passenger door decided to stuff up. if i open it a little bit its fine, but as soon as it goes past the first bump, that keeps it open it clicks, same with the second bump and same when closing it. in the picture you can see the bit that is stuffed up, its moved all the way to the left while its ment to be held firmly in the middle. anyone got any idea how to remove this? i've looked around but cannot find anything.

    thanks for your help

    post-658-1167769888_thumb.jpg


  9. cool, thanks for the replies guys.

    yeah i will do it all myself. i like buying oem parts, i trust it more. sure my chassis number is : FJ01537

    the light isn't on, but i know the rotors are warped as the car shakes when braking at higher speed. i think when i bought the car the light was on (back when i didnt know anything about e36's), and the seller said they'll sort it out, i have the feeling they just pulled the bulb out of the cluster, as the two screws that hold it in weren't there when i got the car.

    and yeah ill buy the sensors, but they aren't too expenisve so its ok.


  10. my brakes are gone and the rotors are pretty f....., at the dealership it just over $600 ($100 per rotor + $100 per a set of pads) just for the parts. But all those parts will be OEM and i know will work properly.

    Is this a smart thing to do or can I get something better for $600? I read the brake upgrade thread but have not rung them or anything yet. And with non-oem parts, will the brake pad wear sensors work?

    thanks

    Gregor

×
×
  • Create New...